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WaldenL 08-24-2009 11:14 AM

Removing Plumbing Vent from Roof
Yes, this is a roofing question, not a plumbing question. :)

We've removed the need for a secondary vent in our system and the interior vent pipe is all cut away (pic 1) but we now need to get rid of the vent from the roof. How do I go about doing this? The vent comes up through a boot and is (somewhat) accessible on the roof. (pic 2 & 3). Do I simply pull the pipe up trough the boot, loosen the nails in the surrounding shingles and slide a new shingle up in there and then nail is all back down? Do I need to somehow fill in the 4" hole from the vent pipe?

Also, any good ideas on how to get the shingles? We had the roof redone 2 years ago, but I have no extra shingles (lesson for next time: keep extras!). Should I just call the roofer and have him do it? I'd imagine it's like a 10 minute job for someone that knows what they're doing.

Michael Thomas 08-24-2009 11:26 AM

Is there is some pressing reason to remove it?

If not, why not just cap it off, and then remove it, repair the sheathing, and shingle over the repair the next time you re-roof?

WaldenL 08-24-2009 11:39 AM


Originally Posted by Michael Thomas (Post 318685)
Is there is some pressing reason to remove it?

If not, why not just cap it off, and then remove it, repair the sheathing, and shingle over the repair the next time you re-roof?

No pressing reason to remove it, and if we were going to reroof in the next couple of years that's exactly what I'd do. But (hopefully) the next roof will be 20+ years away (and not our problem. :))

How would one cap it anyway? Just a 4" PVC cap glued to the top?

Slyfox 08-24-2009 12:46 PM

I charge a minimum of $75.00 service charge, and if you were in my regular work area that's all I would charge to do this, so you should at least call your roofer and get a price.

If you have to purchase a bundle of shingles that it's self will cost you $20.00 too $30.00 bucks depending on prices in your area.

You only need 3 shingles. Should have at least 6 in case you damage any additional ones when removing the existing.
A piece of 10" x 10" heavier gauge metal 'to cover hole'.
A hand full of roofing nails at least 1 1/4" long.

You have to take the shingle below the pipe that the pipe boot is nailed into,
the shingle cut around the pipe and the shingle at the top of the pipe that has roof cement on it.
you will need to remove the nails from the shingle one higher 'above' the top shingle touching the pipe so you can place the new one properly under it.
Be careful when lifting the lower portions of the shingles to get to the nails, they have a self sealer strip on them and you do not want to rip the shingle.

If you were to decide to leave it in tact as is, the 'rubber' cap you need to cover the pipe can be purchased at most hardware, lumber and plumbing stores. It's a simple rubber cap that slides on and can be clamped to stay in place.

Michael Thomas 08-24-2009 01:41 PM

A PVC cap would also be fine. If you wished you could just pressure-fit it, that stack is no longer "plumbing".

WaldenL 08-24-2009 02:30 PM

Thanks all! I grabbed a PVC cap at lunch and sent my son up to put it on, he didn't have to get off the ladder, just set it on top -- he loved it! :thumbsup:

I'll likely call the roofer for a more permenant fix, but this way we won't have a shower in the kitchen next time it rains. :laughing:

Oh, and 3" not 4", I must have been drunk. I came to my senses when I say how large 4" PVC is.

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