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Old 11-02-2012, 06:46 PM   #16
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Repair + roof coating options


Should I put 1 or 2 coats of aluminum paint on?. When I am painting with interior or exterior paints I always use 2 coats. Never tried roof painting though.

Thanks again.

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Old 11-02-2012, 07:35 PM   #17
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Repair + roof coating options


Should I put 1 or 2 coats of aluminum paint on?. When I am painting with interior or exterior paints I always use 2 coats. Never tried roof painting though.

Thanks again.
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:40 PM   #18
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Repair + roof coating options


The edge metal should be installed over and then striped in with a 9" or so wide piece of cap sheet. sandwiching it between the felts and the cap sheet is the wrong way to do it.

You could have someone bend a new piece of edge metal a 1" or so longer in the face then what is existing and install that, then buy a roll or two of modified cap sheet and strip it in. Doing that would be much more worth while then just doping and ragging it. Also save your money don't bother alumicoating the roof.
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:26 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1985gt View Post
The edge metal should be installed over and then striped in with a 9" or so wide piece of cap sheet. sandwiching it between the felts and the cap sheet is the wrong way to do it.

You could have someone bend a new piece of edge metal a 1" or so longer in the face then what is existing and install that, then buy a roll or two of modified cap sheet and strip it in. Doing that would be much more worth while then just doping and ragging it. Also save your money don't bother alumicoating the roof.
So that I am clear what you are telling me, instead of what OldNBroken has suggested "If the cap lifts off the edge metal it wouldn't hurt to rub a little under it before 3-coursing. 4" wide webbing is ideal and keep it just to the edge of the roof, not over the face. "
I should: For the parts that are lifting and recessing remove the existing drip edge and install new drip edge ( or possibly 1" longer in face/ over fascia over existing drip edge) where needed. Then install approx. 9" width of cap sheet over the existing cap sheet starting at end of drip edge ( or 1/4" past?) inward towards frame.

If, I reiterated that correctly can I use peel and stick mod-bit cap sheet?
I have a bunch of left-over from the recent repair. If I can use that should I 3 course the seems over the mod bit like the images I posted.

I approximated aluminum roof coating would cost about $500 for single coat and may last up to 3 years and will probably peel. I have granulated mod-bit and for the most part is still much intact and doing it's job. Although I am tempted to coat I don't think it will help much UV wise and definitely not waterproof. I do have concerns where it's lacking in granules and some alligatoring is starting. Mostly near pipes and some spots near peak.
Should they be a concern? Can I use asphalt emulsion with more granules thrown in to sort it out?

Thanks again for replies 85gt
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:44 PM   #20
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Here is a drawing of what should have been done. It shows 2 plys but for this case one ply should be fine.

http://technicaldatabase.fsbp.com/downloadFile.ashx?fileId=[fid=19073|pid=746]

I would think you could use peel and stick but you need to prime the modified cap sheet first, no matter if you do it in peel and stick or cold applied cement.

The metal should have a 3" flange or bigger on the roof, the flange also needs to be primed. You could have someone bend this flashing and make it so the old edge flashing act's as a hook strip. The edge of the sheet should run out to 1/2" of the edge.


You could get some granules and cold applied cement and cover the bare areas. Here is a link to Karnak, we generally will use their coatings, a fibered coating will last a little longer. http://www.karnakcorp.com/98AF.aspx

Also depending how you figured how much each coat covered you might be a bit low on your estimate. Granulated surfaces will take a bit more. I would a bit extra research on the aluma coating though, we have only used it on smooth asphalt roofs, some manufactures may not recommend it on granulated surfaces.
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:50 PM   #21
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That diagram helps. What pound# felt should I use as inter-ply or do I even need it?

Primer such as this http://www.tamko.com/Cements-Coating...3AsphaltPrimer before cementing or adhering down cap sheet?
Can I use this product to prime top of drip edge too?
Some areas of current drip edge has lost it tension and is bent away fro the fascia. All of recent repair area does. I should have asked him to replace it when he did it last week. He'd probably (hopefully) would do it anyway if I call him.
It hasn't rained since he did the repair, would it be okay at this point to run a hose on it and look for leaks or let the cement dry until the next rain. it's my understanding the cement never actually dries out, but does harden.

I called Karnak about 6 hours ago and spoke to a tech.I explained to him basically all the details that I originally post in here including the recent repair.
He recommended #98 over the pitched portion and #228 rubberized-aluminum coating over the flat (ponding) areas. I think I'll get a 5 gal can of the #228 (unless you recommend otherwise) and coat over bare areas and on the ponding area, give it one year of weathering and see how it holds up before investing further.
The tech also said I could use roofing adhesive + mesh and a temporary weight to glue down any areas lifting off the drip edge and should last years.
However it seems that I would benefit more by extending it 1/2" over the drip as you described
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:14 AM   #22
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1985gt or anyone else please respond. I won't have any further questions if I could get my previous post (reply) before this one answered. Hope I am not coming across as an annoying noob, just trying to get as specific as possible concerning repair and maintenance to try and get it right the first time.

As far as roofing materials I've read through this http://roofcoatings.org/wp-content/u..._Study_rev.pdf
and coatings this http://www.nationsroof.com/MODIFIED_BITUMEN_ROOFS.pdf and http://docserver.nrca.net/technical/1823.pdf and this (very informative) http://docserver.nrca.net/technical/7869.pdf

Thanks for all the replies so far. Will be doing the maintenance with the next two weeks as weather permits.
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:15 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishbone90 View Post
That diagram helps. What pound# felt should I use as inter-ply or do I even need it?

Primer such as this http://www.tamko.com/Cements-Coating...3AsphaltPrimer before cementing or adhering down cap sheet?
Can I use this product to prime top of drip edge too?
Some areas of current drip edge has lost it tension and is bent away fro the fascia. All of recent repair area does. I should have asked him to replace it when he did it last week. He'd probably (hopefully) would do it anyway if I call him.
It hasn't rained since he did the repair, would it be okay at this point to run a hose on it and look for leaks or let the cement dry until the next rain. it's my understanding the cement never actually dries out, but does harden.

I called Karnak about 6 hours ago and spoke to a tech.I explained to him basically all the details that I originally post in here including the recent repair.
He recommended #98 over the pitched portion and #228 rubberized-aluminum coating over the flat (ponding) areas. I think I'll get a 5 gal can of the #228 (unless you recommend otherwise) and coat over bare areas and on the ponding area, give it one year of weathering and see how it holds up before investing further.
The tech also said I could use roofing adhesive + mesh and a temporary weight to glue down any areas lifting off the drip edge and should last years.
However it seems that I would benefit more by extending it 1/2" over the drip as you described

You do not necessarily need to use a inter ply, if you do I would use a Self Adhered base since you plan on using a self adhered cap sheet.

The tamko primer is what we use, just be careful not to put too much on, a thin coat is all you need, it will take for ever to dry. If you can do it the day before. Yes use it on the metal edge also.

Another option would be just to cut off the face of the drip edge, this would be pretty time consuming, maybe just do it in the area's where it is buckling out.

I don't remember what you said he used for the repairs but at this point any product should be fine to water test. I just wouldn't directly spray it against a lap at high pressure. Maybe set a sprinkler on the roof that would cover the whole roof area and let it "rain" for a hour or two.

As far as the products the tech recommended I don't see why what you described wouldn't work.

If you redo the edge what he described would not be needed. The sheet should never extend past the edge, it should fall short 1/2"

No problem. Hope it works out for you. I would sit down and figure out all your costs including your time to do these "repairs" including what you paid the other guy. You may look at seeing what a roofer would cost to install a new roof. Often times we are found repairing buildings/houses when for a few $1,000 more they could have gotten a new roof. I know money is tight every where, and I can also appreciate people who like doing DIY projects. I do most everything to my house I could most likely do everything but time constraints get in the way. Plus my wife always gripes when a project isn't completed in the time she thinks it should be.


Good luck.
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:44 PM   #24
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Thanks again 1985GT.

I purchased a can of polyglass asphalt spray primer and a 3 gal can of mulehide 421 mod-bit adhesive. I'll just prime, 421 adhesive and weight the areas that are lifting (not retracted) from the drip edge.

For the areas that are retracting I will follow your suggestion using primer and adhesive on top of the drip edge. The the other seams will get 3-coursed with cement and mesh. I think the cap-sheet I have left over from the recent repair is Polyglass polyflex SA P, which may be APP and not SBS. Which raises concern of using cold applied cement and/or adhesive with it (possible early deterioration).

I may whitewash it next Spring using this method http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects.../WhiteRoof.htm I do have some concerns the hydrated lime may effect the mod-bit or seams. If I do it I will mask, goggle,glove properly as it has crystalline silica particles. I would also consider mixing in a bit of latex to the water/lime mix to prolong and neutralize it.

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