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Repairing facia and roof edge

4K views 2 replies 2 participants last post by  hollerg 
#1 · (Edited)
I am in the process of completely replacing both facia (rot) and roof shingles (hurricane) on a 15 yr old house.

The hardi plank(sp?) installation diagrams show a continous sub facia 2x4 to support the facia and the outer edge of the soffit. The builder skipped this board where the roof edge is level.

How do I trim the end of each tail and lookout consistantly so it is vertical and even to accomodate the 2x4 subfacia without damaging the decking?

Can it even be done before the roof deck is removed? If not what about just trimming off the first 4-8 inches of roof deck to accomodate a vertical cut with my skill saw? Must the roofing contractor replace full sheets of OSB decking would it be acceptable building practice to replace in 1x8 or 2x8 sections, and would that save a few bucks?
 
#2 ·
The smaller width of plywood or osb decking being replaced, the weaker it is, regarding structural stability.

I, for instance, could stand on a one foot wide portion of a full sheet, with no adverse affects, but if I were to stand on a sheet that was cut down to only one foot in width, the sheathing would likely snap in half, from the pressure.

The decking structure, which should last as long as the roof shingles is NOT any place to take minor short cuts to try to pinch a few pennies.

I certainly know and understand about being as thrifty as possible too, from my growing up years and family heritage.

As a retro-fit, I do not see the rational for reqiiring more bracing from the additiona 2" x 4", when the original fascia board did not have it there for it's entire duration to date.

Ed
 
#3 ·
The original facia was the OSB type of board with the groove to hold the edge of the soffit stable. I had alot of it that was rotted as well as rotted lookouts. The original board seems to have less flex/sag than the hardi plank. Isn't the added support needed to minimize sag and wavyness?
 
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