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Old 07-05-2011, 09:36 PM   #1
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Slanting trusses??


Hi, I had my dad help me with sheathing the roof. Ugh! He didnt space out the top rafters 24"oc but the bottom he did? So, as you can imagine, they are slightly slanted. I'm loading it with concrete tile. HELP!!!!! will it hold?

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Old 07-05-2011, 09:59 PM   #2
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Slanting trusses??


Call the manufacturer name stamped on the trusses or on the bill. Many will only allow Rise/50 or 5/12 with 30' span = 5X15= 75"/50=1-1/2" out of plumb, with a maximum limit of 50 mm: http://www.ntf.net.au/keep-em-straight

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Old 07-05-2011, 11:20 PM   #3
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Slanting trusses??


I gather the sheathing is already on - so correcting would be quite a bit of work? It must not have been out all that far if you were able to install the sheathing without extra cutting and fitting? Are the end/gable trusses plumb?
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Old 07-06-2011, 06:33 AM   #4
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Slanting trusses??


At 1200 # per 100 sq. ft., you need more trusses. 16" oc. And I sure hope your sheathing is really sheathing! 1x8's or wider!
Those that use plywood instead need 2 layers of 3/4" for a reasonably solid deck for concrete tile. But then, if there's a leak, the resulting wood damage can lead to huge repair bills later.

Start your corrections now before it's too late! It'll be good enough for shingles as you described it though.
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:31 PM   #5
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Slanting trusses??


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Call the manufacturer name stamped on the trusses or on the bill. Many will only allow Rise/50 or 5/12 with 30' span = 5X15= 75"/50=1-1/2" out of plumb, with a maximum limit of 50 mm: http://www.ntf.net.au/keep-em-straight

Gary
Thank you! Im having a structual engineer look at them. He will be here next week some time.
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:39 PM   #6
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Slanting trusses??


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At 1200 # per 100 sq. ft., you need more trusses. 16" oc. And I sure hope your sheathing is really sheathing! 1x8's or wider!
Those that use plywood instead need 2 layers of 3/4" for a reasonably solid deck for concrete tile. But then, if there's a leak, the resulting wood damage can lead to huge repair bills later.

Start your corrections now before it's too late! It'll be good enough for shingles as you described it though.
Thank you! the trusses are 2x4's. I have 5/8" OSB as sheathing. although many of the trusses have 2x4x10 attached to them and the center trusses are half vaulted and those are doubled up. I hope that's enough because they installed the underlayment already, which is synthetic, and they used 1"staples with caps! after I said not too! Ugh!!!!!
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:42 PM   #7
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Slanting trusses??


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I gather the sheathing is already on - so correcting would be quite a bit of work? It must not have been out all that far if you were able to install the sheathing without extra cutting and fitting? Are the end/gable trusses plumb?
Thank you! Yes, the sheathing is already installed. The gable ends seem fairly plumb but not great!
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:46 PM   #8
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Slanting trusses??


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Thank you! the trusses are 2x4's. I have 5/8" OSB as sheathing. although many of the trusses have 2x4x10 attached to them and the center trusses are half vaulted and those are doubled up. I hope that's enough because they installed the underlayment already, which is synthetic, and they used 1"staples with caps! after I said not too! Ugh!!!!!
Forgot to mention, thaton the half vaulted trusses, we made a truss wall. In other words we nailed 2 layers of 5/8" osb to them on 24"oc. That spans 23', in the center of the house.
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Old 07-10-2011, 06:46 PM   #9
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Slanting trusses??


You did at least go to a lighter material for the roof itself?
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:35 AM   #10
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Slanting trusses??


I spoke to an architect client today and described your roof. He said you better stick with shingles or metal, to forget the concrete tile.

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