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Old 08-28-2009, 03:18 PM   #1
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soffit and gable ventilation


i am gettinng ready to install a new roof (new york state). my last roof was a gaf architect installed in 1984 over the original one which was installed in 1962. never had ridge venting. have gable venting on both ends of the 2 story colonial with a full attic - never finished off and never used for anything. one contractor said i have to install soffit vents in addition to ridge venting. another said that my gable vents are adequate and that i don't need soffit venting in addition to the ridge vents. both of these contractors are well known in the area and have good reputations. i just spent a lot of money repairing and rehanging my copper gutters and downspouts on an all brick home. if i go with soffit venting do i have to detach my gutters to use airvent vented drip edge? i called airvent, and they said yes, but i read on the forum where someone said it's not absolutely necessary. is smart vent by dci or the edge vent by airvent a good alternative?

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Old 08-28-2009, 11:59 PM   #2
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soffit and gable ventilation


Although I am a heavy proponent of other Air Vent products, I have found the Smart Vent from DCI Products Inc., to fit my purpose with long term positive results so far, extending back since about 2001, so unless something out of the ordinary changes my perception, I will stick with what has beed proven functional for me so far.

Conditions in your home may have changed since 1984, such as living styles, time spent in the home versus out working, modifications made to the exterior or to the building envelope itself, added vapor barriers and/or insulation, upgraded more energy efficient but more air tight siding and/or windows installed, etc...

For those reasons and potential others unknown, what worked fine in 1984 "May" not work just as well in 2009.

Also, were the orignal shingles composed of rag felt as the interior reinforcement matting, or had it already been swithed to the periods recycled paper matting substrate for bonding the upper and lower asphaltic surfaces together?

The only real true answer lies in what the manufacturer requires for a total of Balanced NFVA for the entire attic floor square footage calculation. If not Balanced, then the amount of either Intake or Exhaust needs to be doubled and utilize the 1/150 formula versus the 1/300 formula, which are Both "Minimum" Requirements necessary to meet the manufacturers ventilation specifications.

I highly doubt that the Gable Vents alone would provide the sufficient NFVA required.

So, that brings us to the inclusion of new Intake and Exhaust Ventilation Systems, which by popular acceptance would also necessitate the closure of the Gable Vent openings to eliminate the theorized Short-Circuiting of the ventilation flowage.

Unless the gutter is hung by T-Hangers and straps, the retrofit with Smart Vent is no major obstacle.

Even if the gutters are supported with that style of hanging system, careful individual removal and re-installment can be provided successfully for your application.

Ed

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Old 08-29-2009, 12:09 AM   #3
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soffit and gable ventilation


Others such as Ed can answer your questions with authority. I can give you info I have found explaining wind-washing with gable vents: http://books.google.com/books?id=Z8a...#PRA1-PA604,M1

Be safe, G
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Old 08-29-2009, 12:31 AM   #4
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soffit and gable ventilation


Good Resource GBR.....

Do you utilize the same book for the majority of your references, or do you have book-marks for a multitude of them?

Quote:
Unfortunately, the 1/300 ratio is less than 1/2 square inch per square footof attic area and is Inadequate.

The BOCA Official response to this inadequacy is that the code deals with "Minimums".

Ed
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Old 08-31-2009, 04:39 PM   #5
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soffit and gable ventilation


Thanks for the replies. I do not have hangers/straps, so I can get estimates for Pro-Flow Vented Drip Edge, The Edge Vent and Smart Vent.
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Old 09-01-2009, 05:19 PM   #6
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Thanks Ed, I didn't notice it was for 300#, lol. I use that one mainly for against mixed or gable vents. I did some research, most building departments use the 300#, I agree is weak. You need to get on that committee and set them straight... Here are some of my favorites, feel free to use or lose: http://www.ronhungarter.com/black_mold.html http://www.blocktheheat.com/ventproblems.htm http://www.oikos.com/esb/30/atticvent.html
http://buildingscienceinc.com/resour...entilation.pdf Plus the core-a-vent, Air Vent, and roll roofing. Then a group on attic insulation, cathedrals, vapor barriers, and framing roofs, nothing on roofing, I leave that to the roofers... lol.

Be safe, G
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Old 09-01-2009, 08:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Thanks Ed, I didn't notice it was for 300#, lol. I use that one mainly for against mixed or gable vents. I did some research, most building departments use the 300#, I agree is weak. You need to get on that committee and set them straight... Here are some of my favorites, feel free to use or lose: http://www.ronhungarter.com/black_mold.html http://www.blocktheheat.com/ventproblems.htm http://www.oikos.com/esb/30/atticvent.html
http://buildingscienceinc.com/resour...entilation.pdf Plus the core-a-vent, Air Vent, and roll roofing. Then a group on attic insulation, cathedrals, vapor barriers, and framing roofs, nothing on roofing, I leave that to the roofers... lol.

Be safe, G

I already have and refernce all of those, except for the Block The Heat link, so thanks for adding to my link collection, LOL.

Ed

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