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Old 09-27-2008, 09:09 PM   #1
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shingle Vent II


Hi Ed, I have poor attic ventilation and had an ice dam last winter. The ridge vent is a rolled mesh and soffits are continuous metal. Unfortunately many of the baffles over the knee wall are blocked by foam insulation that I can't remove for reasons too long to get into here. I tried to get more ventilation a year ago by adding one gable vent low on one end of the three gable attic to act as additional air inflow but it didn't help any. After the ice dam I added a power exhaust vent at the end of the other gable but it only helps lower the attic temp several degrees if it runs all day long (plus it vibrates like crazy in the winter when the dampers are cold). Will putting a better free air flow ridge vent like Shingle Vent II possibly help? I tested the ridge for air flow with a smoke pencil once and it didn't appear to have any air flow out of the attic even in the area where the soffits aren't blocked. Is ShingleVent II a difference maker? Thanks...

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Old 09-27-2008, 11:49 PM   #2
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shingle Vent II


I know this question is for Ed, 1: Rolled ridgevent is junk,replace with Cobra or Shinglevent2 2: Somehow get airflow at soffits 3:Plug your gablevents,as they shortcircuit air flow. Just my 2-cents .Ed will explain it in his own special way-Take care

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Old 09-28-2008, 11:37 AM   #3
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shingle Vent II


Even without proper Intake, the differences between the rolled mesh vent product you have on now, (Probably Cobra Vent or Benjamin Opydyke Roll Vent), will result in additional air flowage due to the External Wind Deflecting Baffle on both the Shingle Vent II or the Cobra Snow Country, which appears to be a near duplicate knock off of the Shingle Vent II Ridge Vent.

If you have the desire, even if you do not need a complete brand new roof, you can also add in a Mid-Roof Intake Ventilation Solution by removing 2-3 rows of shingles horizontally across both sides of the roof and install the Smart Vent manufactured by DCI Products, Inc.

This will require that placement occurs just slightly above the blocked baffles in the knee wall.

Remove the rows of shingles.

Determine where the Smart Vent will line up at.

Cut the 1" slot continuously from end to end, omitting the last 12" on each gable/rake end side edge.

Place and nail the Smart Vent into position, with the bottom thicker profiled edge aligning with where the bottom edge of the next course of shingles will be installed.

Install a row of Grace Ice and Water Shield on top of the Smart Vent, (1/2 Row unless you remove an additional 3 rows of shingles, or a full row if you do remove 7 full rows of shingles.

Install a row of Starter Strip shingles on top of the Smart Vent, all the way across.

Install the replacement shingles, starting with the butt edge just hanging over the bottom thicker butt end of the Smart Vent by only about 1/4" as a drip edge.

Continue with the additional courses of shingles until they tie into where they were removed.

The top row will need special attention, since the lowest remaining row needs the nails to be carefuly puled out, without removing the shingles, and then renailed properly when tied in together.

Ed
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Old 09-28-2008, 12:38 PM   #4
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shingle Vent II


Ed,what about the gable vents?
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Old 09-28-2008, 07:10 PM   #5
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shingle Vent II


Thanks Ed. I've thought about the Smart Vent product but think it would probably be very visible and unsightly on the front of a steep cape roof. Would you disagree?

I'm glad you think SV II will help a lot...sort of figured that might help on its own.


Should I block up the one open gable vent or do you think that may help some intake air?

Thanks..
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:39 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by needhamhome View Post
Thanks Ed. I've thought about the Smart Vent product but think it would probably be very visible and unsightly on the front of a steep cape roof. Would you disagree?

I'm glad you think SV II will help a lot...sort of figured that might help on its own.


Should I block up the one open gable vent or do you think that may help some intake air?

Thanks..
The Mid-Roof Application of the Smart Vent is barely noticeable from the street. But, if you are directly below the roof and your line of sight is on the same plane as the roof pitch, you wil notice it.

But, it works.

I prefer passive ventilation to mechanically operated noisy energy inefficient gable vents. If you do install the Mid-Roof Smart Vent, block off the gable vents.

Ed
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Old 09-29-2008, 08:51 PM   #7
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shingle Vent II


Oh, my other question on Smart Vent other than looks was whether it would work when the roof is covered with snow? I don't mind the attic overheating when there is no snow...also what is the concern about an ice damn developing over the possibly colder kneewall and seeping through smart vent or rain being blown in?
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:37 PM   #8
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shingle Vent II


I have the Smart Vent on a 3/12 at both the eave on one side and the mid-roof on the other side, which just went through our harshest winter in the past 10 years or so, as far as continuing duration of snow remaining on roofs.

Ed
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Old 09-29-2008, 10:04 PM   #9
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shingle Vent II


so did the vent work when it was covered with snow - wouldn't it be blocked? I can understand warm air melts the snow by the ridge but how does air get through the snow over the mid-roof vent?
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Old 09-29-2008, 11:20 PM   #10
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It worked. I didn't get any photos of that one this past winter, because I would have had to pull out my ladder and climb up there, which I for sure will do this next year, just to verify its function.

I could barely see it from the ground though, but it was clear of snow at the base of the vent.

Possibly, there is enough heat that eminates "Outward" from the vent, due to the plywood being cut for the 1" slot and as the flowage of warmer air glides by the vent on its main route to the ridge vent, that allowed the snow to melt there.

I am just speculationg, but you bring up a very interesting point to consider, which I will inquire about.

Thanks.

Ed

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