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Old 06-09-2013, 08:46 PM   #16
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Roofing Underlayment


Well i started working on the valley i don't like how its coming and heres what i did from what i researched to do. Low Volume roof starter course (the stuff that comes in a roll) through the Valley, then along the eave of the high volume roof through the valley. Then i took 2 full shingles and did the same thing. My problem with this is that when i go to make my cut 2" from the valley the cut stops short because of the woven shingle along the high volume roof eave, unless you go completey over it with another shingle which doesnt seam right. Well i did that and continued up to the peak of this small roof (only six shingles to the peak) running through the valley at least 12". When i got to the peak there was about 3" of shongle left that i figured i could fold over but in doing so the shingle split right where this peak intersects the higher roof. Definately not leaving that since this must be a potential spot for leaks. Same thing with the other side. Not sure how to go about this when i reach the peak and the intersecting roof, plus when the ridge cap meets this roof it seams like it it will need to be split down the middle just to lay flat on the high roof.
Heres my next concern. At the eave from the corner it runs across (maybe 12'), then theres the small roof where the valley is, then on the other side of that small roof and bottom of the valley it continues 18" more to a corner. From that corner it runs 28" up to a higher eave with another corner that continues over to the other edge/rake of the house. The lower eave and higher eave are slightly off, after runnin a chalkline. I'm not sure of how to run the shingle along the lower eave then up to the higher eave and still keep all the shingles staight plus the valley. If i ran it with the dripedge it would definately be off. Any input wiuld be great.

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Old 06-09-2013, 09:25 PM   #17
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Pictures sure help...
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:40 PM   #18
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Yup i hear ya ill take some pics tomorrow. Just havent checked on how to upload them here yet.
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:27 PM   #19
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Heres a pic of the roof. You can see right to left how it comes across to the small roof coming out, then goes to the left a little more, then up and over.
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:34 PM   #20
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Heres a picture i found that i was going by. But with this method there wont be a shingle angled cut along that long for the last six inches down to the eave. I want the cut in the valley going all the way to the eave.
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:39 PM   #21
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The only way i see it to work out the way i want it is to stack another shingle on top of that shingle on the bottom right then continue to the right along the eave. Then the valley cut would continue down to the eave. The guy in the picture started his next shingle in the second row above the bottom right shingle.
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:49 PM   #22
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Another View.
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:33 AM   #23
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You'll want to rotate those pics, imgur.com is free to post pics and link to, works well!

I can see what you are doing however and I have seen this type of valley done, looks like it involves a lot of planning and layout, it doesn't look like it's a real simple thing for any first-time DIY'er to get right.
Someone else I'm sure will describe what you need to do to get what you want.

Unfortunately for your project I have not done that type, I prefer using heavy aluminum sheet and that's a different system than you are doing, much quicker and easy, but while I actually prefer the visual divider of the metal as a form-follows-function thing I suppose, I guess not everyone likes to see the valley.
I bought the aluminum from metalsdepot.com I don't remember the gauge but it was around .060" or
18 ga, it was definitely at the limit for sheet metal sheers to cut, and very hard to bend, it came in about 4' x 3' or 4' x2' pieces.
I went with that after laughing at what is sold as flashing or valley material these days that you can cut with a pair of paper scissors, and tear it the same as a soda pop can.





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Old 06-10-2013, 12:55 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpm6621 View Post
Another View.

Rotated for ya

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Old 06-10-2013, 05:35 AM   #25
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The first course on a closed cuy valley is woven when done properly. Im going to assume youve seen lots of houses with the cut going all the way down, as I have. To do this the installers only weave the starters, its very poor detailing and I always have to retrain guys how to do it properly.
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Old 06-10-2013, 08:38 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpm6621 View Post
Heres a pic of the roof. You can see right to left how it comes across to the small roof coming out, then goes to the left a little more, then up and over.

OK Guys, NOW do you think he should use all ice dams????

Talk about how much pictures help!
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:14 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans View Post
OK Guys, NOW do you think he should use all ice dams????

Talk about how much pictures help!
Yes they do. 30# felt would suffice just fine on the rest of that roof. Odds of having ice damming on that structure are remote. No reason for the added expense of ice/water on that.

As far as roofing that. First step is shingle the dormer just like the picture you posted. As stated above, proper way to do it is weave the starter and first course as shown in that picture. Then start shingling the main deck from the lower eave. I'm not sure what you are having issue with. That's a pretty straight-forward shingle job.
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:28 AM   #28
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FYI

Different types of asphalt felt have different weights. Here are some data on the weight of felt types per 100 square feet. There is no "30#" (30lb.) felt any longer.



There was a long time ago, but no longer. There is a huge difference in the amount of asphalt in D226 felt and the crapola they call "Shingle underlayment", That is why I always specify D226 Type 1 for shingle underlayment. I never use type 2, as it buckles way to much under shingles here.


Unrated (non-ASTM) #15 felt: 7.6 to 8.8 lbs.
ASTM D 4869 #15 felt: 8.0 to 9.7 lbs.
ASTM D 226 #15 (Type 1): 11.5 to 12. 5 lbs.
Unrated (non-ASTM) #30 felt: 15.7 to 19.9 lbs.
ASTM D 226 #30 (Type 2) felt: 26.4 to 27.3 lbs.


Even something as seemingly simple as felt has gotten complicated
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:12 PM   #29
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Well this looks totally wrong. I have never shingled a valley before but getting someone to help isant an option. The lower and upper eaves arn't parallel to each other but i got that figured out. The problem i am having is right here in this picture where the ridge caps meet the higher roof. It seams like that last row of shingles (only 1) needs to be under that last ridge cap but then the edge of the ridge cap will be exposed or if i ran that last ridge cap on top of that shingle, the next row won't cover it either. This isant permament what i show in the picture just trying to figure this out. As far as my pictures being sideways well im uploading them from my iphone and thats how they post here.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:16 PM   #30
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And how can i properly seal around this electrical pole on the edge of the roof?
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