Roof/wood shingle caulking
I had a new asphalt roof installed two years ago. It appears the roofer did not caulk between my asphalt roof shingles of my sunroom and my second story wood shingles. There is aluminum flashing installed.
I live in New England. What type of caulking should I use? I've read there are silicone, polyurethane, butyl, asphalt, etc. types. I'm interested in using a moderately priced caulk.
What should be the width of the bead? I guess the instructions would indicate whether there should be multiple beads allowing each to dry/cure before applying more to arrive at the bead size.
Is color important? To me I'm not concerned with matching the roof or shingle color - just want a good quality seal.
Thank you for your comments.
I don't know where you are reading about caulking as a roofing necessity. If the transition was installed properly then there is no need for caulk. If it was installed improperly then your caulking is no more than a very temporary solution that is going to drive up the cost of a proper repair with the extra work of dismantling the caulked areas.
Can you tell us where you are finding all these "caulking" solutions? Is your roof leaking at this time?
There is not "magic-bullet" sealant that works with dissimilar materials -
i.e.... shingles to masonry/wood/metal....
Exterior use - everything is subject to degradation from weather/UV effects/
I've had good experience with "OSI" - "Quad" and "NPT" - "Solar Seal".
Stay away from Silicone or asphalt.
Wait and see if someone else "chimes" in with some recommendations!
Yeah, also what "OldNBroken" says!
Once again a picture sure would be nice.
We have no pictures so we can only guess you are talking about your wood shake siding and your asphalt roof shingles at a rising wall. As OldNBroken said, you do not need sealant on a new roof, and if you do need sealant somebody did something wrong.
On a steep roof, water is supposed to shed from one surface to the next, that is why they are called "Water Shedding" as opposed to "Water Proofing"
The skirt on counter-flashing is supposed to be long enough to inhibit wind blown rain from getting into your roofing system.
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