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scibby 04-01-2013 07:07 PM

Simple Gable Design ?
 
Hey I just joined and am posting a question.
Im in central jersey, and I wanna build a shed, and I have been looking on line for what I was hoping would be a simple gable design with no bottom chord, and maybe just a collar tie with gussets.
I'm not sure on the slope as yet maybe 12/4, but my shed is going to be 12' wide x 20 long, I was thinking bird mouth, and tail cut. Its 100% DIY, so its 4x4 every 4 ' into the ground, with a 6' wide door (not on the gable end), the only thing that is stumping me is a simple gable thats keeps the rafters out of my way. Can you help me Obwan, your my only hope. Thanks.

OK so 2x8 ridge (does it have to be continous, can it be spliced ?), 2x6 on 24" sloped simpon type connectors with a lower version of a collar tie, every other rafter, and instead of glue and screw use 5/8 bolts, use a higher slope right ?

jagans 04-01-2013 07:41 PM

You can do this with a tied rafter design. Use 2 x 6 Rafters, 24 inches on center. Locate a 2 x 6 across (Like a collar tie, but lower) every other rafter, one third of the way up slope. bolt ends with 5/8 Bolts with large flat washers Tighten till washers just cut into wood. Install 2 x 8 Ridge Pole and use sloped joist hangers up top. Slope at 5.5 to 6/12 or greater.

Good Luck!

Air tools help a lot with the bolts! :thumbsup:

Daniel Holzman 04-01-2013 07:45 PM

You can also build a gable with no rafter ties and no collar ties if you use a ridge beam instead of a ridge board. A ridge beam for a 20 foot long shed might require use of LVL type lumber. Typically a lumber yard capable of supplying such a beam might be willing to size it for you based on local code and snow loading conditions. The ridge beam requires adequate support, and typically metal brackets to attach the rafters to the ridge beam. Brackets should be available from the same lumber yard that furnishes the beam.

GBrackins 04-01-2013 07:47 PM

what he said .... as always jagans is spot on

jagans 04-01-2013 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daniel Holzman (Post 1150443)
You can also build a gable with no rafter ties and no collar ties if you use a ridge beam instead of a ridge board. A ridge beam for a 20 foot long shed might require use of LVL type lumber. Typically a lumber yard capable of supplying such a beam might be willing to size it for you based on local code and snow loading conditions. The ridge beam requires adequate support, and typically metal brackets to attach the rafters to the ridge beam. Brackets should be available from the same lumber yard that furnishes the beam.

Hi Daniel,

I have the deepest respect for your responses, and just wanted to clarify. Do you mean you can achieve a moment connection where the rafters attach to the ridge beam?

Thank You.

GBrackins 04-01-2013 09:48 PM

When using a ridge beam I will typically connect opposing rafters with a 2x collar tie installed against the bottom side of the ridge beam and face nailed to the sides of the opposing rafters. this prevents any uplift on the ridge and keeps everything nicely in place. no hangers needed for the rafter-to-beam connection.

ridge beams and rafter ties are two-ways of preventing rafter thrust from pushing out the tops of load bearing walls.

jagans 04-01-2013 11:18 PM

Hi Gary,

It is of absolute importance where the rafter tie goes. Many people, (Including my Brother in law) confuse the purpose of a collar beam, which is usually used to provide a ceiling in an attic with a rafter tie. Big difference.

A brace placed right up under a ridge board has almost no ability to prevent outward thrust of the sidewalls due to its placement. Its all about physics and leverage.

Have a good Evening.

GBrackins 04-01-2013 11:29 PM

I hear ya. I've had that discussion with many a builder that did not understand the difference in a collar tie and a rafter tie and thought a collar tie did what a rafter tie does. Strange how some terms are used incorrectly.

I agree, collar ties placed in the upper 1/3 of the attic space have almost no resistance to thrust, but are great for uplift resistance. You gotta have a ridge beam or rafter ties (in the lower 1/3 of the attic space) or you won't like the results. "What do you mean? the roof is suppose to saddle and the tops of wall are suppose to push out aren't they?"

I was talking about using collar ties with the ridge beam in lieu of hangers. Builders I work with prefer doing stuff with wood and nails so I try to accomodate them. Many ways of accomplishing the job correctly, just have to make sure to pick one that works for the results you're trying to obtain.

Have a great week.


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