Roll roofing again LOL!

pmaru77 · 05-09-2007, 03:04 PM

I'm roll roofing a desert cabin soon and wanted to hear the yeahs..and neahs....or tips. First off..the rainfall is 4 inches per year.....the roof is low pitched at 7 degrees.....gable style. its a 12 x 20 structure so each roof area will be approx. 13 x 11 ft times 2. High wind is a problem so I have to tar down the laps. People down here like to show the nails off I guess because they want to secure the ends from wind blowing them up and off. I know this is typically a no-no...but I'm planning on doing it and then taring it over...with canned tar stuff. If it holds up for 10 years...that's fine. Any better ideas?

**Ed the Roofer** · 05-09-2007, 10:27 PM

Get a 5 gallon bucket of asphalt adhesive to hold down the crappy roll roofing material. Especially, if high winds are likely.

When you trowel the plastic roof cement on the entire lap, run a 4" cotton or polyester membrane, known as "minnie" over the lap edge where the nails are exposed, splitting the difference of the width of the membrane.

When that membrane is troweled down flat to the surface applied roof cement, trowel an additional "skin coating" of additional roof cement over the top exposed fibers of the minnie to prevent it from deteriorating from the UV rays of the sun.

This fabric prevents the roof cement and the seams from splitting apart and cracking when applied in conjunction with the plastic roof cement.

Ed

pmaru77 · 05-10-2007, 02:14 PM

if I can find the stuff youare talking about. It sounds similar to fiberglassing a joint. so the minnie goes over the joint half and half....and it covers the nails...so it is the last thing. did I get it?

I've got a roll of underlayment (tar paper) that I was going to put down before the roofing roll. do I put the asphalt adheseve on top of the paper ...then the roll roofing? Hey.....thanks for caring.....and this would be considered a first class roof down there (san felipe B.C. Mex)
and 200 ft from Sea of cortez..

**Ed the Roofer** · 05-10-2007, 03:17 PM

I don't know how fiberglass would expand and contract for certain, but it probably would react very similar to the cotton or polyester membranes I mentioned previously.

Yes, split the difference like you pictured what I was saying.

Try ANY roofing supply house which sells to the hot tar/asphalt roofing contractors and they will have the "more proper" product though.

I guess even not the proper one will still be better than none at all, as the plastic roofing cement will almost immediately dry up and crack, and will assist in seperating the seams without any membrane reinforcement at all.

Goodluck and write back if you have any additional concerns.

Ed

Talos4 · 05-10-2007, 11:58 PM

I hate to jump in here but after he was on his way I just had to...

Minnie? Really?

Never heard that one before.

Rag, cloth, sack, mesh, Minnie?

Back on topic. Roof Cement and re-enforcing cloth would be the way to seal the seams.

Put down the first layer of roofing. Lay your second run above the first overlapping the first layer the nail thru both layers. and so on UP the roof. Start at the bottom and work your way up.

When you done with that start at the top and work your way down.

Follow what Ed explained in covering the seams, this is called 3 coursing the seam. Cement, cloth cement. Extend the first layer at least and inch or so wider than the cloth you're using that way you'll better cover the cloth with the second layer of cement.

Why start at the top? That way you're not crawling over fresh cement as work across the roof. The fresh stuff will always be above you.

(you will get the cement all over your hands, arms, shirt, pants, shoes, face, and places you'll wonder about later in the day)

That should do it.

Minnie?

AaronB · 05-11-2007, 05:14 AM

Mini.

**Ed the Roofer** · 05-11-2007, 08:25 AM

Heres one from the archives.

Remember Jute?

Maybe it is a Chicago related term.

Dope and minnie or mini?

Typically it is most commonly asphalt saturated cloth/cotton/polyester membrane rolls in either 4:, 6", 12" or 36" widths.

Good advise for the guy to start the doping at the top to prevent rolling around in it all day long.

Ed

Talos4 · 05-14-2007, 11:08 PM

Ok, Jute I know!

Just a little further North

RooferJim · 05-16-2007, 04:46 PM

What the hell is Jute ?

**Ed the Roofer** · 05-16-2007, 07:38 PM

An old Beatles song.

Hey Jute!

Naw, its a rope like material, used as a fabric reinforcement from along time ago in a roofing galaxy far far away.

Ed

Cuc Tu · 06-05-2007, 11:41 AM

you're not supposed to nail the rolled stuff? I've got lots of nails. I guess I better go get some tar.

Thanks.

**Ed the Roofer** · 06-05-2007, 01:25 PM

Not exposed nails. The nails get covered by the next overlapping seam, which should be fully adhered for the entire width of the roll with an asphaltic adhesive or glue some would call it, but glue technically is not the proper term.

If there are exposed nails, then use the method prescribed earlier on.

Ed

RooferJim · 06-05-2007, 08:43 PM

Hey guys, that peel & stick rool roofing "they like to call it modified." is pretty good and easy stuff for a DIY. its called either GAF Liberty sheet another one is Certainteed Flintlastick or Polyglass Elastoflex. they have a lot of colors as well. best way is to put a layer of ice and water shield mebrane as a base sheet then you put your drip edge metal on and prime the flange with ashpalt primer before the cap sheet. No need for any Tar,gunk,karnak,puky,kaka or dutie

RooferJim
www.jbennetteroofing.com