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Old 03-06-2013, 09:46 AM   #16
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Ridge Vent vs Attic Fan?? Different info from pro roofers


Pewter would be perfect, and neutral, which is what you want, They mimic slate, which would look very good on your home. Which is very nice.

As an added tip, Have the roofer run your ridge vent on the garage all the way out to the end, even though the ridge is not cut all the way to the end. It looks much better than stopping it 2 feet short of the rake.

2. Full sheet of ice dams centered on the valley, felt run onto valley min 6 inches.

3. Ice dams to 2 feet inside the exterior wall line, felt over

4. New drip edge at eaves and rakes, enveloped in ice dams flashing.

5. Clad Fascia with white aluminum if not clad already.

6. New seamless gutters rolled on site. Hang with hidden hangers 24 inches on center, New DS and els screwed together with HWH SS screws so you can take them apart if necessary. (Leaves)

7. Nail shingles to high wind spec.

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Old 03-08-2013, 12:57 PM   #17
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Ridge Vent vs Attic Fan?? Different info from pro roofers


I *think* we have soffits in addition to the ridge vents. We also have a powerfan.

We're getting the roof redone because the previous owner was not home when the current roof was done. The company that did the home placed the roof over the old roof so we have the builder grade 30 year old roof that's helping to cause leakage in the home.

We contacted GAF ourselves and - everyone is giving us a slightly different answer. From what I can find online it looks like the powerfan is a bad idea. I've read that it will kill our energy bill in the summer and suck out A/C air.

We picked our contractor based on GAF Master Elites listed on their website. We want to get the best warrenty possible - especially since these businesses could possibly go under. We didn't go for the biggest company in the area - we went with the guy who seemed to be lying to us the least, lol. We've interviewed quite a few different contractors - about 7 so far.

I'l go read up on the ventilation, jagans. Thanks for the photos!
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Old 03-08-2013, 01:15 PM   #18
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Ridge Vent vs Attic Fan?? Different info from pro roofers


Ok, just read this thread for the first time.

i would not hire either of the two roofers. My background is I got into construction roofing back in the 80's.

it is important to check to see if the soffit ventilation is not covered. as far as the ridge vent is concerned, I would add hip ridge vents. these are like the ridge vent you have now, that don't show as they are shingled over.

if you want to read more on ventilation, go to buildingscience,com for more info.

One other thing, manufacturer is not that important. you need to read up on your specific state to see if the manufacturer has had problems. I say this because I have conversed with other roofers from other areas and we all differ on the manufacturer. in other words, some factories have had problems in certain areas.

For example, I would not use GAF in Kentucky as the roofers there have had problems with it. here in Central NY where I live, we use GAF's all of the time, but don't care for other brands that I have had problems with.

One more thing, buy the thickest you can afford, as it will last longer.
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Old 03-08-2013, 01:36 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by framer52 View Post
Ok, just read this thread for the first time.

i would not hire either of the two roofers. My background is I got into construction roofing back in the 80's.

it is important to check to see if the soffit ventilation is not covered. as far as the ridge vent is concerned, I would add hip ridge vents. these are like the ridge vent you have now, that don't show as they are shingled over.

if you want to read more on ventilation, go to buildingscience,com for more info.

One other thing, manufacturer is not that important. you need to read up on your specific state to see if the manufacturer has had problems. I say this because I have conversed with other roofers from other areas and we all differ on the manufacturer. in other words, some factories have had problems in certain areas.

For example, I would not use GAF in Kentucky as the roofers there have had problems with it. here in Central NY where I live, we use GAF's all of the time, but don't care for other brands that I have had problems with.

One more thing, buy the thickest you can afford, as it will last longer.

Oooh. Uh oh.

We wanted to go with GAF because they have a factory located less than 45 miles away from our home. Our area seems to be either GAF or CertianTeed only. Most of the contractors are using GAF. We only had 2 out of 7 offer CertianTeed.
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Old 03-08-2013, 01:47 PM   #20
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Jagan has it nailed. The garage roof is perfect for ridge vent. The house isn't. You have very little ridge on the house roof.. Get a couple power vents on the back of the house roof on temp/hum sensors. I also like landmark shingles. Go to certain teed website and see if there is a certified installer in your area. Landmarks have the best looking ridge shingles on the market. The way you roof is laid out they will really dress if up. Unlike gaf there ridge shingles are bla. Finally you have a nice looking house. Unfortunately i can't recommend a landmark color for you. I'm not sure what color pallet Maryland runs off. Ask Jagan what color landmark he thinks would look nice. He is in Maryland and knows what colors are available.

The shingles we currently have are Landmark 40 Slate something or the other. We found the paperwork from the previous installation from the previous owner.
I'm sad that the company got him so bad - the shingles look great but the installation was crap.
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Old 03-08-2013, 01:52 PM   #21
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Ridge Vent vs Attic Fan?? Different info from pro roofers


How is the install so bad?
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Old 03-08-2013, 02:08 PM   #22
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Ridge Vent vs Attic Fan?? Different info from pro roofers


I have a power fan, and actually it does not "kill" your energy bill. Mine usually kicks on around 1 in the afternoon and shuts down around 5:30-6, unless it is super hot around 112 like we had last year, then it would run until 8pm.

We do not have soffit's in our Bungalow, and before the power vent, attic temps would reach 135-140. Now it gets usually no higher than 112, and once it has ran for about a hour or two, I see the temps get down around 99. It shuts off around. 90 degrees.

It uses around a penny a day to run, which is by far cheaper than a a/c running with the furnace during a high temp/humidity event.

People tend to not run their systems efficient, by either setting the temp too high/low while away, then mis-adjust the temp when they are home, to compensate for making it too warm during the Summer or too cold during the Winter.
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Old 03-08-2013, 02:42 PM   #23
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Ridge Vent vs Attic Fan?? Different info from pro roofers


To add, laying another layer on the existing shingles will not make the prev. layer leak. Only way there would be leaks, is if they were pre-existing and never addressed to begin with.

The part that the contactors could be inflating is the price of tear off and fixing any timber in the trusses, along with sheathing.
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Old 03-08-2013, 03:18 PM   #24
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Ridge Vent vs Attic Fan?? Different info from pro roofers


It is my opinion that an asphalt shingle should never be recovered.

1. You cant check to see if the deck has suffered damage or if it is properly secured.

2. You cannot properly install ice dams material or felt.

3. The new roof depends on the old roof for support, and problems in the old can transmit to the new.

4. A lot of unnecessary dead load is added to the structure, decreasing the live load capability.

5. The old roof increases heat aging of the new roof.

And a bunch of others which other pros will add.
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Old 03-08-2013, 03:23 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by framer52 View Post
How is the install so bad?


He paid for a complete tear off and install. Complete with new skylights, etc.

He received none of that. The old roof is there. it is "fine" so far, I guess. Except it seems that none of the flashing, etc was replaced when the new shingles were layered over the old roof. There are signs of previous leaking in all 4 skylights (which were not replaced, either).

Per the previous owner the roofers had to come back due to leaks, etc - they only re-caulked. There are signs of lots of old (and failing) caulking lines.

There is no drip edge.

The old shingles were cut back along the entire edge of the home - per a roofer who repaired an old leak this means that the entire edge around the home may (or may not, depending on luck) have some rot/dry rot of the plywood.

I think that's enough. I'm hoping there will be no more issues...but I'm sure we will find more once the old roof starts to come off.
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Old 03-08-2013, 03:31 PM   #26
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Ridge Vent vs Attic Fan?? Different info from pro roofers


So here's a slightly off topic question:

I have a copy of the previous owner's warranty, along with the name, address and phone number of the company who installed it.

Should I contact them or should I just leave it alone? Per what I have read of the warranty the installation job voids out the warranty of the product.

I am not sure how much - if any - years the workmanship warranty came with. I'm just looking at the product warranty.
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Old 03-08-2013, 03:32 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans View Post
It is my opinion that an asphalt shingle should never be recovered.

1. You cant check to see if the deck has suffered damage or if it is properly secured.

2. You cannot properly install ice dams material or felt.

3. The new roof depends on the old roof for support, and problems in the old can transmit to the new.

4. A lot of unnecessary dead load is added to the structure, decreasing the live load capability.

5. The old roof increases heat aging of the new roof.

And a bunch of others which other pros will add.

This is what I have been told. I've also been told that "the new roof is only as good as the old roof" when they are layered in this manner.
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Old 03-08-2013, 03:35 PM   #28
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This is a copy of the specs the contractor we are *thinking* about going with has sent to us.

What do yall think?

Quote:
Glass-Fiber-Reinforced Asphalt Shingles Multilayer Architectural Asphalt Shingles: glass-fiber reinforced, mineral-granule surfaced, and self-sealing. Product to be GAF Timberline shingle with Algae Resistance: Granules treated to resist Algae growth.

Underlayment Materials - Felts: GAF Shingle-Mate fiberglass reinforced roof deck protection.

Self-Adhering Sheet Underlayment GAF Weather Watch fiberglass reinforced self-adhering leak barrier.

Ridge Vents GAF Snow Country Advanced rigid section high-density polypropylene ridge vent with external deflector baffles; for use under ridge shingles.

Ridge Caps- Multilayer Architectural Asphalt Ridge Cap Shingle: glass-fiber reinforced and mineral-granule surfaced Product to be GAF Timbertex.

Asphalt Roofing Cement Vulkem -ASTM D 4586, Type II, asbestos free.

Roofing Nails - ASTM F 1667; aluminum, stainless-steel, copper, or hot-dip galvanized steel wire shingle nails, minimum 0.120-inch- diameter, barbed shank, sharp-pointed, with a minimum 3/8-inch- diameter flat head and of sufficient length to penetrate at least l/8 inch through OSB or plywood sheathing.

Felt Underlayment Fasteners - 3/8 inch staples or hot-dip galvanized steel wire with low profile capped heads.

Metal Flashing and Trim - Sheet Metal Flashing and Trim: Comply with requirements in Division 7 Section "Sheet Metal
Flashing and Trim." Sheet Metal: Aluminum will match existing finish. Fabricate sheet metal flashing and trim to comply with recommendations in SMACNA's Architectural Sheet Metal Manual" that apply to design, dimensions, metal, and other
characteristics of item.

Drip Edges - aluminum, Fabricate in lengths not exceeding 10 feet with 2-inch roof deck flange and l-l/2-inch fascia flange with 3/8-inch drip at lower edge. See NRCA eave and rake flashing with gutter detail attached.

Vent Pipe Flashings - Install new flashing collars according to NRCA Pipe penetration detail attached.

Examination - Examine roof sheathing to verify that sheathing joints are supported by framing and blocking or metal clips and that installation is within flatness tolerances.

Substrate - Verify that substrate is sound, dry, smooth, clean, sloped for drainage, and completely anchored; and that provision has been made for flashings and penetrations through asphalt shingles.

Underlayment Installation - Install GAf Shingle-Mate felt underlayment on roof sheathing not covered by self-adhering sheet underlayment. Lap edges over self-adhering sheet underlayment not less than 3 inches in
direction to shed water. Fasten with 3/8" staples.

Self-Adhering Sheet Underlayment - Install GAF Weather Watch self-adhering sheet underlayment on roof deck. Install lapped in direction to shed water. Extend from gutter edges 36 inches unto roof deck. Extend from edges of rake 18-36 inches upon roof deck. In valley areas extend from lowest to highest point 18 inches on each side.

Apron Flashings - Extend lower flange over and beyond each side of down-slope asphalt shingles and up the vertical surface.

Step Flashings - Install with a head-lap of 2 inches and extend over the underlying asphalt shingle and up the vertical surface. Fasten to roof deck only.

Backer Flashings - Install against the roof-penetrating element extending concealed flange beneath upslope asphalt shingles and beyond each side.

Rake Drip Edges - Install rake drip edge flashings over underlayment and fasten to roof deck.

Eave Drip Edges - Install eave drip edge flashings below underlayment and fasten to roof sheathing.

Pipe Flashings - Form flashing around pipe penetrations and asphalt shingles. Fasten and seal to asphalt shingles as recommended by manufacturer. Install Perma Boot vent pipe caps over all vent pipes.

Starter Strip - Install starter strip along lowest roof edge and along all rake edges, consisting of an asphalt shingle strip at least 7 inches wide, with self-sealing strip face up at roof edge.

Overhangs - Extend asphalt shingles 1 inch over fascia at eaves and rakes.

Skylight Installation Replace 4 existing skylight units with new Wasco self-flashing skylight units. (Model EF2246)

Shingle Installation - Install first and remaining courses of asphalt shingles maintaining uniform exposure. Fasten asphalt shingle strips with a minimum of four roofing nails located according to manufacturer's written instructions.

Ridge Vents - Install continuous ridge vents over asphalt shingles according to manufacturer's written instructions. Fasten with roofing nails of sufficient length to penetrate sheathing.

Ridge Cap Shingles - Maintain same exposure of cap shingles as roofing shingle exposure. Fasten with roofing nails of sufficient length to penetrate sheathing. Fasten ridge cap asphalt shingles to cover ridge vent without obstructing airflow.

Special Instruction Existing dome vent will be removed and the existing hole will be covered with new plywood.
(This plywood is included in the cost and is not part of the 2 sheets given if rotted plywood is found)
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Old 03-08-2013, 03:57 PM   #29
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Ridge Vent vs Attic Fan?? Different info from pro roofers


Looks to me that all they did was print off a standard boiler plate estimate that they use on all their jobs.

As I stated before, find another company or two. Does not have to have the whole "Certified by such and such in their disclaimer", they just need to know what they are doing.

That is why I went with the guy I did, because not only was his bid mid-range, but because he came with experience and did not flash around the whole "certified by xyz."

That is why I have him do stuff for me, along with his dad when I need other items done. His father works on the Lincoln home and other historic sites, so I know that I can trust their workmanship.
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:44 PM   #30
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It is my opinion that you should read what has been posted regarding proposals by those posters that sound like they know what they are talking about.

What is to be provided should be specific if it is an actual bid and not a boiler plate document that needs to be modified.

Example: I would not allow 3/8 staples to be used to secure underlayment. I would require roofing nails with plastic caps. That being said, the installation of shingles should follow application of the underlayment on the same day.

Most roofers today use pneumatic nail guns. I would require galvanized nails of domestic manufacture.

Ice dams material should extend two feet inside the interior plane of your exterior walls In other words, two feet inside the dry wall.

There must be clauses to cover the following:

Time of contract.
Hours and days of work.
Protection during construction.
Repair of damage to property by contractor. (Take Before Pictures)
Use of facilities (Roofers have to use the bathroom too)
Contractor responsible for consequential damages.
There must be a unit price for replacement of bad decking. Unit should be minimum 4 x 4 feet and span three supports

Payment: You should not pay anything up front. Payment should be made for completed work only. You do not want to deal with any contractor that needs up front money.

I don't like "self flashing" skylights. Skylights should have a curb and a counter flashing, and be flashed like a chimney with individual base tins, commonly referred to as step flashing.

There are several models of the Timberline. Which model are you getting?
Make sure they are algae resistant.

Hope some of this helps.

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