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-   -   rain gutters (http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/rain-gutters-42891/)

jayharold 04-20-2009 03:30 PM

rain gutters
 
I am installing rain gutters on my garage. I wanted to ask what kind most of you liked, metal or vinyl ? I'm sorry if this does not belong in this section.

Grampa Bud 04-20-2009 04:12 PM

You are OK. What kind of gutters do you like? Metal can be done in continuous lengths for corner to corner seamless runs. Plastic can not (yet). Do you have lots of trees and a stronger back than mind? Then gutter screens are in order to keep out most sticks, leaves, and bud casings. Stronger mind than back?, then plastic gutter covers work wonders since they keep out everything but bugs and water. They are hard to fasten to the gutters, do sometimes get blown off in a high wind and since they are plastic they are susceptable to UV rays and will crack after several years in extreme cold winters. It's really your call, what do you like????

Scuba_Dave 04-20-2009 09:43 PM

I've used both
Metal at my last house, PVC here
The reason I went PVC here is that is what was already up
So I just added on

Ed the Roofer 04-20-2009 10:07 PM

Seamless Aluminum, using .032 Guage Metal and hang-tite gutter hangers are a solid system that would do you well and are not very expensive.

I also recommend, if you do have a lot of tree falling debris, to use oversized 3" x 4" downspouts and make sure you have one on each section of guttering installed, unless the runs are very short and the flowage can make a smooth transition around an outside corner, if it is a hip style garage roof instead of a gable style.

The Plastic of Vinyl gutter wind up being hung too far away from the fascia board due to the thickness of the hanger brackets.

So, if you already have the shingles on the roof and intend on leaving them alone, the water flowing off of the shingles will flow behind the Plastic/Vinyl gutter troughs.

Also, with the Plastic/Vinyl gutters, it will be set too far away from the sheet metal Gutter Apron Drip Edge metal to do any good.

Ed

Scuba_Dave 04-20-2009 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed the Roofer (Post 263239)
The Plastic of Vinyl gutter wind up being hung too far away from the fascia board due to the thickness of the hanger brackets.

So, if you already have the shingles on the roof and intend on leaving them alone, the water flowing off of the shingles will flow behind the Plastic/Vinyl gutter troughs.

Also, with the Plastic/Vinyl gutters, it will be set too far away from the sheet metal Gutter Apron Drip Edge metal to do any good.

Ed

Now I find this out :(
And realize the problem is not my installation
Looks like the addition gets alum - Thanks

jayharold 04-21-2009 02:07 PM

Thanks everyone for your answers! I was leaning towards vinyl but after reading Ed the Roofers post I am going with metal.

Ed the Roofer 04-21-2009 06:27 PM

One other thing, which was already stated, but needs to be reinforced, is that the plastic/vinyl gutters lose their plasticizers over the years due to the harmfull UV rays of the sun.

They become very brittle and often times, just shatter when you lean a ladder on them at the proper angle.

The sectional splice joit pieces create multiple trough areas in the gutter, where small debris gets hung up on and creates a backlog of additional accumulated debris.

But, more so than the function, is the inherent lack of personal safety that occurs, due to needing to set up a ladder in a more vertical position than intended, so as to not disperse too much body weight against the outer lip of the gutter, which increases the likelyhood that someon could slide and slip from their ladder.

Ed

Scuba_Dave 04-21-2009 06:33 PM

I'm lucky in that respect
The new addition includes a door onto the current house roof
From there it's fairly easy to get onto the additions' roof
No more climbing ladders to get on the roof :thumbsup:

Chemist1961 04-22-2009 06:09 AM

Ed any tips on transporting 3 or 4 16' lengths of seamless on the top of a van so they don't become 8' bifold by the time I get home? I'm thinking my only hope is 16' brick mold as a reenforcement. Otherwise I'm going to pay a big delivery fee or on site forming fee..

Tom Struble 04-22-2009 07:52 AM

tie them to a 16' extension ladder,put them on the ladder upside down so the bottom dosent scratch,tie them securely every few ft make sure the first foot in the front gets tied securely and ask for a couple of plastic flags tape one on the front and back

Chemist1961 04-22-2009 07:56 AM

DUH,:laughing::laughing:
Hey thanks, forgot to mention I don't have one, but I can borrow something. Can't think too straight before the coffee kicks in somedays .........:no:

Ed the Roofer 04-22-2009 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chemist1961 (Post 263864)
DUH,:laughing::laughing:
Hey thanks, forgot to mention I don't have one, but I can borrow something. Can't think too straight before the coffee kicks in somedays .........:no:

Do you mean that you do not have any ladders to tie them too?

If that is the case, put 3 of 16 foot long 2" x 4"s inside of them and besides just tying them down, also use bungee cords to really snug them to the ladder racks.

Ed


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