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Old 04-08-2012, 11:05 PM   #16
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sheathing blocks instead of h-clips, help needed


Hi everyone, Can anyone post a photo or two of "blocking roof sheathing". I can't seam to find a picture of exactly what it looks like. Thank you

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Old 04-09-2012, 12:22 AM   #17
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sheathing blocks instead of h-clips, help needed


Just install the 2x4 with the 3-1/2" side tight and centered under the sheathing joint. No adhesive. The panels should be gaped for expansion, especially if OSB. 1/8- 1/4" gap. Read the printing on the attic side of the sheathing. Use nails (3") through the rafter/truss into the blocks. H-clips OR blocks, not both.

Gary
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:06 AM   #18
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sheathing blocks instead of h-clips, help needed


Gary, thank s for the clarification. The sheathing that were replaced do not have any gaps, so blocking the panels will only resolve one aspect of the missing h-clips (adding support to the sheathing between truss spans) but will do nothing about the expansion and contraction issue, right? This is what I was referring to when I mentioned using both h-clips and blocking. The roofer did use some h-clips on the replaced sheathing but on all of it. So were are talking about maybe 15 sheets of replaced sheathing and of that maybe 10 sheets do not have h-clips. If there are some 4 x 8 sheets of sheathing that have h-clips and some sheets that have blocking and some sheets have h-clips on one side and blocking on the other side, is that going to be ok?





Just install the 2x4 with the 3-1/2" side tight and centered under the sheathing joint. No adhesive. The panels should be gaped for expansion, especially if OSB. 1/8- 1/4" gap. Read the printing on the attic side of the sheathing. Use nails (3") through the rafter/truss into the blocks. H-clips OR blocks, not both.

Gary
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:39 AM   #19
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sheathing blocks instead of h-clips, help needed


First; check the ink stamp in the attic on the sheathing for the span rating and thickness. If 24/0, it requires; clips or blocking, one or the other, not both. Here is how to read it and what to look for; http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/...s/14043_75.htm

As to “If there are some 4 x 8 sheets of sheathing that have h-clips and some sheets that have blocking and some sheets have h-clips on one side and blocking on the other side, is that going to be ok?”----- This is acceptable.

We can go from there.

Gary
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Old 04-09-2012, 02:49 PM   #20
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sheathing blocks instead of h-clips, help needed


We rarely put h clips between osb or plywood when doing repairs instead we install 2x4's between the truss's at the seams. If we are pulling off all old decking and installing new then we will install h chips with OSB.

If you have a parelled vault the 2x4 blocks may prevent air flow so in these cases you want to run h clips.

A framer turned roofer from hail I know goes inside homes with buckly plywood and puts 2x4's between all seams.

We've done hundreds of roofs with Plywood and OSB without h clips and no 2x4's.

IMO, OSB has better qualities than plywood. LP Smartside a siding product made to compete with James Hardi is OSB based and NOT plywood based.

The only plywood I like is 5/8in 5 ply.

At best the roofer may have to tear off and replace just the area were h clips were used. It would be better IMO to have him put some 2x4's under the seams...

BTW,
We've torn off a lot of roofs were the plywood or OSB without h clips was not gapped and 20-30 years later there's been no signs of issue. When we put OSB over spaced plank boards we don't gap them. Keep in mind the idea of redecking is to make a solid deck surface.

Last edited by dougger222; 04-09-2012 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:03 PM   #21
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sheathing blocks instead of h-clips, help needed


dougger222, thanks for your response. I have a few questions.

What is a parelled vault?

You said, "A framer turned roofer from hail I know goes inside homes with buckly plywood and puts 2x4's between all seams"

I believe you mean "buckled" plywood, right. If that is correct, what good would it be, to block seams that have already buckled.. The blocking only adds support to the roof sheathing and does nothing for buckling caused by expansion and contraction.

I also realize that sometimes a roofer can do all kinds of things wrong and the home owner may not have problems. But, if your paying for a proper roof replacement and it isn't done properly, the question should not be, will problems develop down the road. The only question should be, does the roofer tear off and correct the problems(as if they never happened) or does the roofer reduce his price by a dollar amount equal to what the home owner can hire an expert to correct the problems, plus 20% for his (home owner's) aggravation. Just my opinion.

Last edited by roof52; 04-09-2012 at 09:14 PM.
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:03 PM   #22
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sheathing blocks instead of h-clips, help needed


Quote:
Originally Posted by roof52 View Post
dougger222, thanks for your response. I have a few questions.

What is a parelled vault?
It's a roof system that the trusses are the same as the top and the bottom. Cathederal may be another term. With this system you need to have open air flow of an inch or two under the decking to allow air to move from soffit to ridge vent. With this system you have to install ridge vent and can't do turtle or louvered vents. Putting 2x4's with this truss system will block proper air flow.

You said, "A framer turned roofer from hail I know goes inside homes with buckly plywood and puts 2x4's between all seams"

I believe you mean "buckled" plywood, right. If that is correct, what good would it be, to block seams that have already buckled.. The blocking only adds support to the roof sheathing and does nothing for buckling caused by expansion and contraction.
Buckly, sort of roofers term I guess, but yes. Fastening 2x4's between the seams will lay them flat again, it works. Of course you also will have to shoot a few fasteners from the top of the decking too. Back when we stapled down shingles we shot 1in wide crown staples. On homes with buckly plywood we would press down to make the seam even and shoot staples along it, sort of like stiches on the wound. This system work good.

I also realize that sometimes a roofer can do all kinds of things wrong and the home owner may not have problems. But, if your paying for a proper roof replacement and it isn't done properly, the question should not be, will problems develop down the road. The only question should be, does the roofer tear off and correct the problems(as if they never happened) or does the roofer reduce his price by a dollar amount equal to what the home owner can hire an expert to correct the problems, plus 20% for his (home owner's) aggravation. Just my opinion.
IMO,
The lack of h-clips in one little area of your roof won't do much harm. I'd be more nervous with 3/8in plywood 24in O/C!!! Never seen that before, been on thousands and thousands of roofs... To put a dollar amount on it? I don't know, a couple hundred.

Last year ago I inspected the roof on a house for a buyer who's roof we just did. From the ground you could see buckly spots all over it. In the attic we found plywood and no h clips. The original builder hired a framer to go in the attic and run 2x4's on the really bad spot. Keep in mind the house was almost 20 years old and sold for about a million. The house we roofed that she moved out of was HUGE. She downsized...
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:23 AM   #23
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sheathing blocks instead of h-clips, help needed


I looked at the areas without h-clips and there are nails coming through the sheathing near the seams. I can't fit the 2 x 4 blocks up against the sheathing because the nails are in the way. I'm not sure what these nails are holding, but if I cut them off flush to fit in the 2x 4, I'm concerned something will loosen up. What do you recommend? Also, should the blocks be toenailed or fastened straight in from the opposite side of the truss? With screws or nails?

Last edited by roof52; 04-10-2012 at 09:30 AM.
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:08 AM   #24
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sheathing blocks instead of h-clips, help needed


Cut the nails that are protruding through the bottom of the roof with a
Saw-Z-All (Metal-blade) or a "Multi-Tool" - the ones that are in the way
of any blocking.
Toe-nail or screw the blocking in -
Install the blocking "every-other", rafter-bay -
Than, go back and fill in the remaining "bays".

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Old 04-12-2012, 11:28 AM   #25
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sheathing blocks instead of h-clips, help needed


I want to thank you all for your great assistance with all my roofing questions.

I'm pretty much set on the blocking issue, there's just one last think I'm not sure on regarding fastening the blocks to the trusses. Is there any advantage to using screws instead of nails? If screws are used should pre-drill holes first? I do not want any wood splitting on the trusses. And is there any need to nail into the blocks from the shingle side of the roof.

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Old 04-13-2012, 12:38 AM   #26
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sheathing blocks instead of h-clips, help needed


Screw or nail, they only give support to the joints. If in a high wind area, I wouldn't "cut the nails" as the shingle above could pull away because now the fasteners are not even to minimum code. I'd get after the installer....

gary

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