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DTS419 08-29-2013 06:41 AM

Sloped siding J-channel on deck
I have a deck on the rear of my house, and it appears that the deck is slightly out of level, maybe 1/2" in 12'. Right now I have vinyl siding, and I had to shim and manipulate the deck board against the house and the J-channel to try to get the J-channel that the siding starts in to be parallel to the siding lines.

My question is, if I replace the vinyl siding and start with the first piece parallel to the J-channel so that it looks right, can the little bit of slope be made up in tiny adjustments as the siding works up the wall, or is any little slope in the first piece of siding going to transfer all the way to the top of the wall? The deck was recently re-built and this is the only indication that it is not perfectly level so I would have to have to tear the deck apart just to square off the J-channel. Are there any other tricks to make up errors like this with the J-channel so that it appears parallel with the siding?

If I replace the siding, I would be replacing it with either vinyl or fiber-cement. Thanks.

joecaption 08-29-2013 06:57 AM

Can you post a picture?
Just want to make sure I totally understand what your talking about before posting.
PS the decking boards should not have been installed tight to the side of the house if that's what you did.

DTS419 08-29-2013 07:23 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I attached a rough sketch of the issue. I exaggerated the slope in the deck to show the gap. I think the problem is that the ledger board has too much crown, because the level bubble and J-channel is perfect on the left side of the door and the deck is perfect everywhere else. Again I would hate to have to take it all apart just for this one issue.
Not sure what you mean about the deck board against the house, but it is flashed correctly according to the sketch. The deck board under the J-channel against the house is that one that I had to shim at the far right end to try to lift the J-channel to reduce the gap.

joecaption 08-29-2013 08:00 AM

Sure hope that deck was not really built the way it's shown in that drawing.
The top surface of the deck needed to be at least 4" and in some areas it's required to be 6" below any door opening so water does not get in under the doors threshold.
The siding has to be level all the way from outside corner to outside corner.
The J moulding also should be as level as possible from end to end.
The way I would do this is to use aluminum color matched coil stock attached directly to the wall at least 6" wide and only nailed at the top. Then attach my J moulding in a straight line.
That way the water will stay off the sheathing and none of the sheathing will be exposed.
For a DIY if you did not have any coil stock you could use some vinyl or aluminum preformed fascia and just cut off the bend.

DTS419 08-29-2013 08:24 AM

The ledger was flashed properly into the door sill. This deck was actually built with no flashing in 1983 the exact same way and until the brick moulding around the door started to rot, no water ever got in beneath the door in 30 years. It is fine the way it is built.

Do not use aluminum or metal flashing with pressure treated wood because the dissimilar metal will react with the copper in the ACQ treatment.

Anyway, back to correcting the appearance of the J-channel. Any idea on how to make up for this slight gap?

joecaption 08-29-2013 07:36 PM

The aluminum would never make contact with the pressure treated wood, it's just to flash the wall and hide the gap.

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