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Old 08-04-2007, 02:46 PM   #16
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Sagging roof


You work fast Malcolm.

That is what I was saying. Once all of the weight of the shingles are removed, then it usually does not take much effort to lift the bowed rafters back into position to enable a proper sistering job.

I like the added strength with the bolts. We usually just nail 16's through the sistered rafter and into the crippled one.

Ed

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Old 08-04-2007, 03:00 PM   #17
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You work fast Malcolm.

That is what I was saying. Once all of the weight of the shingles are removed, then it usually does not take much effort to lift the bowed rafters back into position to enable a proper sistering job.

I like the added strength with the bolts. We usually just nail 16's through the sistered rafter and into the crippled one.

Ed

Yeah, I have a couple of friends helping me out today. I was just going to leave the sag in, but I'm glad I read this thread. My roof will look much nicer in the end now.
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Old 08-04-2007, 03:05 PM   #18
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Get back to work with your friends now and quit telling them you have to go downstairs to check out the DIYchatroom.com forum for additional advice

They are wise to your tricks now Malcolm.

Ed
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Old 08-04-2007, 10:12 PM   #19
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ED,when I build a knee wall,It would include a plate top & bottom for the whole distance,that was the point of a kneewall vs. justpushing up rafters and nailingf 2x4s to the rafter and then to the corresponding floor/ceiling joist(to spread the load evenly),so no problems lower,I`m not sure where the misunderstanding came in--I didn`t like the idea of sistering a few and having the weight transfer down/or damage the rafter further because it didn`t go fully from 1 support point to the other
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Old 08-05-2007, 10:40 AM   #20
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Here is what I did. I placed a knee wall half way down the rafters. It goes under all three rafters.
John,

As you can see from what Malcolm did for his repair, not all people, homeowners or contractors think alike.

I suggested laying a plate spanning the entire attic floor to transfer the weight load from the jacking up of the rafters prior to sistering in new rafters to the bowed ones.

Not everyone is going to do the maximum work to eliminate future potential reoccurrences of the same problem. In some scenarios, good enough is good enough, and without being able to personally see the structure, I have to leave the ultimate decision to the person who has first hand knowledge about the existing problem needing corrective actions taken.

Ed
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Old 08-05-2007, 10:22 PM   #21
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the point was that the term knee wall constitutes that very thing!,a bottom plate,a cap plate and stud members to join the two---aknee wall is a knee wall is a kneewall is a kneewall
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Old 11-26-2010, 12:13 AM   #22
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My 2 x 4 rafters are 24" on center. They support 3 layers of shingles, a layer of cedar and a layer of pine sheathing - that's a lot of weight. So much so that it has cracked several of the rafters.
After consulting buddies of mine that each have twenty plus years of roofing experience I am going to follow their directions;

First replace floor joists from end to end (the entire span in all structural framing is key) Use nail gun and circular for this
Step 2 lay a 2x6 plate across and above the entire span of my attic floor / ceiling joists
Step 3 climb step ladder, use speed square to measure pitch of roof, set chop saw (u can use a circular or handsaw for this just make sure you measure the pitch correctly for the base plate cut) and cut base plate side of 2x6 sister rafter
Step 4 Have a friend hold base plate flush to floor (I don't need a seat cut - you might)
Grab other end of sixteen foot 2x6 climb step ladder use square to draw a line down from my 1x8 pine ridge plate, cut 2 x6 - lay sister rafter across step ladder then
Step 5 use a four foot level against cracked rafter and good rafter to inspect the difference in pitch (get a mental picture of how the good rafter looks)
Step 6 jam a kneewall sized 2x6 between new base plate (step 2) and cracked rafter to take the sagg out of the roof (check pitch with level)
Step 7 from end to end nail up the sister rafter that I just cut both sides of with the nail gun my buddy lent me.

Step 8 remove kneewall from new 2x6 rafters and put them under good 2x4's

Now it's strong enough to hold me while I ripit to the pine and install a galvanized roof in late spring

Peace out y'all
Slummy

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Old 08-27-2012, 02:02 PM   #23
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Hi,

There is some great information provided in this thread.

I have a similar Hip roof, 1920's house, old 2x4 roof rafters supporting old wood roof, with 4x8 sheets over the top and one layer of shinges. The longest span is about 13 feet on 4 rafters in the middle sections. There is some sagging but no splitting that I can see. I also have old 2x4 floor joists in the attic.

I don't see how to fix the sag and jack up the rafters with a knee wall if I don't have much support below, 2x4s floor joists and an open bedroom below. Load bearing wall in some a few areas.

Is it possible to sister 2x6's to the 13 foot rafters and live with the sag? Or is it possible to create the knee wall ro run the entire span of the floor joists and have it support the long and short roof rafters as well without sistering?

Thanks all.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:04 AM   #24
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I have a question. My house is just 1 year old and there is a depression on the south side. it looks to be about a 4 foot area. We are adding it to our 1 year list for the builder to repair, but the foreman has already started saying that they can sag a little and still meet code. Which is his standard answer for everything.

Is this a problem?
Is there an allowable limit of sagging?

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