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-   -   Repair or Replace Roof-to-Wall flashing (http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/repair-replace-roof-wall-flashing-97719/)

Learn as i go 03-08-2011 06:06 PM

Repair or Replace Roof-to-Wall flashing
 
5 Attachment(s)
Hi, i have a leak coming from the intersection of my sunroom roof and the vertical wall to the top floor. At the moment, there's metal flashing all along that intersection except for the length beneath 3 bedroom windows... that has rubber tape flashing. rather than describe it in excruciating detail, i've attached some photos:

1st photo: to give you context
2nd: edge of the roof (flashing should extend further out?)
3rd: metal flashing laps over rubber flashing by about 6 inches
4th: shows rubber flashing extending into 1-2" gap under window sill
5th: my quick-fix during the storm (towel tucked under window sill, with plastic extended from shingles into window covering the area that looked like the culprit)

now, my quick-fix actually stopped the dripping in the sunroom, so i'm pretty sure that's where THAT leak was coming from (not sure if there's another one that hasn't shown up inside yet). i originally thought it was the flashing being bent up by the wind, in combination with some unsealed nail holes, but i actually think the bigger problem was where the rubber flashing stops under the window sill. whatever was used to seal that seam was starting to crack. i put some silicone there (and many other spots) for the moment.

my main question is how would you go about fixing this. i've done a bunch of research and read many conflicting opinions about how to do this type of flashing. i know that the flashing under the windows should've been extended into the window opening before the windows were installed, but i'm not taking out the windows, so i'm wondering what's my best option there.

some things i'm wondering about are whether i should patch everything up with a bunch of cement/tape/silicone and only do a replacement during a full roof replacement down the line, or if i should completely replace all the flashing (or just the rubber) now, and if replace, whether i should be using step-flashing or long 10' lengths of L-flashing... and also whether to go over or under shingles, whether to nail to the roof or to the wall (or both), how to seal between the top of any under-window flashing and the sill (tape, cement, silicone... combination of those).

sorry i wasn't able to keep my post short, but i'd appreciate any help. thanks.

Roofmaster417 03-08-2011 10:26 PM

That would be called an apron.Typically it is installed up behind the siding and J-channel.Some repairs are easy and it all depends on how far up behind the siding it goes.You can remove 2 courses of shingles the full length post to post.(corner posts of the siding)

I usually pull the J channel and pop the 1st piece of siding off the track.Loosen it don't remove it.Then remove the apron.I allow 4" on the roof deck and 4" up the wall.The metal should be broke(bent) to set firmly to the wall as well as the roof deck.

I would call and get an estimate for this unless you have prior roofing experience.

Learn as i go 03-09-2011 08:36 AM

Thanks for the reply. Just to clarify, are you saying the apron is just the rubber flashing, or both the rubber and metal along the entire length of the roof? if it's just the rubber, then i wouldn't need to loosen anything except the edges of the metal L-flashing that it's pinned under. it doesn't really go up the wall at all... just TO the wall under the windows, where someone used cement or something to seal the seam (and it's cracking now). Any new flashing can't go 4" inches up the wall because the window sills are less than 2" from the roof. i can bend some L-flashing or step flashing to fit under the windows so that it goes up the wall to the sill and seal the seam there with cement or silicone. that would at least raise the seam more than an inch above the roof and make it extremely difficult for water to get to it... right now, the rain just needs to be a bit horizontal to hit the cracking seam.

as for the rest of the flashing, it seems that all i really need to do extend the flashing out beyond the edge of the roof and add a kickout diverter. if anyone has suggestions for that, i'd be interested to hear.

for right now, it looks like we're in for another 3" of rain here in MD today, so i'm just going to keep my plastic-wrap "tarp" there... hopefully i'll get some verification that the source of the leak showing up in the sunroom is under that far right window. roof repairs will come this weekend.

1985gt 03-09-2011 11:54 AM

The rubber is not really a flashing, its there because the "roofer" was lazy and didnt want to do as Roofmaster said. Should be the "L" shaped metal across the whole wall of hte house. Carfully trimmed and fitted along the windows. You do have to remove or loosen the siding to do this properly other wise the wate might be able to get in behind the siding and flashing. Its not really alot of work its technical work. Too many people think they can do roofing then they find them selfs in over there head. Instead of chewing crow and having someone do it right they fudge thier way around it.

Learn as i go 03-09-2011 01:19 PM

1 Attachment(s)
thanks for the info. so i'll need to tuck the flashing in behind the siding and j-channel, but does the flashing need to also go behind the sheathing paper? i assume the bottom edge of the paper is behind the siding and within 3-4 inches of the roof. would i tape that seam or use a sealant?

also, i'd read that soldering is best, but would some roofing cement be good enough for where one piece of metal laps over another? and same question for how to seal the space between the top of the flashing and the bottom of the window sills... i assume some roofing cement would be better than silicone?

not sure whether i'm going to replace the entire wall of flashing or just the rubber section, but do you think i should at least add a kickout diverter flashing to each end of the wall? seems like what's showing in the 2nd photo above and the one attached here aren't correct.

one more quick question: is the aluminum angle flashing here the right product to use (i'd probably have to reduce that 120 degree angle a bit):
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Materials/h_d1/N-5yc1vZaqns/R-100081760/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

thanks again!

1985gt 03-10-2011 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Learn as i go (Post 606051)
thanks for the info. so i'll need to tuck the flashing in behind the siding and j-channel, but does the flashing need to also go behind the sheathing paper? i assume the bottom edge of the paper is behind the siding and within 3-4 inches of the roof. would i tape that seam or use a sealant?
Yes behind the paper if there is any. You wouldnt need to tape or caulk it as the water will run off easy on the vertical surface.

also, i'd read that soldering is best, but would some roofing cement be good enough for where one piece of metal laps over another? and same question for how to seal the space between the top of the flashing and the bottom of the window sills... i assume some roofing cement would be better than silicone?


Yes soldering is the best, but you cant solder aluminum or prefinished steel. No on the roofing cement, Use a good caulking like NP or Vulcem.

not sure whether i'm going to replace the entire wall of flashing or just the rubber section, but do you think i should at least add a kickout diverter flashing to each end of the wall? seems like what's showing in the 2nd photo above and the one attached here aren't correct.

Yes something needs to be done there, they left a hole.

one more quick question: is the aluminum angle flashing here the right product to use (i'd probably have to reduce that 120 degree angle a bit):
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Materials/h_d1/N-5yc1vZaqns/R-100081760/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053


The link didnt work and a quick search of the HD site I didnt see anything that could be used. You might want to try having someone build it as the leg on the roof looks to be about 6" and the leg against the wall should be atleast that.


thanks again!


Your welcome, and good luck

Roofmaster417 03-10-2011 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1985gt (Post 606688)
Your welcome, and good luck


Very informative,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I agree


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