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Standing Seam on Mfd Home. Venting?

1K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  Windows on Wash 
#1 ·
Amazed at the knowledge on this site!

We have a manufactured home built in 2003. The roof is shot and I hope to replace it with a standing seam roof this summer.

My question is how to deal with venting? I've done some research and there are mixed opinions whether a mfd home like mine even benefits from venting since there is no attic space.

We live in Oregon in the Willamette Valley so we have a pretty temperate climate. Lots of rain but little snow or ice.

I would like to minimize roof penetrations so I would like to leave off the roof vents. Should I go with a ridge vent? Is it even necessary?

I plan on keeping the OSB underlayer and shingle/tarper and laying out 1x furring strips for the metal to sit on. Will that 1" air gap be sufficient for the metal?

Thoughts or advice is appreciated. Thanks!
 
#2 ·
You would be best to contact the manufacturer of the home. They would be the best ones to tell you which course to take. The roof should not be shot, unless whoever did the roofing did a shoddy job to begin with.

Post pictures of the roof and if able to get into the attic space, pictures from inside there also.
 
#3 ·
You would be best to contact the manufacturer of the home. They would be the best ones to tell you which course to take. The roof should not be shot, unless whoever did the roofing did a shoddy job to begin with.

Post pictures of the roof and if able to get into the attic space, pictures from inside there also.
No access to attic space since it is just the 2x6 roof. Manufacturer can't help, they've gone bankrupt and frankly I wouldn't trust there advice. You are correct, it shouldn't need a roof but to avoid a long, angry story it does.
 
#5 ·
I'm just going to assume the answer is yes. If not, ignore the rest of this.

Venting honestly will more than likely do no good since most didn't account for it in the factory.
If you pull a sheet of decking off and see baffles then you are in luck. But most of the time there is none so unless you want to strip the decking, install proper baffles, cut in soffit or eave vents and ridge vent then it will do no good.

The combination of low slope, no ventilation and IDGAF installation guts their longevity.
 
#6 ·
I will try to get photos up here soon. There are soffit vents although most of the cavity is blocked with insulation. There are about 8 roof vents on each side of the house which is a double wide and yes, vaulted ceiling with no interior "attic" access at all.

We have had this home since new. We purchased it with 6" eave extension...our first indication of problems didn't manifest until it was out of warranty. We discovered eave fascia paint bubbling. When they extended the roof out they didn't run the shingles out far enough over the gutter and didn't put in appropriate flashing. As a result, water runs off the edge of the shingles, curls back under the roof and runs down behind the gutters and fascia. We also developed leaks around the exterior vents...I discovered that the 12x12 vents had holes cut for them that were about 13x14 so the vent is only nailed on on one side and the vent is settling into the attic space, allowing water to pool and run in. Ugly deal, horrible craftsmanship. Lesson learned and now I need to move on!
 
#9 ·
Johnny,

Got the pics by email but you got them here already.

Any venting you do here would be considered above deck venting. That attic is not currently vented (i.e. no intake air or exhaust).

If you don't have any condensation issues in the home, the venting is not going to solve any additional issues.

You can go with an above deck vent by running some furring on the roof and creating a vent space above but that is usually more sought after approach if you are worried about heat gain from the roof in a much hotter climate.

If you strip the roof (I always think that is the better approach) you can put the metal right down on the deck if it is in good shape (you will still need some underlayment/slip layer between the wood and the new metal).

I don't see any real benefit in above deck venting in this case as it pertains to the heat gain. Oregon is mild and you aren't in Arizona so no benefit there.

If you have moisture issues inside the home, you can vent the roof but because they did not incorporate any venting between the rafter bays (i.e. vent chutes) you are not going to accomplish much unless you pull off all the sheathing and install some ventilation pathways.

Have I completely talked you in circles yet....?
 
#10 ·
No, I get exactly what you are saying and it was pretty much what I was thinking.

No condensation issues in the home except for mildew on the windows but I think that is a cause of the cheap vinyl windows and poor sealing around the window. I've been slowly fixing that problem by caulking the huge gaps around the window exterior flanges.

While there is an attempt at venting at the soffit by using perforated Hardi-Plank, the rafter bay is not open to the roof vents (blocked by blown-in) so any air movement would be stopped anyway.

I know I will have to replace at least some of the underlayer decking because of rot. I'm thinking by overlaying the roof with furring strips at least I would have a little air space under the SS metal.

I've been told that there is almost always a gap at the peak where the two halves of mfd homes are bolted together. I guess I could always install a ridge vent there if condensation ever became a concern?

Thanks for the input
 
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