removing nails from unsealed shingles (made a mistake but the weather is cold...)
Having spent 2 months correcting a saggy old 22' x 12' (16"oc/plywood sheathing) patio roof that was roofed over last year before I bought the home, I've recently replaced the shoddy metal roofing backdoor overhang adjacent to the porch roof, extending the patio overhang to make a grand total of around 30'x12'.
I spent ample time refreshing my brain on order of material installation (having worked with roofing crews many moons ago), however, I misread nail placement. I'm not all the way done, having made it about 1 1/2 bundles up the extension.
I'm so broke from a year of projects that I cannot even afford another bundle of shingles right now. With that in mind, I'd be interested in feedback on a few scenarios:
Fortunately, its about 55 during the day and 25 at night, so the tar has yet to seal. I can reach the nails from below the sheathing, any experienced advice appreciated! would it be better to:
A) tap the nails out, refelt, and renail shingles properly? If this is best option, would it be best to use cement over the old holes? The improper nailing is 2" down from the top edge so the nail holes would be very well covered.
B) tap the nails from below sideways so they cant popup down the road, and carefully hand nail in nails in proper location? in 55 degree weather, shingles are pliable, though they havent sealed.
c) Neither of the above, instead use roofing cement at the tabs and properly nail the remaining shingles?
If this was above the main house I would be redoing, no questions asked. Given that this is exterior roofing and I broke, I seek yall's wisdom.
I'm not even sure what it is your asking.
Forgot to put down tar paper?
Not enough nails? Ok so what type shingles are they, how many nails did you use, and where did you place them?
All that info is right on the package and on line on the manufactures web site.
Fair enough- I was racing the clock to wrap up that post before I left work. 3 tab 25 year shingles. Drip edge and felt, everything spot on except nail placement, which as it goes the install instructions do not mention placing nail below tar line and above the saddle (the picture explanation of nailing 1.5-2" from the left and right ends gives the impression that nails are to be driven that distance from the top of the shingles).
To better elaborate- nails are 2" from the top, about 3" above the tar strip (about 10" above bottom edge of tabs). I'm in nashville where it gets windy, though this side of the house is on leyward side of where storms come in... My question boils down to- given where nails are placed (it's about a 7x5' area and I have another 7x 5' to go which will be nailed properly which I'm holding off on until I figure out the best move here). I don't mind carefully removing nails and renailing unless this is a big no no. I'd basically have to redo later as buying 2 bundles of shingles is not in the budget. I could either remove nails and renail properly (and cement nail holes from where I removed improperly placed nails) or leave those nails be, drive in nails in proper locale where possible, and buy a little time by putting roofing cement under tabs, as they have not set in tar because it's been cold...
Quick follow up- having gotten home and taken a better look, nailing in the proper locale with shingles in place is unrealistic, and due to the fact that each shingle only has 4 not 8 nails holding it down, this needs to be redone. The lesson I try to follow and regret when I don't- rushing something is a big mistake (in my defense, time and weather were big factors). Now that money is the biggest factor, what I plan on doing is carefully removing nails (4per shingle), refelting, properly nailing in shingles and putting a dab of cement over the nail holes before installing the next course working up (I.e. the nail holes will be well covered by the overlapping shingle). If this sounds like a horrible idea please chime in!
These are brand new shingles that due to the cold weather have not sealed to each other yet, making careful removal possible. Unfortunately the only option available, as waiting until mid Decembers paycheck would be more potentially problematic...
#1 The roof should not have been even started until you have all the shingles need for the job on hand.
Exposed tar paper it going to wrinkle if it's even exposed to morning dew.
Three tab shingles get 4 nails not 8.
There's no reason to remove the nails you have in already, and there no reason you can not just gently lift up what you have down and add the nails where they were suppose to be.
Please tell me you installed the first row turned around to act as a starter strip and left around 1" of over hang at the bottom and at least 3/8 on the rake.
It should be easy to lift the tabs and add more nails if it hasn't sealed, as joe stated.
If you cant nail below the tar line, try to nail half in half out. If you can get the head half in the tar, it will still seal and be low enough.
Thanks much for the input. All in all I lucked out- I would have finished up the small roofing job yesterday but stopped halfway as I wondered how it is these shingles would seal if its not getting hot enough outside... My research led me to discover its not a bad idea to use a dab of roofing cement at the corner of each tab (just above the tar), and during this research I soon noticed many photos revealing the proper nail location (poorly displayed on manufacturers bundles) and thus had my temporary oh **** moment... When I checked last night the shingles did not seem like they would at all cooperate with being lifted, which had to do with the 25 degree temp (an FYI for any non-roofers taking on a project). Sure enough, this morning's 40 degree temp made it a piece of cake to carefully sneak nails in just below the tar while leaving enough overlap room. Glad I saw your post this morning! Much easier than starting over.
As per 8 nails- I meant 8 nails total holding each shingle down when considering the nails from the next course up will also be going through each shingle (i.e 4 nails properly placed below the tar line, and 4 nails from the shingles that will overlap). This is mentioned on the roofing forum, in a chat that mentions how uninformed folk like myself often make the assumption that the higher the better to nail, so as to leave less of a chance for water to reach the nail hole. In doing so, the nails from the next course up don't do the thing they're supposed to, which is lend holding power. In addition, this is how shingles blow off because by nailing it high will slightly prop up the tabs at the bottom which can interfere with sealing, coupled with leaving all that extra unfastened/unsealed space to lift up when the wind finally shows up...
This sure made since as soon as I read it (halfway through my small project), though its easy enough to overlook because the job was looking sharp otherwise. All other de-facto installation processes and nailing schedules were adhered to- starter course, drip edge, overhang, clean lines and a proper tie-in to a horizontal and vertical edge.
What should have been the most simple facet nearly cost me certain headache down the road, lesson learned!
Go gentle with a small prybar. Add addition nails at the little tar line in the middle of shingle.
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:08 AM.|
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.