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Old 07-28-2013, 09:45 AM   #1
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Replacing Soffit, Fascia & Gutters


DILEMMA:
Our home was built in 1993 and has the infamous Masonite soffit and fascia which must be replaced

SEEKING:
Recommendations for MATERIAL TYPE (wood, composite, etc.) & MATERIAL BRAND (if known)

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Old 07-28-2013, 10:08 AM   #2
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Replacing Soffit, Fascia & Gutters


We're going to have to narrow it down a bit before discussing brands.

There are many options out there with a wide range of price points. What do you want it to look like? Paint/no paint, stained? Budget...around here PVC fascia board runs about $3.50 per ft.

Also keep in mind the Masonite fascia is only about 1/2 thick...using a 3/4 fascia may not work out with your current drip edges/shingle overhang, etc.

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Old 07-28-2013, 12:39 PM   #3
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Replacing Soffit, Fascia & Gutters


Quote:
Originally Posted by kwikfishron View Post
We're going to have to narrow it down a bit before discussing brands.

There are many options out there with a wide range of price points. What do you want it to look like? Paint/no paint, stained? Budget...around here PVC fascia board runs about $3.50 per ft.

Also keep in mind the Masonite fascia is only about 1/2 thick...using a 3/4 fascia may not work out with your current drip edges/shingle overhang, etc.
Flat surface

Pre-finished white.

Is 3/4" fascia still available?

What would have to be done to use 1/2"?

Budget necessary to use quality materials but not extravagant.
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:44 PM   #4
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Replacing Soffit, Fascia & Gutters


Post some pictures of what you have.
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:18 PM   #5
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Replacing Soffit, Fascia & Gutters


Pre-finished because you think you won't have to paint it? Don't bet on that. Fastener holes and what-not will still need to be covered if you want a finished look, and that'll take painting the whole lot.

They just trimmed up our new place in Versatex pvc lumber. Pretty much worked it just like regular lumber.
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:01 AM   #6
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Replacing Soffit, Fascia & Gutters


PVC is fine but really should have a subfasia of real wood behind it to keep it laying flat.
PVC expands and contracts and may want to wave without support behind it.
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:51 AM   #7
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Replacing Soffit, Fascia & Gutters


Not sure why nobody else has mentioned this, but you are going to want to cover your fascia with white aluminum, unless you want a PIA maintenance issue. You are also going to want fully perforated aluminum soffit for ventilation purposes. If your drip location requires 1/2 inch thick material, you can simply use 15/32" BC plywood ripped to fit, extend it 3/4 inch below your rafter tails and install a 1 x 1 Parting strip of white pine longitudinally along the bottom edge of the plywood to stiffen up your fascia. Break .032 matte white aluminum to clad the fascia and break a return hem on the bottom to carry the vented soffit. Prime the plywood prior to installing aluminum. While you are under the soffit, address the ventilation flow issue and install baffles as needed. Do not fasten through laps, seal with white silicone in laps. Punch slots in return and fasten up into parting strip with white hex head self tapping screws. This will allow you to slip your cladding up behind existing drip. I would not use the big box crap. Go to a roofing and sheet metal shop and tell them what you need. Bring an accurate sketch with you and cash. Greenbacks. Don't be a noob and pull out a check book or credit card.

Can I talk to the boss? Thanks, Hi Boss, can we talk?

"Ill pay cash to have ### feet of this made up in .032 matte white aluminum, Half now, half when its done. how much?"
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:31 AM   #8
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Replacing Soffit, Fascia & Gutters


jagans,
wow, that was a very thorogh reply. It pains me to tell you this project is beyond my physical capabilities and has be done by a contractor. We want to use solid material for the fascia and soffit. Being so hot here your suggestion to use vented soffit is great.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:39 AM   #9
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Replacing Soffit, Fascia & Gutters


Just make sure the insulation and roof ridge vent are set up properly to deal with it. As in, the insulation needs to be pulled back enough to allow air to clearly flow up past it. And then out a ridge vent along the top of the roof.

Joe's point about material behind it is valid. As is the suggestion to consider aluminum on the face of it.

Would you care to share a picture of the stuff that needs replacing? Or explain the problem in a bit more detail? That might help point folks in a better direction for advising you on it.

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