Re-Roof - Pics Inside - Also Have Question

BigNiner19

Started last Tuesday on re-roofing my home. Got all my materials and got down to stripping. Replaced all rotten wood, and cleaned everything up. Dried in with 30# felt and did the 2x2 drip edge. Started laying shingles, and everything seems to be coming together pretty nicely for the most part. The first couple pictures are pictures of nails that were shot with a nail gun that are showing through a shingle. I know this is supposed to be avoided, but I'm wondering whether I should worry about it or not since the nails are ring shank and stuck really good, or if there is something I can do about this at this point. Dont want any leaks, obviously...experts please chime in.

After that are just some random pictures of the job to this point.

Here you can see some of the nails im talking about:







There arent many spots where this happened, but it did happen in a couple spots, just wondering if I should worry about it or not, or if there is something I can do about it.

kwikfishron

I’d replace the few shingles.

You’re nailing too low, you’re suppose to be nailing between the colored lines.

__________________

BigNiner19

You can see in this pic that I am nailing them between the colored lines. It just so happened that 3 or 4 times someone nailed slightly below that and those are the pictures of them above.

OldNBroken

Do you own stock in the button-cap manufacturer?

Shiners are never a good thing to see. Not too tough to fix that though.

BigNiner19

Tin tags are used a plenty to South Florida building code.

Do they make colored roof cement that I could cover over those nail heads? I'd prefer not to take that black roof cement!

kwikfishron

Almost every nail I see in that pic is on or below the line.

__________________

kwikfishron

In pic #6 it looks like you ran the felt vertical (that’s a no no) and you nailed the the flashing down to the felt.

You are installing new step flashing, right?

__________________

MJW

Why use gutter flashing for roof edge on the rakes?
Cap nails are way overkill... wow!

Chances are, those nails will never leak. I agree with replacing them though or at least some caulking on them.

Ron, I think you are seeing the dormer flashing there, take another look.

Timberlines only have one nailing line and it's in the center (or close) of the 3/4" nailing line. Usually with their poor shingle production, the line is way off or sometimes not even visible. The nail should be on the area where the two laminates overlap. It appears like your shingles are a little high on the lines.

Also, where is the flashing for the pipes?

You should have told your help to slow down a bit. That is some very poor nailing (in every pic).
Sorry, just sayin'.

BigNiner19

Wow, very critical around here! Only had one question I think.

The cap nails are overkill but it is code in South Florida, NOTHING a roofer can do about it.

Gutter flashing? I have 2 X 2 drip edge covering all the edges of the entire roof, that is standard.

All my other flashing is in tact and two spots on those gable corners replaced.

The flashing for the pipes is under there. Goes over pipe, covered in bull and shingled cut to fit. Totally leak proof.

Yes I agree, my helper should have gone a bit slower...but everything looks to be well in tact. 6 Nails for every shingle. Just need to cover up the 5 or 6 nails that are out in the open.

Do they make a roof cement in a similar color as my shingle, that would work? I agree...I dont think they would ever leak...but if I put a dab of roof cement over the nail head, it wont ever leak.

Cory

johnk

Use a good silicone(np1) for the exposed nails and sweep up some loose granules and imbed them in silicone.

Slyfox

I see a couple issues that would have me cursing on the roof, BUT,
for a diy project you did a good job.

1. Check the face side of your pipe flashing's, they really should be left open rather than having the shingles cut around them.

2. Check your L flashing's on the walls, chimney, etc., they should have been bulled 'tarred' prior to installing the shingles.

3. It will take you a few minutes to bull those exposed nails,
it will take 15 or 20 minutes to pull them, lift the shingle there in and the one above, fill holes properly and reinstall.
I would take the 20 mins.

__________________

DrHicks

Hey Cory -

Looks like you attacked a huge DIY job, and did it very well! It's a great feeling isn't it?

My advice to you would be to replace the few shingles where the nails are too low. As Slyfox said, it won't take very long. Mostly though, it's going to give you some added peace of mind.

Good job!

MJW

Critics make us better.
Sometimes just being nice doesn't help anyone out.

That's gutter flashing where I come from.

BigNiner19

John,

I have had a lot of people tell me to do this. That way the shingle doesnt look bad and most importantly the nail head is sealed and covered. Any idea where i can get this sealant you speak of? I was just going to use bull and sprinkle the granule over.

I would not hesitate to remove and repair the shingles that the few nails were shot low in, but that seems to be almost to late for that? I would be near impossible to keep everything in line by going that route.

If these ring shank nails and stuck good and are sealed up i would assume i would have no issues.

I also had someone tell me to cut small pieces of shingle and essentially bull them over any spots there is a nail showing. I dont know about that???

Thanks for the responses guys.

AltecRoofing

I recommend that you pull the nails and replace the shingle. If you do nothing, the inspector will fail your final inspection.