Is there anything I could apply to drywall/plaster to determine if roof is leaking?
Ok here are my initial observations.
You have ridge vent. Do you have an intake at the soffits to allow fresh air to flow inside?
At the back left piutched roof, what is the purpose of that pipe? If it is a soil pipe flashing it needs a lead boot. If it is a furnace or hot water heater exhaust pipe, then it needs an extension. Either way it's not properly flashed.
The siding is aluminum, meaning the previous roofers likely reused the roof to walls tep flashing (aka baby tins). I say that because alot of times on aluminum siding the siding can become damaged to remvoe and repalce the tins.
The back dormer photograph shows a gutter, it does not looka s if you have a gutter flashing. furthermore it looks as if the gutter brackets are spaced about 3' apart. They should be spaced no more than 3', but preferrably the spacing should line up with the rafter spacing. The flashing is important because water and ice can back up into the building and/or rott the fascia board.
The flat roof doesn't look that bad, but I am cusrious what they did to join the roof to the dormer wall That flimsy apron flashing is useless, and you can tell they re-used the old flashing. This is why on any job I do I ALWAYS replace the flashings. I am also curious how far they brought the modified bitumen membrane up and underneath the shingles. I also do not think they used any sort of metal perimiter flashing at the edge of the flat roof, meaning the job's not finished.
The chimney flashing, well I am not at all a fan of straight flashing. I prefer to step my flashing with the mortar joint. I am also curious why they came up so high. I wonder did they cut into the brick and insert the flashing into the brick or is that flashing simply a surface mounted and caulked flashing. If it's a surface mounted flashing and does not tuck into the brick you WILL have problems with the flashing if not already.
One other thing unrelated to the roof, get a metal hood for the chimney so birds and rodents don't climb inside. It will also help with keeping most water out of the itnerior of the chimney.
Your chimney cap, the mortar piped atop the brick, is a hack job. That mortar will crack in a few years if not already, and those cracks will allow moisture into the brick. The mositure will rott the brick and the mortar. At this time my suggestion is either break all that mortar up off the top and apply a custom poured in place concrete chimney cap. Or else a custom fabricated metal chimney cap. The 3rd alternative is to get a good elastomeric coating and apply multiple liberal coats to the top of the cap over all that mortar to keep it from cracking and make it water proof.
You mentioned to me in an Email that you have the timberland warranty. I am assuming GAF Timberline? If so you may want to look into that warranty, you may have paid extra for the workmanship guarantee. GAF *might* be on the line to fix the roof leaks.
Inspect the entire roof, look for any exposed nails and apply a generous portion of polyurethane caulk. Use your fingers (maybe wear a glove) and work the caulk into the shingle so it sticks permanently.
__________________
-Grumpy
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Sometimes the savings that comes from doing it yourself can be blown away with one mistake.
The information found in this post is not to be considered legal advice. All information should be considered relative, not specific. Never attempt any repairs you are not comfortable with. Always maintain safety! The author of this post takes no responsibility for any losses that occur. Use at your own risk.
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