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Old 08-05-2011, 10:00 PM   #1
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S&F - am I on the right path ?


Good evening everyone,

This is my first post on the forum. I have benefited a lot from researching online and thank everyone for their contributions and advice. Home ownership is a constant struggle

I live in Maryland in an older, smaller, cheaper house in Columbia that needs a lot of work. I'm not hearing back from multiple roofing companies, so I've decided to tackle the S&F myself (well, at least the ground floor).

The fascia board is currently 1 x 6 masonite with no additional fascia on it. It's shot, there's no wrappign it, no slapping fasci on it, it has to go.

I'm undecided whether to go with the easier PVC that doesn't need to be primed and painted but costs 30/lf, or the cheap primed pine that needs to be painted.

My notes on the subject are:
PVC - 3 times the cost. No big deal, small house, why not do the best you can with it. Only need about 70 lf for the ground floor.

PVC - has to be glued. Never deal with that before, no idea if I can trust it, if it's a major pain to clamp in place while setting up, or if I just nail the trim up and then glue the seams.

PVC - may not need additional fascia or it (it's supposed to be waterproof, can I get away with just having the fascia header ? that's the way the house is now, just masonite fascia board with no additional fascia or wrapping) .

I was going to go with aluminum versus vinyl for the soffit as well, since I read that vinly can have cold-weather brittleness issues along with expan/contraction issue.

Install plan was to:
a) remove gutters, easy enough,
b) demo out existing boards. could probably use a butter knife they're in such bad shape.
c) snap a line and check rafter ends, trim/shim if necessary so the 1x6 isn't all curvy,
d) throw up the 1 x 6 using 3" nails (or whatever's recommended for the material, PVC seems to be particular about the joinery) . of course leveling etc the whole time.
e)lay the 6" fascia on top of it. now the nail holes are covered so i should need to putty / caulk them.
f) put on the new drip edge, staple / trim nail it to sheating under the shingles
g) apply the soffit channels and soffit,
h) put the gutter back on, checking the tilt, etc. gutter screws will end up going through the fascia and into the fascia header. they're in 1x6 crappy masonie right now, so they should hold just fineon 1x6 new material
i) throwback a beer
j) stare at the second level and think long and hard about if I want to mess with that (12ft scaffolding ? arrest systems ? ) or pay for that to be done (IF I can get a dang local roofer to return my call ... seriously, is there an extreme lack of tradesmen in Maryland ? I'm ready to start calling York and Lancaster County)

Am I on the right track here ? I know there's lots of threads about S&F, I've read many of them to come up with this course of action. I hope I'm learning properly, if not please educate me.

Of course, I realize that as soon as I start the job I'll find something wrong that forces a full contingency, I'll end up 2 feet short of board, or the wrong screws, or my drill will bust on the first gutter screw

Thanks y'all.

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Old 08-06-2011, 12:05 AM   #2
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S&F - am I on the right path ?


Quote:
Originally Posted by MarylandHomeOwn View Post
Good evening everyone,

This is my first post on the forum. I have benefited a lot from researching online and thank everyone for their contributions and advice. Home ownership is a constant struggle

I live in Maryland in an older, smaller, cheaper house in Columbia that needs a lot of work. I'm not hearing back from multiple roofing companies, so I've decided to tackle the S&F myself (well, at least the ground floor).

The fascia board is currently 1 x 6 masonite with no additional fascia on it. It's shot, there's no wrappign it, no slapping fasci on it, it has to go.

I'm undecided whether to go with the easier PVC that doesn't need to be primed and painted but costs 30/lf, or the cheap primed pine that needs to be painted. everything suffers some type of corrosion, even pvc. look at old exposed pvc pipes around a pool pump that is scaling and brittle.

My notes on the subject are:
PVC - 3 times the cost. No big deal, small house, why not do the best you can with it. Only need about 70 lf for the ground floor.

PVC - has to be glued. Never deal with that before, no idea if I can trust it, if it's a major pain to clamp in place while setting up, or if I just nail the trim up and then glue the seams.

PVC - may not need additional fascia or it (it's supposed to be waterproof, can I get away with just having the fascia header ? that's the way the house is now, just masonite fascia board with no additional fascia or wrapping) .

I was going to go with aluminum versus vinyl for the soffit as well, since I read that vinly can have cold-weather brittleness issues along with expan/contraction issue. pvc becomes brittle in cold weather too

Install plan was to:
a) remove gutters, easy enough,
b) demo out existing boards. could probably use a butter knife they're in such bad shape.
c) snap a line and check rafter ends, trim/shim if necessary so the 1x6 isn't all curvy,
d) throw up the 1 x 6 using 3" nails (or whatever's recommended for the material, PVC seems to be particular about the joinery) . of course leveling etc the whole time.
e)lay the 6" fascia on top of it. now the nail holes are covered so i should need to putty / caulk them.
f) put on the new drip edge, staple / trim nail it to sheating under the shingles
g) apply the soffit channels and soffit,
h) put the gutter back on, checking the tilt, etc. gutter screws will end up going through the fascia and into the fascia header. they're in 1x6 crappy masonie right now, so they should hold just fineon 1x6 new material
i) throwback a beer
j) stare at the second level drink a few more beers and think long and hard about if I want to mess with that (12ft scaffolding ? arrest systems ? ) or pay for that to be done (IF I can get a dang local roofer to return my call ... seriously, is there an extreme lack of tradesmen in Maryland ? I'm ready to start calling York and Lancaster County)

Am I on the right track here ? I know there's lots of threads about S&F, I've read many of them to come up with this course of action. I hope I'm learning properly, if not please educate me.

Of course, I realize that as soon as I start the job I'll find something wrong that forces a full contingency, I'll end up 2 feet short of board, or the wrong screws, or my drill will bust on the first gutter screw

Thanks y'all.
thats all that i have to contribute

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Old 08-06-2011, 08:01 AM   #3
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S&F - am I on the right path ?


Ah-hah, I like that final word of advice ! Seriously though thank you. I have no experience with PVC and my house doesn't have any of it that I've found. I'll take your word that it becomes brittle as well. Perhaps wood is the best choice, I was just hoping to avoid having to acclimate, prime and paint it.

If I go with wood, my understanding is that an oil primer but a latex paint is best, reason being the oil primer seals it up against rot better, but the latex paint breathes better and will ultimately adhere better.

Although, if i go with wood, I now have to re-paint it every couple of years or I'll be right back in the same boat - true ?

Thanks again, have a great weekend !
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:09 AM   #4
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S&F - am I on the right path ?


im not saying that pvc is bad but it should have a protective coating and maintenance too. if you go with wood, i would go with the oil primer with a 100% acrylic top coat (2 coats) for its color retention and flexability properties. i believe that pvc can be painted with 100% acrylic without a primer but you should do more research on painting pvc for proper surface prep. you can do most of your priming and painting before you install your facia boards and using good products from a paint store (not box stores) can extend times between recoats.
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