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Old 09-11-2011, 04:50 PM   #1
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Re-level my gutters


Hi there,

My home is 11 years old, I bought it last December, therefore this is my first check of the gutters.
I noticed that while raining, the water was dripping between the fascia and the gutter, so I took my ladder and I found two problems- see picture 1
  1. The gutter is warped in some points along its length, which is why the water drips off the roof.
  2. The water tends to stagnate due to the gutter being concave in the middle.
I want to solve both problems beginning from 1) but unfortunately (and this is incomprehensible to me) not only the builder didn't pay attention to level the gutter but they used nails and not screws to fix it Picture 2 and Picture 3

Can you suggest me a way to remove those nails?
I did some attempts but they do not move.

Once I have leveled the gutter, I want to put a drip edge flashing, however I see at least two issues:

1) How to fix the flashing under the shingles? I know they can be nailed but the shingles cannot be lifted more than, say, one inch, I feel they could break.

2) If I use a drip edge flashing, in correspondence of every bracket I need to cut the flashing, which makes the work more complicated and long.
Alternatively, I have been suggested something like this which should avoid me the bracket problem but... still I do not know how to fix the roof apron under the shingles.

I hope my questions are clear enough and that you can help me.

Thank you
Alex

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Old 09-11-2011, 05:52 PM   #2
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Re-level my gutters


Use a long level to get the correct slope for each run of gutter. Use a slope of about 1" for each 16' of gutter for proper drainage, good drainage is important. One easy way to accurately set the slope for proper drainage is to allow for a fall of 1-1/4" for each two 10' lengths of guttering material. You can calculate the slope by marking the nailing position on the fascia of the house before attaching the gutter. Then check the fall with a level for accuracy and locate the center of each gutter span and mark this center location on the fascia of the house and snap a chalk line from the center position as marked to the end of the run in each direction. Allow for 1" of fall each way. For most homes, this fall of 1" in each direction from the center provides adequate drainage. If the run is extremely long, allow 1" fall for each 16' of gutter.

Btw, spikes and ferrules hold the gutter to the wall of the house. The ferrule is inserted inside the gutter and the spike is driven through the rim of the gutter and through the ferrule to hold the gutter in place.

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Old 09-11-2011, 06:13 PM   #3
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Epson,

thanks for the level tips, I will follow your suggestions.

However, I have no idea how to pull off the nails which is, at the moment, the major issue.

Also, how to fix the flashing to the wood under the shingles?

Thank you
Alex
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:18 PM   #4
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hammer and flat bar,use the short curved part of the flat bar place the V notch as close to the bottom of the ferrule as possible hit the flat bar to drive the V notch onto the spike,push on the end of the bar to withdraw the spike alittle

pull the flat bar off and place the Vnotch under the head of the spike,strike the back of the flat bar as close to the spike as possible
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:28 PM   #5
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Toms suggestion be the way for sure.

But many times there seems to be that one spike if you run into that sucker it’s better to cut it with a Sawzall flush against the fascia than destroying the gutter trying to get it out.
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:42 PM   #6
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Toms suggestion be the way for sure.

But many times there seems to be that one spike if you run into that sucker itís better to cut it with a Sawzall flush against the fascia than destroying the gutter trying to get it out.
In fact, that's my fear, I might pull off the end of the bracket from the gutter, so that I can hammer the bracket without being directly connected to the gutter, otherwise cutting the ferrule/nail in the middle.

Shall I expect to find spiral nails?
If yes, could I perhaps try to unscrew them first?

Alex
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Old 09-11-2011, 08:16 PM   #7
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Do it the way Tom says. More than likely they will pop right out.

All I’m saying is having a Sawzall with a metal blade on standby is not a bad idea.

A helper is usually a must when you R&R gutters.
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Old 09-11-2011, 08:17 PM   #8
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Anybody regarding the drip edge flashing and how to fix it?
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Old 09-11-2011, 08:34 PM   #9
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This is what it should look like except I run the felt over the flashing and not under as they show in the pic.
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:04 PM   #10
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The picture is clear, I am not sure how much I can lift the shingles, I must have enough space to hammer the nails.

Do I need to put something on the nails to seal them?
If yes, what do you suggest?

Alex
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:01 AM   #11
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The picture is clear, I am not sure how much I can lift the shingles, I must have enough space to hammer the nails.

Do I need to put something on the nails to seal them?
If yes, what do you suggest?

Alex
It’s doable but sometimes can be a little tricky depending how old and brittle the roofing is.

That’s the true underlying scope of the job, “don’t damage the roofing”.

There should be no nails to seal, there under the roofing.

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