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aribert 04-06-2012 10:51 PM

Proper transition between shed roof and shingled roof?
Greeting all:

New to the forum but have done a bit of contruction. As background - I dislike (low slope) shed roofs but I bought a house w/ an addition that has a shed roof anyway.

The shingled roof has a 6/12 pitch. THe shed roof has just under a 2/12 pitch. I'm in Michigan and snow melt / ice dam is a real possibility.

The shingled roof should have been replaced years ago. THe shed roof looks good (no weathering, no cracks) but there are a couple of wrinkles in the roof material. I have applied a asphalt based silver roof coating over the shed roof to minimize weathering. BTW, from what I can see at the edge, the shed roof appears to be a single layer (3' wide roll) - not like a typical multilayer BUR.

So the first question - should I consider adding an additional layer to the shed roof? If so, I am limited to cold apply. Working from the bottom up - now would be the right time to do so. But I need to walk on this surface to tear off the shingle roof (possibly 3 layers) and replace the shingles.

Assuming that I did not do anything w/ the shed roof and I need to repair or replace the shed roof in say 5 or 10 years - how would you go about doing so? Lift and remove several rows of shingles to get up under the the shingles with the BUR to get proper overlap? How much overlap should there be (remember ice dams are my concern - not that that has been an issue in the 4 years that I have owned this house).

Next question - I plan on using ice shield under the shingles at the transition to the shed roof. I want the best performance I can get - is ice shield pretty much a commodity or are some brands superior (and if so what brands are they)?

Back to the shed roof - there is a wrinkle in the roofing material. It looks to me like the material slipped downhill during the application. THis pic shows a level (that is level) and that the ridge is higher than the roof slope - water might pond behind the wrinkle for a short while - it can run to the ends of the wrinkle to escape. There are several other pics from different angles showing the ridge.

TIA for your insight.

joecaption 04-07-2012 12:31 AM

Looks more to me like someone layed the roofing over the first two rows of shingles.

That low a pitch should have had EPDM, or metal roofing.

sixeightten 04-07-2012 06:33 AM

I agree with the EPDM recommendation. As for the ice and water, Grace Ultra is about the best there is in my opinion.

aribert 04-07-2012 07:47 AM

Thanks for the replys. I did not consider that there might be a layer of shingles under the beginning of the shed roof. I know that they did not remove any shingles before they added the shed roof. WHen I went to cut some decking out to ventilate the shed attic into the main attic, I had to cut thru shingles also.

As far as a metal roof - I had never considered that. The only metal roofing that I have experince with is where the fasteners have a rubber sealing washer under the screw head and they are driven thru the metal (my father's machinery shed has such a roof w/ about the same pitch and I get to go up on the roof to seal leaking fasteners when I go down to visit them). Are there metal roofs that use some type of a "hidden" fastening system - so I can avoid that leak path? Also, how would I transition between the shingles to the metal?

With respect to an EPDM membrane roof - I have not looked into that. My preference is a roofing solution that I coud do myself. Would I be able to walk on it aafterwards in order to redo the shingle roof? Would I need to lay down plywood sheeting as a protective work surface to avoid damaging the EPDM during the tear-off?

dmc@RCR 04-07-2012 08:53 AM

The only metal roof you would want on that shed would be a soldered flat lock seam roof.

For DIY, your best bet would be a self adhered (peel and stick) modified bitumen.

Windows on Wash 04-07-2012 06:50 PM

You could also use a mechanically seamed standing metal roof as well.

dmc@RCR 04-07-2012 08:08 PM


You could also use a mechanically seamed standing metal roof as well.
Not quite a DIY installation. And much more difficult at the transition even if the pitch would allow for a standing seam.

Windows on Wash 04-08-2012 07:47 AM


Originally Posted by dmc@RCR (Post 894036)
Not quite a DIY installation. And much more difficult at the transition even if the pitch would allow for a standing seam.


I was just pointing out there are additional options in metal.

I hope to goodness the DIY'er is attempting soldered flat lock.

mgp roofing 04-12-2012 05:22 AM


Originally Posted by Windows on Wash (Post 893986)
You could also use a mechanically seamed standing metal roof as well.

There are a couple of systems here that use hidden clips that you clip over the edge of the sheet, nail to the purlin then press the next sheet onto the clips. Perfect for a roof like this if you don't want to go the membrane route. The only membranes I can recommend are not DIY install.
Here's one of the secret fix metal systems
You'll need to strip the old roof down to the deck & apply a breathable underlay before laying the metal. Flashings will need to be made to weatherproof the barges and where the metal meets the shingles.

tinner666 04-12-2012 03:17 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Be careful with that I&W Shield! If you use EPDM, they're not compatible, nor will it be necessary. Run the EPDM up the roof about3' above the tranition and add a sacrificial sheet, then start the shingles 2' up from the transition.

I just nail the top edge of the sacrificial sheet and use 4500 geocel near the lower edge so the wind can't get it. The geocel doesn't have to be continous.

Do the same thing if you decide to go with a SBS self-adhered roof.

BTW, the lightest, cheapest EPDM worth using on anything is .060 reinforced.

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