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Old 05-22-2013, 12:03 PM   #1
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Replacing Fascia - Advice Needed


Hello!

I am looking at replacing the fascia around my house. I would like to get some input about what to watch out for and what type of wood I should use. Also, I will paint the house in some time, but not right away. How could I protect the wood from moisture until when we are actually going to paint the house and new wood? Would it be sufficient for some time to only apply primer?
As you can see this is a tar and gravel roof. Should I also replace the sheet metal strips that are nailed down onto the top of the boards? If yes, how would I re-tie these in with the tar roofing?

Thanks in advance for your advice!

Jaxx
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Old 05-25-2013, 05:31 PM   #2
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Replacing Fascia - Advice Needed


Unless there is something wrong with the fascia boards that is not shown in your pictures, I would just prep, prime and paint them, to preserve them. You can also repaint them a different color when you paint the house.


The time to replace the fascia and the edge flashing is the next time you re-roof. For you to attempt it now, will almost certainly cause leaks. Tying back in to that existing roofing is not a DIY job. Even some roofing companies screw it up.

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Old 05-25-2013, 08:14 PM   #3
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Replacing Fascia - Advice Needed


Could also get them wrapped in coil stock and never have to deal with it again,
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:28 AM   #4
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Replacing Fascia - Advice Needed


I have dry rot in some areas. Also, it looks like the house and the roof settled a bit and now the very corners are the lowest spots on the roof and most rainwater does not run to the drains anymore. Instead it runs over the edge on the fascia (I assume this also contributes to the dry rot). This is why I wanted to redo the fascia.

If I repaint the current ones, should I sand everything down and then just prime and paint?
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:03 PM   #5
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Replacing Fascia - Advice Needed


Your roof is a good example of why a gravel surfaced built up roof should not be used when your roof is relatively steep. When you put gravel on a built up roof, you need a gravel stop, but your gravel stop becomes a water dam at the eaves if your roof is steep. Since metal moves different than bituminous materials due to thermal change, this is where failure historically takes place in built up roofs, at the tie in of metal to bituminous materials.

Place this condition where it ponds at the eaves, and you have a problem. Any time a built up roof is installed on a structure like this, The membrane should be protected from UV with an aluminum roof coating, not stone ballast, then a drip edge with no gravel stop can be employed at the eaves.

In addition to this, the rake metal is inadequate and installed wrong.

1. Both sides of the metal flange must be primed with ASTM D-41 Asphalt Primer.

2. The roof plies need to be primed and coated with flashing cement.

3. The primed flange of the metal is then set in the flashing cement and nailed 4 inches on center, staggered with roofing nails. Overlaps in metal are shingled and sealed with two beads of butyl sealant. They are NOT nailed.

4. The top flange of the metal out onto the field plies are coated with flashing cement, and a 4 inch asphalt saturated fabric is embedded in cement. This is repeated with a 6 inch asphalt saturated fabric.

5 All is then coated with aluminum roof coating.

6. As far as your wood fascias go, I would use two plies of Minimum BC Exposure 1- 3/4 inch (23/32) plywood, ripped and laminated together with staggered end joints, Prime it and clad it with aluminum.

Your new roof should probably be a two ply SBS Modified Bitumen with proper detailing, depending on the slope.
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Last edited by jagans; 05-26-2013 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:35 PM   #6
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Replacing Fascia - Advice Needed


Wow, lots of information.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans View Post
Your roof is a good example of why a gravel surfaced built up roof should not be used when your roof is relatively steep.
My roof's pitch is 2:12 (9 deg). Do you consider this steep? (I guess it is steep compared to a flat-top)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans View Post
Any time a built up roof is installed on a structure like this, The membrane should be protected from UV with an aluminum roof coating, not stone ballast, then a drip edge with no gravel stop can be employed at the eaves.
Does this mean I should remove all gravel and apply this coating? I do have to go up there frequently to cover "bald" spots with gravel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans View Post
In addition to this, the rake metal is inadequate and installed wrong.
1. Both sides of the metal flange must be primed with ASTM D-41 Asphalt Primer.
You mean the bottom of the side that is facing up and the inside of the side that is facing out the side?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans View Post
2. The roof plies need to be primed and coated with flashing cement.
You mean the area of the roof plies that the metal flange sits on?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans View Post
3. The primed flange of the metal is then set in the flashing cement and nailed 4 inches on center, staggered with roofing nails.
I think this does answer the two questions I had above.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans View Post
4. The top flange of the metal out onto the field plies are coated with flashing cement, and a 4 inch asphalt saturated fabric is embedded in cement. This is repeated with a 6 inch asphalt saturated fabric.
This will result in the top sides of the flange being covered completely (only the sides are still shown), correct?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans View Post
5 All is then coated with aluminum roof coating.
All, including the sides of the metal flange?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans View Post
6. As far as your wood fascias go, I would use two plies of Minimum BC Exposure 1- 3/4 inch (23/32) plywood, ripped and laminated together with staggered end joints, Prime it and clad it with aluminum.
Plywood because it is more durable or because it is cheaper than high quality durable wood?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans View Post
Your new roof should probably be a two ply SBS Modified Bitumen with proper detailing, depending on the slope.
You mention "new roof". Would you advise not to redo fascia boards and metal flanges WITHOUT redoing the roofing material as well? If possible, I would like to just redo the fascia and the metal flanges.

Also, is there a need to use fascia covers or could I leave wood exposed (but primed and painted)? Is visual appearance the main reason to go with fascia covers?
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:48 AM   #7
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Replacing Fascia - Advice Needed


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaxx View Post
Wow, lots of information.


My roof's pitch is 2:12 (9 deg). Do you consider this steep? (I guess it is steep compared to a flat-top)


Does this mean I should remove all gravel and apply this coating? I do have to go up there frequently to cover "bald" spots with gravel.


You mean the bottom of the side that is facing up and the inside of the side that is facing out the side?


You mean the area of the roof plies that the metal flange sits on?


I think this does answer the two questions I had above.


This will result in the top sides of the flange being covered completely (only the sides are still shown), correct?


All, including the sides of the metal flange?


Plywood because it is more durable or because it is cheaper than high quality durable wood?


You mention "new roof". Would you advise not to redo fascia boards and metal flanges WITHOUT redoing the roofing material as well? If possible, I would like to just redo the fascia and the metal flanges.

Also, is there a need to use fascia covers or could I leave wood exposed (but primed and painted)? Is visual appearance the main reason to go with fascia covers?
The "Flange" is the horizontal portion of the metal that has to be primed on both sides, set in cement, and stripped in. From your photos, the bone head that installed your metal simply nailed through the flange into your perimeter nailers, which doubles as your fascia I guess. Your eaves are going to be a problem the way they are built. I gotta run, going fishing.
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Old 07-13-2013, 11:04 AM   #8
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Replacing Fascia - Advice Needed


Would it be possible for a roof like mine (see pictures at top post) to install normal gutters? Currently the fascia at the eave side is set higher to build a damn which routes the water to the corners of the roof surface. Drain holes are located in the corner of the roof surface. If I wanted to use regular gutters I would need to lower the fascia boards so that the water can run over the edge into the gutter. What would I then use as a gravel stop to keep the gravel from getting into the gutters?

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