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Old 11-27-2005, 09:18 AM   #16
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Torch Down Instructions Needed - DIY


I am glad it worked out, and now, I bet you can see why none of us were willing to tell you how to do it in an internet forum...too much to forget, potential liability too high.

Can you post any pics?

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Old 11-27-2005, 11:21 AM   #17
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Torch Down Instructions Needed - DIY


Thanks Aaron! Yes, it's quite a bit of work and understand the liability issues. Like most things, a little guidance goes a long ways.

Here's a photo of the work in progress. This is the relatively easy part where you're just rolling out and torching down the bulk of the roof. You can see the holes where the roof vents go. Those are clearly a bit more tricky, but still within the realm of the DIYer - again with some homework and understanding of the risks.
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Old 11-27-2005, 06:57 PM   #18
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Can you show me what type of vents you used, what type of perimeter metal you made for it, and why are you going against the flow of water on your left in the pic?
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Old 11-27-2005, 06:58 PM   #19
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Also, did you end up flashing the perimeter curbs cuz of the stress points?
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Old 11-27-2005, 11:26 PM   #20
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Torch Down Instructions Needed - DIY


I got over to momence a couple of weeks ago. Is your sister putting a new 1/2 second story on her house?
I'm assuming thats her house because its got a new nice looking brown roof on it.:D Nice job if thats her house.
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Old 11-28-2005, 08:50 AM   #21
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Yeah, thats her, on Washington St. I told her she was going to need more $$$ when she started the project, but you know women. Now she is stuck with a frame and sheething, a roof, and half a house of soffit and fascia. Trying tio tie in all the soffit and fascia is a major pain. All the old stuff if either rotten and has to have framing repair work or was just built like crap and we are having to fix everything. Roof was put on in the rain LOL that was a crappy day in Oct. Couple that with the fact that nobody (my brothers) shows up when there is work to be done and you have a big long process. Gonna be hard to not strip the siding to make it all come together nicely.

Ill let you know when Ill be down there next, and you should swing by for coffee.
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Old 11-29-2005, 01:26 AM   #22
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Hi Aaron - I don't have the photos of the finished roof yet, but will post a few in the next couple of days.

The vents are high hat types made for torch down roofing and they were painted with primer before adding the additional torch down material around them. No additional metal was added since it had probably 4-5" of metal all around the base. The primer was also applied to the top of the lead vent pipe cover to make sure the torchdown stuck nicely.

Regarding the appearance of the roof going agains the flow of water, the picture doesn't show this well, but just to the left of my foot is the peak of the house. In order to keep this side of house from looking flat, we added a short 18" overhang that follows the existing roof line downward. If you notice, there's an additional drain spout hole to the left as well.

In case it's not clear, the torch down goes *across* the slope of the roof, not with it. Naturally, that would fall in the stupid category if that's what you're getting at.

Regarding the stress points, I'm not sure what you're asking there. Prior to rolling out the torchdown material, I built small curbs that attached between the roof sheathing and the facia to allow a nice curb to be built. This was in line with the way the existing roof was built. Just followed the plan. Once I trimmed the excess torchdown, I finished the top off with 1 1/2" flashing that extends over the top of the torchdown and then down along the facia. Again, this was done in the same exact way as the existing roof and consistent with the way other torchdown roofs are done in this area. Additionally, I built crickets for some of the corners to make sure water was guided towards the downspount holes.

Let me know if that makes sense. Once I get a few more photos, most of what I'm explaining will be more clear. It's still raining here and we're looking good.
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Old 11-29-2005, 04:31 AM   #23
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I see (or I think I see) leading edges on the left of each section (towards you), and if the "peak" is to your left, then you roofed against water flow. I could be looking at it wrong, but that's what it looks like to me.
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Old 11-29-2005, 09:58 AM   #24
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Anywhere you have a change of direction (field to wall, field to canted curb, etc.), you have a stress point. Most modified bitumen specs call for a double layer (flashing) at the stress points.

This could be accomplished around the perimeter when you install your perimeter metal (which anchors the roof edge down to aid against blowoff) and your cover strip.
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Old 12-05-2005, 01:31 AM   #25
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Ok - Here's a couple of photos of the mostly finished work. This might give a better perspective of how the roof is laid out. The new roof doesn't look particularly pretty since it has a bit of rain and slush on it from the last few days.

I drew in a red line at the peak of the roof so you can see the direction change. I didn't put in a double layer of torchdown at the peak because the existing roof didn't have one.
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Old 12-05-2005, 06:01 AM   #26
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When you flash everything, it should be nice.
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Old 12-13-2005, 06:18 AM   #27
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Hi Aaron - I thought I was done and not sure what you mean by flashing everything. When looking at the photos I provided, do you see additional work needed? Is the flashing you're referring to cosmetic or additional waterproofing?

I'm guessing you're referring to the vents. They were installed by nailing first to the roof sheathing, then initially sealed with the main rows of torchdown, then additionally sealed with patches cut to extend about 6" all around and sealed to the main row below.

There is a small area where the vent meets the patch that could collect a smidgen of water, but I can't imagine that the water could sneak under the torchdown.

I could be way off base on your comments though.

Thoughts?
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Old 12-13-2005, 08:32 PM   #28
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Im probably just not seeing things clearly.
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Old 05-12-2006, 09:58 PM   #29
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Torch Down Instructions Needed - DIY


Mike,
can you please email me with a contact number so I can get some information from you before starting my roof. snocrazy719@yahoo.com
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Old 05-13-2006, 08:45 AM   #30
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A lot of DIY types are using the peel and stick modifieds now like Flinlastic and Polyglass. GAF has one called Liberty. We have a little of these types but prefer EPDM for anything serious. Torch downs are very rare, or not done at all anymore at least around here.
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