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Old 12-06-2012, 07:48 PM   #16
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Recommendations for roof type when reroof


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Originally Posted by 1985gt View Post
Reasons not to install shingles: Voids warranty, product not ment for low slopes, will wear out 2X or more faster on low slope roofs.
Does installing shingles really void warranty? The roofers who gave me quotes plus looking up one manufacturer's installation document on shingles online (forget exact site/URL) state that if you install the shingles properly, it will be warranteed by the manufacturer. And the proper installation for 2:12 low slope roofs call for 2 layers of felt underlayment (and I think some may call for ice & water barrier at the lower end of roof).

Granted I suppose one can question whether the manufacturer will abide by that installation procedure they list in the document, or if they'll try to wiggle out of the warranty guarantee when you file a claim.

Just wanted more insight on that.

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Old 12-06-2012, 08:01 PM   #17
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Recommendations for roof type when reroof


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Originally Posted by Windows on Wash View Post
Have you considered metal?
Yes, I am considering that option as well. For case of metal, what's good? Standing seam vs metal shingles?

I had interest in that a while back and consulted 2 roofers about it when they assessed my roof for a bid.

One didn't offer metal roofing. The other did and gave a bid quote that included metal options: I was quoted around $12k for highest grade asphalt shingles, $15k for metal shingles, and $27.5k for standing seem metal roof.

Not sure about the other low slope roofing options, will have to check with my local roofers, but for metal at least, I think I'll have less selection of roofers to go by. Seems in northern California, for residential roofing, asphalt shingle is most popular. I have seen homes in my area with asphalt shingles, architectural shingles, wood shake, tile, and tar & gravel. With shingles being most dominant. I don't think I've seen the other low slope roofing options or metal roofing on residential homes unless they look so much like shingle or tar & gravel. So I might have harder time finding roofers who do those roofs.

Last edited by daluu; 12-06-2012 at 08:03 PM. Reason: clarifications
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:24 PM   #18
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Recommendations for roof type when reroof


why would you hear rain more on a metal roofed house. Proper insulation and laying the metal on top of the current roof will cut out all excess noise. and in most cases the roof will last longer then shingles or torch down
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:55 PM   #19
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Recommendations for roof type when reroof


Metal shingles also have a slope requirement, you would not typically do metal shingle on 2/12. I would go standing seam on the low slope and metal shingle on the 4/12. If you want it matching, i think your looking at SS on the whole thing. I am not aware of a low slope metal shingle.

A "metal shingle" usually refers to a certain type of metal roofing that simulates composition type materials.

A "metal shake" is a wood shake look a like.

A"metal tile" is a concrete tile look. Lower in profile to the spanish tile look.

There are also some metal roofs that simulate the clay S tile look, like Dura Loc Continental, Metro Roman, Decra Villa ect...

If you need a metal roofer your in a good location. You have access to a lot of experienced metal folks. Back in the very early 80's, metal roofing exploded in your area, it was introduced in 78 to 79 in Sacramento so i am sure they branched out to your location by 80-81. A lot of those folks are still working in your neck of the woods. At one time or another they probably all worked for Cal Pac Roofing, who was the driving force for metal back then. You had two choices then, Decra or Gerard...now you have probably more than 40 choices.
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:20 PM   #20
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Recommendations for roof type when reroof


Same Thing
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:37 PM   #21
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Recommendations for roof type when reroof


You can use metal roofing as long as you use an architectural standing seam metal roof with sealant in the ribs, and you use something like EPDM in the valleys below the metal or high temperature ice dams flashing as secondary protection. with all the valleys you have you are talking $1200.00 bucks a square or so.

You can use Mod bit all over, but it is does not look very good, unless you flood coat and gravel it, then it looks pretty good with white chip surfacing. use SBS mopped in special steep asphalt (Type 4) in two plys over a nailed G2 Base sheet . Use a torch down APP if you want to burn your house down

The mod bit is probably your best bet for a leak free long lasting roof. There are a lot of options, it all depends on how deep your pockets are.

I would not mix roof types in any case.
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Old 12-07-2012, 06:09 AM   #22
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Recommendations for roof type when reroof


Quote:
Originally Posted by daluu View Post
Yes, I am considering that option as well. For case of metal, what's good? Standing seam vs metal shingles?

I had interest in that a while back and consulted 2 roofers about it when they assessed my roof for a bid.

One didn't offer metal roofing. The other did and gave a bid quote that included metal options: I was quoted around $12k for highest grade asphalt shingles, $15k for metal shingles, and $27.5k for standing seem metal roof.

Not sure about the other low slope roofing options, will have to check with my local roofers, but for metal at least, I think I'll have less selection of roofers to go by. Seems in northern California, for residential roofing, asphalt shingle is most popular. I have seen homes in my area with asphalt shingles, architectural shingles, wood shake, tile, and tar & gravel. With shingles being most dominant. I don't think I've seen the other low slope roofing options or metal roofing on residential homes unless they look so much like shingle or tar & gravel. So I might have harder time finding roofers who do those roofs.
Given the low pitch, I was thinking of standing seam when I said metal.

If you use the right lock type, you can run it in 0:12 applications.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyWRS View Post
Metal shingles also have a slope requirement, you would not typically do metal shingle on 2/12. I would go standing seam on the low slope and metal shingle on the 4/12. If you want it matching, i think your looking at SS on the whole thing. I am not aware of a low slope metal shingle.

A "metal shingle" usually refers to a certain type of metal roofing that simulates composition type materials.

A "metal shake" is a wood shake look a like.

A"metal tile" is a concrete tile look. Lower in profile to the spanish tile look.

There are also some metal roofs that simulate the clay S tile look, like Dura Loc Continental, Metro Roman, Decra Villa ect...

If you need a metal roofer your in a good location. You have access to a lot of experienced metal folks. Back in the very early 80's, metal roofing exploded in your area, it was introduced in 78 to 79 in Sacramento so i am sure they branched out to your location by 80-81. A lot of those folks are still working in your neck of the woods. At one time or another they probably all worked for Cal Pac Roofing, who was the driving force for metal back then. You had two choices then, Decra or Gerard...now you have probably more than 40 choices.
+1

Decra's mins are usually 3/4:12 even with the newer systems.
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:27 AM   #23
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Recommendations for roof type when reroof


You can do anything you want, it does not mean that it wont leak though. Anyone that runs a metal roof dead level is a fool.
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:56 AM   #24
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Recommendations for roof type when reroof


Quote:
Originally Posted by daluu View Post
Does installing shingles really void warranty? The roofers who gave me quotes plus looking up one manufacturer's installation document on shingles online (forget exact site/URL) state that if you install the shingles properly, it will be warranteed by the manufacturer. And the proper installation for 2:12 low slope roofs call for 2 layers of felt underlayment (and I think some may call for ice & water barrier at the lower end of roof).

Granted I suppose one can question whether the manufacturer will abide by that installation procedure they list in the document, or if they'll try to wiggle out of the warranty guarantee when you file a claim.

Just wanted more insight on that.
Some it will, if you have bad ventilation it will too, manufactures will try to get out of it some of the time, if they are not installed correctly ect. One thing with commercial style roofs is most of the manufactures wont warranty them on residential (there are a few who do) but, if you get a good contractor their warranty might be a bit better.

For example like us, we will offer a 10 year on most residential flat roofs or we will offer a inspection program for $XXX.XX a year, as long as the home owner keeps up on the inspection each year the roof will be warrantied for that year, up to XX years. I find this is better because then you have someone look at your roof ever year and you can keep "track" of it. It also includes minor touch up as needed. Either way you pay for the "warranty" another good thing about this is say on a epdm roof, 5-15 year roof on a 60 mil is all the same details and such.

Another option that works really well on your house is a hot mopped asphalt roof as mentioned before but instead of a smooth cap sheet put on a granulated cap sheet. It's not quite as good as a smooth cap and rock but it looks nice if done right, or you could alway up marble chips instead of lime stone, this looks nice but is expensive.
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Old 12-07-2012, 02:23 PM   #25
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Recommendations for roof type when reroof


I think that there are a lot of you guys out there that are under a drastic misconception about metal roof systems and warranties. I was a Butler weathertite gold inspector, and at that time they (Butler) was the only metal roofing manufacturer that had a leak free FULL SYSTEM warranty.

The other manufacturers warranted against leaks through the panels. (Not the ribs, or flashings or other accessories.) THROUGH THE METAL PANELS. BIG DEAL

Honest, Im not kidding. READ THE WARRANTY

They did this because they did not have control of every aspect of the installation like Butler did. Many parts were third party, like screws, sealant etc. Butler actually had little tiny balls in their sealant to prevent it from being squeezed out of a lapped seam. Their installers had to go through an extensive intensive installation course. (Same one I went through) Very impressive.

Thats why they cost more

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