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Old 06-08-2013, 07:59 AM   #16
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Ridge Cap Shingle Installation Question


The pipe collors should have looked like this.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...lectedIndex=29

Yes it's not as pretty, but it's not going to let water in under the shingles and leak.

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Old 06-08-2013, 09:58 AM   #17
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OP While we are taking your roof apart, I would recommend that you make sure the parging on the top of your chimney is good, and coat it with an elastomeric coating, or have a sheet metal shop make up a chimney cap for you. Keeping the water out from behind the brick veneer keeps the masonry from coming apart from freeze thaw.

I think I would paint that white PVC stack with dark brown paint too. I dont know why they did not run that through on the rear slope. Maybe there is a good reason.
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Old 06-12-2013, 02:50 PM   #18
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So the roofer came back and stuffed more of the mesh venting material under the ridge cap shingles near the ends where the vent stopped and were laying flatter than the rest of the ridge.

He still didn't go all the way to the end and it's tapered a few inches from the end of the peak. Now my complaint is I'm seeing 1-2 gold nails that glisten in the sun on the ridge. It's really annoying to see that every time I look up at the roof. I don't know if I'm being petty or should I call him back to disguise the nails. As far as I can see, no roof I look at has any nails showing. Is it normal to tack down the last ridge cap shingle with a nail?
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Old 06-12-2013, 03:24 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
#1 No way would I have used that style vent.
All my local shingle supplys and even the box stores in my area stopped selling it because just does not give enough venting, and done wrong it looks like a snake eatting a rat.
Cap shingles should have covered every inch of the vent!!!
Got a picture?
I see those type vents being used a lot around here, New Brunswick, Canada. If they let water in and do not provide enough ventilation then why are they still being used?? Did they not test them before they started selling them ??

What's a better option ? I'd like to know because I'm about to have my roof done pretty soon. Thanks.
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Old 06-12-2013, 03:27 PM   #20
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As far as I can see, no roof I look at has any nails showing. Is it normal to tack down the last ridge cap shingle with a nail?
I'm not a roofer but that last cap shingle would either have to be nailed or glued I would think... maybe both.

Maybe you could get him to put a dab of roofing cement on the nails showing on the last cap shingle ?? Just a thought. If there's nails showing on any other shingles then I would think that would not be a good thing.
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:34 AM   #21
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I see those type vents being used a lot around here, New Brunswick, Canada. If they let water in and do not provide enough ventilation then why are they still being used?? Did they not test them before they started selling them ??

What's a better option ? I'd like to know because I'm about to have my roof done pretty soon. Thanks.
They don't provide enough ventilation nor are they baffled. Another issue is that they are often overnailed and this even further reduces their ventilation capacity.

Use something rigid like an Air Vent II or the GAF Snow Country.



Don't use this stuff...ever.
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:37 AM   #22
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They don't provide enough ventilation nor are they baffled. Another issue is that they are often overnailed and this even further reduces their ventilation capacity.

Use something rigid like an Air Vent II or the GAF Snow Country.



Don't use this stuff...ever.
I've been seeing these rolls for sale second hand recently ... maybe the word is out they're not so good as they thought they were. Thanks for the heads up. It's good to know this weather I do it myself or get a contractor. I'll be able to specify in the contract what I want and don't want even.
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:39 AM   #23
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I just realized that from the ground I can't really tell if the ridge vent on all the new house roof's are of the rolled type or the plastic type. I'll have to check that out.
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Old 08-17-2013, 07:49 AM   #24
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..i'm installing my roof myself! Re; 13yr old roof with former tear off, curled and started leaking 2 yrs ago... No RV installed! Will be correct this time, by me! Ummm my dilemma at the moment is part of my roof on two sides (east & west) are part of the "kneeling wall/ceiling" type. Q1-DO I install "intake venting" 2-3 feet up from drip so that the I/V is above the top plate of wall? Q2-Has there been a sufficient amount of time, evaluation for proper testing, install longevity in all you members opinion of wether or not you like or dislike I/Vs such as AiRvent inc and others..? tia

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Old 08-17-2013, 08:30 AM   #25
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We have used them with success. If installed properly, they work just fine.
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:28 AM   #26
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I should really EDIT (but i'm going to leave it so others might learn) the way I asked this question bc OF COURSE they have to be installed 2-3' up from drip... BC THERE ISN'T A SOFFIT, (an eave yes) and SOFFIT VENT! LMAO at myself... :D thx WoW for your input. Have you or anyone installed the DCI version?

Last edited by dannydan; 08-17-2013 at 09:30 AM. Reason: left out key info!
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Old 08-17-2013, 12:17 PM   #27
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Yes.

Works fine.
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:50 PM   #28
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All roofs have to have ridge cap shingles installed from edge to edge. Leaving a roof with missing ridge cap shingles is like leaving a slope on a roof without fully installing all the shingles. Now what I think is going on is that you mean ridge vent ventilation system. That is not to be installed all the way to the edge of the ridge. I see a lot of homes where the roofer has installed the ridge vent all the way to the edge and it is not the right way of doing it.

Devin Mahdi

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Old 08-20-2013, 05:26 AM   #29
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http://www.albertsroofing.com/Ridge%20Vent%20Detail.htm

All the way to the end is correct, alond with being better looking. Ridge cut stops about 12" back at the last rafter and the shingles close the end.
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Old 08-23-2013, 05:08 PM   #30
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Thanks again to WoW and also to Dallas and Tinner... My roof is basically a four sided hip with two sides shorter than the opposing other two sides. No gables even tho I have two gable vents on the short sides placed right at the clg joists which will be used as the intakes as I have a closed soffet because of the "kneeling ceilings" . My ridge is about 18' long which makes one think that it is not a full fledged "hip roof"... This house is 22'X24' with all eaves appox hanging over 2'.... Thank you all again! Time to create a new question about I&w shield lol


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