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-   -   Roof to Wall Flashing Installation – Painted Cedar Lap Board Siding (http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/roof-wall-flashing-installation-painted-cedar-lap-board-siding-88722/)

Deeppool 12-05-2010 03:49 PM

Roof to Wall Flashing Installation – Painted Cedar Lap Board Siding
 
Hello,
We contracted with a large installation company for a new roof using GAF Timberline Natural Shadow shingles. Our contract also includes new roof flashing.

The flashing was an important point and fully discussed with the sales person since we live near the coast – and rust / corrosion is always present. The job was also site reviewed by the foreman before any work began.

The roof shingles look great.
However, the installation foreman states they are unable (or unwilling) to install new roof to wall flashing because they don't want to remove siding. Our house siding is painted cedar lap board.

Their reason is they fear the lower boards may snap or break – requiring them to purchase, measure, cut and replace it with a new boards.

They've offered instead to install roof shingles to the wall on top of the old roof to wall and place a 1x3 border across the top to make sure no water is able to penetrate behind the area where the roof to wall meets the siding.

Questions:
- Is it possible to install new roof to wall flashing without removing the lower siding boards? Can't the boards be loosen with a flatbar just enough to slip the siding behind them? If so – how would the flashing be secured to the wall?

- Are nails suppose to be driven through the flashing where it covers the shingles? (I think I already know the answer to this one...They did this because they bent up the old flashing to install the shingles – but couldn't get it to lay flat again)

- Is there any product, a metal strip or channel perhaps, that can be attached to the lowest lap board that will “bridge” the transition from the wall to the new flashing?

Octopus 12-05-2010 07:01 PM

The roofers arguement is valid but the "roof over flashing and 1x3 solution", in my opinion, is not.

Yes, nailing down the flashing is a common practive as not all roof to wall flashing is bent perfectly to math the exact pitch of any given roof. However, the nails heads need to be sealed if they did not use a rubber washer ring shank.

Sometimes the roofer will not replace roof to wall or step flashing but at the least they should have offered to paint the flashing to match or blend with the new roof color. Simple can of proper spray paint. Sometimes this looks even better then new flashing.

Flashings not secured behind siding should have been replaced. Valley metel, attic vents, plumbing penetrations, chimney flashing and skylite flashings.

Gas Furnace pipes / vents are also typically painted to blend with roof color

seeyou 12-06-2010 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deeppool (Post 545991)
Hello,
We contracted with a large installation company for a new roof using GAF Timberline Natural Shadow shingles. Our contract also includes new roof flashing.

The flashing was an important point and fully discussed with the sales person since we live near the coast – and rust / corrosion is always present. The job was also site reviewed by the foreman before any work began.

The roof shingles look great.
However, the installation foreman states they are unable (or unwilling) to install new roof to wall flashing because they don't want to remove siding. Our house siding is painted cedar lap board.

Their reason is they fear the lower boards may snap or break – requiring them to purchase, measure, cut and replace it with a new boards.

They've offered instead to install roof shingles to the wall on top of the old roof to wall and place a 1x3 border across the top to make sure no water is able to penetrate behind the area where the roof to wall meets the siding.

Questions:
1- Is it possible to install new roof to wall flashing without removing the lower siding boards? Can't the boards be loosen with a flatbar just enough to slip the siding behind them? If so – how would the flashing be secured to the wall?

2- Are nails suppose to be driven through the flashing where it covers the shingles? (I think I already know the answer to this one...They did this because they bent up the old flashing to install the shingles – but couldn't get it to lay flat again)

3- Is there any product, a metal strip or channel perhaps, that can be attached to the lowest lap board that will “bridge” the transition from the wall to the new flashing?


The quotes in purple pretty much sum it up. They contracted to replace the flashing. The salesman didn't add for the extra work and now reality caused them to try and pull a fast one. They owe you new flashing done properly. Replacing some siding may be beyond their skill set.

1-Maybe. Depends on where the flashing and the siding is nailed.

2-I assume this refers to the apron flashing on the fronts of the dormers. My method is to install small metal strips nailed underneath the apron and bend them back up and over the front edge of the apron to hold it down. Pop rivets are then applied to hold it tight. It's not the end of the world if the apron is face nailed, but there are better ways. This is probably the least of your worries here.

3-Something like that could be fabricated, but would look bad.

If you haven't written the check yet, don't until they satisfy their contract. Good luck.

hitmehhh 12-08-2010 08:36 AM

You should have made them do it right. When you have a problem I'm sure they won't be in any hurry to come back. You should always go with your gut feeling or you will regret it.


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