New here, 1st post but need a quick answer. I am having a monierlifetile concrete barrel tile roof being put on my new house and think my framer may have caused an issue for the roofer. We are short 2 squares of tile so waiting to finish a couple of small sections including this one pictured.
My issue is in this first picture all the water that comes down this valley flashing will be directed under the tile once installed. The underlayment I think was well done, it is TAMKO Metal roof/Tile self adhesive underlayment. They have also used the monier raised battens that look like they have "checkers" every 18 inches or so so the batten allows water and air under it. Now I know tile roofs all get water under them and the underlayment is the true water barrier, but should this flashing purposely force the water under the tiles?
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This part of the roof had to be added to fix another mistake the foundation subs made on where the wall was suppose to be.
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Judging by the way they have the battens installed, it appears that the valley flashing WILL overlap the shingles at the end of the valley and not vice versa(this is good). Where the battens are on top of the flashing is where the shingle will overlap the valley which is the proper installation procedure. You just want to be sure that the bottom of the valley is open to shed water OVER the shingles or you will have problems(again, it appears that they are doing this correctly but pictures can be deceiving and I can't tell how much of the flashing is overlapping from this angle). Discuss your concerns with your contractor before they finish to make sure you are all on the same page.
The valley is canted. Water will jump the seam. Not only that, but the water will stop traveling down the valley at each batten and travel across the roof.
Take a bucket of water to the window and pour it into the valley and watch where it goes. It will also go the same way when the tiles cover it.
Just like this one.......
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Frank
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Let's try another. Ugly looking pic because I had to drastically resize it. The battens were properly cut back, but these tiles were cut to a point closing the valley water flow which sent all the water to the sides.
Both examples leaked bad.
The pix were donated to me.
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Frank
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As laid out, the valley won't even dump onto the lower tiles.
As for getting wet underneath, it might get moist, but not too wet. As a rule, they stay dry on the underside.
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Frank
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I'll get a few more pictures from better angles to get a better view for you guys. I really like what my roofer has told me so far and his techniques. It is just right now he is away doing another job while we wait for the final materials to be delivered.
It's not the framers problem. If your roofer has any problem flashing that area, keeping the water on top of the lower tile, he needs to re think his profession.
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here's a link to pdf on how to properly install valley on tile roofs. I think your roofer did a pretty good job. The only issue may be the width of the valley...
The roofer will probably slide the under valley tile higher, or slide another valley piece underneath current on...he will definitely not leave it going right under the tile. (hopefully )
The use of battens is just making another surface to set the tile on. To do it properly, the valley can set on top of the battens which would make it level with the surface the tile sit on.
It has to raise up over the lower tiles NO MATTER what else happens.
That valley needs to be reset. It can be put in after the tiles pass that 'corner'. The roof material ALWAYS passes the valley exit BEFORE the valley goes in to prevent issues.
If the valley was going to sit on the plywood and lift over the tiles, the battens would have to be, and are supposed to be cut off outside the valley. No in it.
Then, the outer valley edges are required to be turned up the height of the battens and a 1'2" to 1" lip turned back 'into' the valley to keep the water on the metal.
Disregard all the previous comments about the valley looking OK, as is.
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Frank
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Did anybody else even notice the valley sits on one batten, raising the center, then is pressed down under the other battens creating a nice slope to the outside edge of it? With no return lip either.
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Frank
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I re-read the 1st post and the battens are elevated which is good. Water can run under them rather than pooling above them. This detail also allows for ventilation under the tiles which will extend the life of the underlayment.
I prefer tinner666's method for valleys, but I went to the Monier website and looked at the installation manual.
I assumed moderate climate since the OP did not give their location.
With the type valley used (there are several options), the battens should overlay the metal, but stop short of the outer most "rib". Also, the underlayment should be over the outside of the valley metal which is the reason there is no hem at the edge. This can be done by stripping in the sides of the valley.
Monier also advises using a lead "soaker" at the bottom of this valley detail with high profile tile. This could allow the valley to work as installed. We don't know what the roofer's intentions are.
The only thing that I would change with the info given is to cut the battens back and seal the edge of the valley. I'd prefer a different valley detail, but the one you have can be made to work. Let us know how it plays out.
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