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Old 10-30-2012, 11:21 AM   #1
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Repair + roof coating options


Just got part of my roof repaired today. The repair was on a 10 year old mod-bit, hot-mopped flat roof. No leaks in home, just (two foot from frame) overhang section (side of home) that extended from bottom of pitch to the back-end of the flat roof. The entire overhang is made of wood including soffits and fascia. The gentleman I hired to repair it braced it better than it was originally using a ladder system with 2"X 6" extensions every two feet and toe nailed. The previous bracing was 2"x 2"s every 4 feet (Built 1950's, Florida). The decking had one small (3" x 3") wet rot section and some staining, but was still structurally sound. He re-used the drip edge which is still in good shape.

For the roof he tore off a one foot section from the edge towards the frame along the side of the flat roof. He used a peel and stick poly-flex cap sheet and used cold tar under the seems and on top of the seems he included mesh embedded. He ran it up the pitch about 18 inches. I am not a roofer and cannot say if he did it properly, however he walked on it and the wood working looks structurally better than it was. Although he is not a roofing contractor, he is insured, has 20 years of roofing experience, was sober, very reasonable and purchased the materials and completed the work before I paid him. He also signed a final release and waiver of lien.

There are more issues with the roof as either the roof may have not been installed properly originally or through natural expansion and contraction the flat roof edges and corners of main roof (also mod-bit, under 3/12 pitch) are about a half inch inside the drip edge, instead of being a half inch over.
To prolong the life of the roof and avoid future damage he suggested using 6" roof tape (non-butyl) along the entire perimeter of the roof. Attaching the tape to the top of the mod-bit, wrapping it over and attaching to the face of the drip edge. He also said to make it look uniform, and possibly avoid future insurance issues, to coat it with regular white paint (not roof paint). He said in his experience elastomerics are good for heat deflection, but do nothing for water-proofing and will need to be repainted every two years. Annually for ponding areas.
I am not financially prepared to get a re-roof and hopefully will get a few more years out of it.

Looking for opinions on his repair approach and his suggestion to prolong roof / avoid leaks.
Also seeking suggestions for future re-roof (including metal). He suggested TPO.

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Old 10-30-2012, 02:22 PM   #2
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Repair + roof coating options


Got some pictures?

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Old 10-30-2012, 08:05 PM   #3
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bump please
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:08 PM   #4
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Pre and post repair pics added.
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:12 PM   #5
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Repair + roof coating options


additional pics.

Post roof patch and woodwork. Also pic(s) that show old roof retracted 1/2" from drip edge on oppsite side of flat roof.

The granules in the old mod-bit are holding up well, however the hot-mopped tar has been laid a bit sloppily, but seems very secure with good overlapping.

If I were to coat this roof would an acrylic elastomeric or non- fibered aluminum/silver coat work better in mid-west coast Florida, or is it best to leave as is and hopefully get three more years out of it?
There is some ponding on the flat roof.

The new piece on the crown covers a raised area that was a prior owners attempt to shim the roof up in that one spot. There was not a leak issue there, and the man who did the recent repair did it as a prevention. He also cemented in (pic) a spot at the side of the flat roof adjoining the pitched roof. The original installer did a poor job on that spot 10 years ago.

He left the decking shown in the "before" pics in place. He initially was going to cut the black stained part out (roughly one foot in from edge) and replace with new wood. He showed me and stated it was mostly staining, but structurally sound and gave me the option of leave as is or fit in new pieces. I told him to leave it as is due to the decking will be stronger as it recedes back into the frame.
I know the proper way is to replace the original decking sheets over the bad area, but that is more expense and may cause a leak into the home if new roofing does seal right. The way he did it the worse case scenario should be another leak near the edge and not into the house.

When it does need total replacement or re-roof I will go with metal and have an increased pitch built over the flat roof for better drainage. Hopefully the new pitch can be covered with metal too, but I am sure it depends whether the pitch will start at the crown or further down.
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Old 10-31-2012, 04:21 PM   #6
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Repair + roof coating options


TPO or EPDM.
Sorry to say but what you have on there now is the lowest of the low grade roofing materials.
Going around and trying to keep up with the leaks on that material will be like playing wack a mole.
Sounds insulting, but I have yet to see a roof with that low a slope that did not leak after a few years with roll roofing.
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:33 PM   #7
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Thanks for the reply. I can't be insulted by knoweldge that I didn't possess at the time (2002) and barely possess now. I am not a roofer and only recently acquiring knowlede out of necessity, so I'll have a better understanding when it's time to re-roof.
The original roof was put down in 2002 and has not had any issues to this point inside the house. If they did a better job initially leaving a 1/2" overhanging the drip edge with the mod-bit, I doubt if there would be any issues. But it is what it is and until I must bite the bullet I won't (two cliches in one sentence!!!)

The man who did the patch and woodworking charged $400 for labor and materials. The knowledge I gained by watching him has worth too, because I will do it myself if his patch holds well and if the need arises.
I have plenty left over roll,patch cement and mesh.

What I am hoping for is replies that contain comments/opinions on the his patch job and recommendations pro or con for coating granulated SBS mod-bit. Would prefer to have responses from only those that are not trying to pimp a product or sell me a roof.
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:41 PM   #8
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Someone, Anyone please respond.
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
TPO or EPDM.
Sorry to say but what you have on there now is the lowest of the low grade roofing materials.
Going around and trying to keep up with the leaks on that material will be like playing wack a mole.
Sounds insulting, but I have yet to see a roof with that low a slope that did not leak after a few years with roll roofing.

That's a mopped on cap sheet, not a nailed down home depot 90 # cap.

I've you have never seen a bur with a cap sheet not leak on a low slope roof I feel bad for the people in your area.


@op Answered the question in the other forum. Also the pictures here were better and I would encourage the use of a single ply or a properly installed hot asphalt roof when the time comes.


I assume the ponding area is where the two slopes meet? Look in to some tappered crickets for this area to properly drain the roof.
Oh yeah and again, don't waste your money on a coating.
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:08 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1985gt View Post
That's a mopped on cap sheet, not a nailed down home depot 90 # cap.

I've you have never seen a bur with a cap sheet not leak on a low slope roof I feel bad for the people in your area.


@op Answered the question in the other forum. Also the pictures here were better and I would encourage the use of a single ply or a properly installed hot asphalt roof when the time comes.


I assume the ponding area is where the two slopes meet? Look in to some tappered crickets for this area to properly drain the roof.
Oh yeah and again, don't waste your money on a coating.
Yes, the original was hot-mopped mod-bit cap to mechanically fastened base (not sure if single or double ply). I had 3 roofing contractors and 3 craigslist jobbers give an estimate on the recent repair. All 3 contractors said the existing roof, other than edges over the drip edge on the flat roof, looks to be in good condition and should last a few more years. I ended up going with the CL jobber because he was $800 less than the contractors quotes. He did explain his background in roofing, provided insurance and answered all my questions about his course of action before he started and while he was doing the repair.

After reviewing the pics here would you say the man I hired for the repair did it right? I researched the company that makes the peel and stick mod-bit he used and it states a 20 year warranty (which I know means nothing in my case). The peel and stick and cement PG-500 he used is from Polyglass.
I will stay away from coating it but would like to figure out something for the retracted (by 1/2") roofing on top of the drip edge. He suggested wrapping 6" roof tape from the top of the roof around and to the face of the drip edge. I don't think it'll hold to the old mod-bit. Can I feather in cement? I am more concerned about function than the aesthetics at this point.

I can't comment on what the standards are for low-slope roofing are here. Shingles and metals roofs are definitely the majority for he homes. As I stated previously I am about 99% sure I will go with metal + increase the slope over the flat when the time comes to roof-over or replace.
However, which single ply or best way to hot-mop do you recommend?

I searched tapered crickets and found this That would be a good way to resolve the ponding area if I don't increase the slope or chose to only roof-over the flat deck portion of my home.

Thank You for responding here and in the other forum.

Last edited by Fishbone90; 11-02-2012 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 11-02-2012, 03:49 PM   #11
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You keep saying the edge is retracting. You are incorrect in your conclusion as well as your solution.

Properly done BUR is supposed to terminate on the roof with the edge metal. If taken apart you will find the metal is sandwiched in between the ply sheets and the cap sheet.

If you are having perimeter issues and the rest of the roof is still in good repair all that is necessary is 3-coursing the perimeter with webbing and a good mastic (I would recommend an SBS modified). Once done you can coat the exposed asphalt with non-fibered aluminum.

That is also the way you will repair anything in the field that arises in the future.

Don't know what all this talk about flat roofs ALWAYS leaking is. Like anything else, it's only as good as the installer and flat roofs like that require higher quality installers is all.
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:55 PM   #12
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Thanks for your reply OldNBroken. I was told by two roofing contractors recently, that during the initial install 10 years ago that the metal drip edge was not primed correctly and is the reason the roof did not adhere and recessed. This recess is only happening on both sides of the flat deck located at the back of my home. The roof on the rest of the home including the back of the flat deck is even or a 1/4" past the drip edge.
Not sure their statements of not priming the drip edge is correct, because it only happened on two sections and not the whole perimeter. Anyway, at this point I just want to try and seal per your suggestion. I have a lot of Polyglass PG-500 roof cement and mesh, will this be okay to use?

Have you applied aluminum coating over hot-mopped mod-bit?
If so, how long does it last, does it waterproof, brand?
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:02 PM   #13
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Bad or no priming very well could be the problem. Still it is easily repaired as described above.

As far as aluminum coat goes, the only thing it is is a UV protectant for the the asphalt. It extends the life of the roof. No, it is not waterproof and does flake off. Inspect every two or three years and simply clean off debris and re-coat. It is cheap and easy to apply and for this purpose brand name is not a major issue. Just make sure you mix well before applying as the base and the aluminum do separate in the can.
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:21 PM   #14
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Not trying to be redundant, but will the cement and mesh I have work well enough? How far should I overlap onto the top of the mod-bit and how far past drip edge?

I like painting and it's nice and cool now. Can put my 16 year old son to work too. Roller,Push broom,or Squeegee for application?
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:39 PM   #15
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Yes it will work fine. If the cap lifts off the edge metal it wouldn't hurt to rub a little under it before 3-coursing. 4" wide webbing is ideal and keep it just to the edge of the roof, not over the face. Wear dish gloves or double up on latex surgical gloves and dig in.

As far as the kids go, I've had mine working with me much younger than that and these are perfectly fine tasks for them to get dirty with...as long as they have good balance.

BTW, TPO is the rolled-roofing of single-ply membranes


Last edited by OldNBroken; 11-02-2012 at 06:42 PM.
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