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Old 03-18-2010, 02:29 PM   #1
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Steel roof, styro underneath


I am installing a new steel roof and I am putting 1 1/2 celfort200 underneath the new roof. I was going to go over the styro with 1x4's but now I have thought of using the CelfortŪ 200/Cel-LokŪ System. Basically it is slots in the styro to accommodate steel channels so I could fasten the roof to that. Is it OK to do this?

The benefits would be the roof would be right on the styrofoam and could be walked on anywhere. If I put 1x4's on top I could only walk where the 1x4's are.

The pitch is low 1-1/2 12 and I will be using butyl tape and stitch screws at the seams. Also a ridge vent at the peak.

I am a drywall/insulation contractor in Canada but have never done a steel roof before. Existing vacation home roof was only 2x6 construction with R20 ff and I am trying to avoid ice damming with more insulation and also help on heating for winter long weekends.

Any other advice would be appreciated.

Pics included
Attached Thumbnails
Steel roof, styro underneath-2007-winter-12-dec-01-0064.jpg   Steel roof, styro underneath-2007-winter-12-dec-01-0065.jpg   Steel roof, styro underneath-view-lake.jpg   Steel roof, styro underneath-2007-winter-12-dec-01-0062.jpg   Steel roof, styro underneath-2007-winter-12-dec-01-0063.jpg  

Steel roof, styro underneath-2007-winter-12-dec-01-0066.jpg  

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Old 03-18-2010, 02:35 PM   #2
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Steel roof, styro underneath


I added a few more pics to show construction of roof and ice damming over bathroom (heated all winter)
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Steel roof, styro underneath-2006-winter-03-mar-06-0260.jpg   Steel roof, styro underneath-2009-summer-05-may-25-0039.jpg   Steel roof, styro underneath-2009-summer-06-jun-28-0042.jpg  

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Old 03-18-2010, 07:09 PM   #3
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Steel roof, styro underneath


Have you considered Spray Foam Roofing for this project?
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Old 03-18-2010, 07:17 PM   #4
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Steel roof, styro underneath


i could live there
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Old 03-18-2010, 09:29 PM   #5
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I would consider installing a cold roof over top of the existing.
Build the cold roof using 2 x 8 on edge and add another R20 batt insullation with a good 2" of air space above it.
Cross strap and then add your metal roof. Lots of eave venting with ridge venting as well.
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Old 03-18-2010, 10:04 PM   #6
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I already have the steel roof and styrofoam. The only thing I am wanting to know is if I can screw the roof into steel strips flush with the foam compared to 1x4's on top of the foam, which way would be better?
Any help on this methlod would be great.

AaronB,,, I use spray foam in joist end cavities all the time but i don't like it for wall/ceiling cavities plus I am 120 miles from Winnipeg and it would be expensive and would also have to restructure.

jlhaslip,,, I would have liked to build up the whole roof as you suggest, I was thinking of doing that with 7 1/4" nascor joists. I am an expert at ventilation and that would be a great way to do it but I only have so long to work on it and this way is considerably cheaper but not as good ventilation. I like the idea of a solid layer of styrofaom also. We are quite dry in the cottage so not much moist air gets into the attic. Also, The vapor barrier is done quite well on the inside lessesing the need for good ventilation.

tpolk,,, I just may be living there someday (retire in 15 years) but the wife said no-way...
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Old 03-19-2010, 10:03 AM   #7
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You wouldn't have to re-structure... Spray Polyurethane Foam Roofing is one of the lightest roofing systems available.
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Old 03-19-2010, 10:12 AM   #8
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Anybody else put a steel roof over styrofoam?
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Old 03-21-2010, 05:43 PM   #9
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Hi!

Why mess with the existing roof!

Remove the ridge piece at start and replace at finish of following:
Place the insulation on the outside laying directly onto the existing roof covering - stick insulation down and add occassional mechanical fixings (say 5 fixings per full board) directly into existing roof covering and then redress/felt roof - I would consider using one of the liquid plastic products, if you do a www search you will find some that are 'breatheable and you will not get the problem with carbunkles etc. developing. Systems ususally come with a 15 year or 25 year guarantee - I go for the 15 for cost saving and at the end of 15 years all that is required to extend the guarantee another ten years is another top coat of the liquid plastic (all build-up material being applied with a roller!)

Depends what your funds are like!

Only other comment, I would have chosen a lot thicker insulation material - double up on what you have got and you will gain a considerable reduction to your heat loss in winter and a corresponding loss of heat gains comin in during the high summer months.

I do realise that you possibly already have insulation of some form above the ceiling and that you may be topping up, which would explain the 11/2"!

Regards from the UK!
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Old 03-21-2010, 06:17 PM   #10
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From my files: http://danperkinsroof.com/1108_JCL_Perkins_A.pdf

Be safe, Gary
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Old 03-21-2010, 09:58 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Your way looks fantastic but I am on a bit of a budget.

I am doing something quite close except not as good "cold" ventilation. I bought a very expensive ridge vent ($240.00/10' piece) as the cheaper one did not look like it would work. Your way is certainly the best for keeping the roof cold but what about the moisture from inside the structure getting in the rafter space?

My existing roof, R20, with a ridge vent does ventilate as it does melt the snow at the ridge. I only get ice damming at the areas that are heated year round so I am confident a solid layer of 1 1/2 is going to help a lot. If i shovel the snow around the perimeter I don't get any ice damming.

I chose the size for ease as I will be running a single 2x4 on the flat around the perimeter. Do you think I could screw the roof right to steel strips or should I put 1x4's on top as originally planned?

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