DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   Roofing/Siding (http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/)
-   -   Remove Pipe Vent from Asphalt Shingle Roof (http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/remove-pipe-vent-asphalt-shingle-roof-53775/)

WaldenL 09-25-2009 01:33 PM

Remove Pipe Vent from Asphalt Shingle Roof
 
With a kitchen remodel we no longer need a vent in the small roof over the extension. The vent is question is shown below, and I've capped it (not in pic) so we don't get rain in it, since it's cut off below the roof from inside. But I would obviously prefer to just remove it and put shingles in there. So... how do I go about doing this?

I can imagine I'll need to remove all the cut shingles and the vent and boot and then I can fill the 3" hole in the plywood somehow, right? But how do I go about removing the shingles so I can put new ones in there, and how do I get the new shingles where the vent used to be nailed down? Since this is a repair I'll have the upper courses of shingle laid in already, so I can't nail under them. Shouldn't the nails in a shingle be covered by the course above? Do I just carefully pull back the flap on the upper course and nail as high as possible? Then cover the nail head w/what? Is there some type of waterproof gunk?

Oh, and am I nuts to hope that I can take one of the removed/cut shingles to Lowes or HD and find a match? I don't have any leftover shingles*. Roof is maybe 1 years old.

Thx.

http://www.waldenl.com/diy/roof2.jpg

*Note to self: Always keep extra shingles when having roof redone. :mad:

Slyfox 09-25-2009 06:10 PM

Yes, they will be able to match the material by bringing a piece to them, but, stores like lowes and home depot normally only carry one brand of shingles and if it's not the one you have than the match is not going to be perfect. Find a local shingle supplier like ABC.
You will need a flat bar, claw hammer and roofing nails, most any hardware store will have them.
The flat bar will slide under the shingle to the fastener, than you'll pry up gently and remove the fastener. Each shingle should have at least 4 fasteners. Once you removed all shingles that touch the pipe flashing, one at bottom, one at the side and one at the top, you can remove the pipe and it's flashing. With a hole that small it would be much easier for a diy'r to simply purchase a 12' x 12" piece of heavy gauged metal when you purchase the flat bar, place the metal with an equal amount on either side of the hole, nail it down with 1 1/4" roof nails and than reinstall the shingles.

When you place the new shingles and they go under the one above it, you can gently lift the bottom end of that above shingle to get your roofing nails in, thus there is no need for caulking or other sealers.
If you do end up with exposed nails some how, cover them lighlty with roof cement, you'll see it while your on the roof but not from ground level, of course the best way is to take your time and not have any exposed nails.

The hole in the sheathing will be a little larger than the the pipe itself, the only way to repair the hole with lumber would be to pull additional shingles up and cut a minimum of one foot below and above the hole height wise and width wise go to the nearest truss on either side of the pipe.

bronco2 09-25-2009 08:44 PM

Good answer Slyfox. Not to question you or anything but couldnt you take some plywood and rip it into a 4" strip x 6" long and feed it under the existing sheeting on the top and bottom and the sides if you want to be fussy and screw the strips in from the top side of existing sheeting leaving 2" hanging out. Then cut a piece of plywood to fit the hole and screw it around the perimeter and wholla your hole is filled and should be stronger than the sheet metal.

WaldenL 09-25-2009 10:37 PM

Seems simple enough. Appreciate the answers!

Slyfox 09-26-2009 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bronco2 (Post 332607)
Good answer Slyfox. Not to question you or anything but couldnt you take some plywood and rip it into a 4" strip x 6" long and feed it under the existing sheeting on the top and bottom and the sides if you want to be fussy and screw the strips in from the top side of existing sheeting leaving 2" hanging out. Then cut a piece of plywood to fit the hole and screw it around the perimeter and wholla your hole is filled and should be stronger than the sheet metal.

Yes you could and yes it would be stronger but with a hole of that size all the work of filling it in with lumber would be an over kill.
With the metal and the shingle covering that small of a hole a 188 pound man like myself you step directly on that spot with my size 9 foot and it would not even dip in. thus no way is snow, ice, rain, etc., going to be a problem setting on or running across it.

In a re-roof situation I would replace the section of lumber,
in a repair situation I would do as I said above with the metal.

AaronB 09-26-2009 01:46 PM

Search the internet for EZ Plug. I am 330 pounds and this thing didnt even budge under all that pressure. It is designed for closing roof vent holes, but I am sure it will work here, too. LAst I checked they were under 15 bucks.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:47 AM.


Copyright 2003-2014 Escalate Media LP. All Rights Reserved