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-   -   Porch Roof Repair (http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/porch-roof-repair-175426/)

davemd1820 03-24-2013 06:41 PM

Porch Roof Repair
 
Hello folks-

I need some advice on how to repair or replace a front porch roof on a house built in 1893. This roof has a slight pitch, & hips, which direct the water to valleys which terminate at two drains in the front corners. These drains connect to two downspouts. There are no gutters.

This seems a poor design to me. Should I repair it or rebuild it to a conventional design using shingles & gutters?

Here are some photos: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...09062110303681

Thanks for any feedback.

-Dave

shazapple 03-24-2013 07:22 PM

Odd yes, but if it works then why change it. That roof is too low slope for shingles, so you might as well stay with flat roof material. That current roof needs to be redone though.

Gymschu 03-24-2013 08:33 PM

Rebuild would be my vote. This is a good time to dig into that mess and correct any problems. Looks like they used any scrap pieces of rolled asphalt roofing to patch in any bad spots. Who knows how many layers of that stuff is on that roof. Have you considered metal roofing? Just a thought.

jagans 03-24-2013 08:43 PM

Rebuild in kind, and install a two ply SBS Modified Bitumen, over a nailed glass base sheet. You are going to have to correct the siding above though and get a metal flashing up under the secondary protection under the siding above. The J channel around the window sills is poorly conceived and installed. You may have to reside the front, and install new felt under.

tinner666 03-25-2013 09:19 AM

That was originally a tin roof with built-in gutter. Around here, we replace the tin and other junk with copper for a roof that can go 60 or more years and retain the historical aspect. Only other options may be TPO, PVC, or EPDM since the mod-bits and SBS self adhered don't play well in built-in gutters.

tinner666 03-25-2013 09:22 AM

Oh, with the windows and siding above it, you'll need to insure they are completely and properly flashing so water doesn't get behind and under the new roof. http://www.albertsroofing.com/Window%20Flashing.htm Anything less will come back to bite you.

1985gt 03-25-2013 11:57 AM

I agree with tinner on this one.

Built in gutters can be done with asphalt products but the odds of having the right person do it are slim.

Go with a EPDM ect, tear off all of the existing layers, and replace any wood that is needed.

To me It looks like they covered up half the the existing gutter. These can look really nice if done correctly, or come back and bite you in the ass if done wrong.

jagans 03-25-2013 01:21 PM

Absolutely, If you are thinking Hysterical, install 20 oz built in, soldered copper yankee gutters, and a standing seam copper roof. I dont know how that will go with the plastic siding, and you better have a thick wallet, but Hey do what you want. You still have to address the siding above the roof regardless, as that is probably what destroyed the current roof. Yankee gutters look nice but they are a royal PIA unless they are done right, which is seldom seen, nowadays.

Windows on Wash 03-26-2013 07:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jagans (Post 1145474)
Absolutely, If you are thinking Hysterical, install 20 oz built in, soldered copper yankee gutters, and a standing seam copper roof. I dont know how that will go with the plastic siding, and you better have a thick wallet, but Hey do what you want. You still have to address the siding above the roof regardless, as that is probably what destroyed the current roof. Yankee gutters look nice but they are a royal PIA unless they are done right, which is seldom seen, nowadays.

+1

Plan on spending about 3X what you would for EPDM.

Tinner is correct. Check the windows and siding very well and count of re-flashing them.

jagans 03-26-2013 09:08 AM

Hey, I said that first, not Tinner. He added it after he saw my post. :laughing::laughing::laughing:

Windows on Wash 03-26-2013 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jagans (Post 1146102)
Hey, I said that first, not Tinner. He added it after he saw my post. :laughing::laughing::laughing:

:laughing:

You first then!!!

Between you and tinner, you have more roofing know-how and expertise than West of the Rockies I would be willing to bet.

jagans 03-26-2013 01:08 PM

They dont have roofs west of the Rockies, they use Yak Poop and Straw out there. :laughing::laughing::laughing: Just kidding guys.

But thanks WOW, I appreciate it, as does The Tin Man, Im sure.

tinner666 03-26-2013 06:22 PM

Yeah sure. We'll see how smart I am if I can actually give out enough info for a 4-5 hour class I've been asked to run. My BP is way up there just thinking about it.

jagans 03-27-2013 02:41 PM

Tinner, Organization it everything. Buy some 3 x 5 cards and make some notes, starting with the basics. Start by breaking out architectural from structural, and give the various types, Flat seam, Standing seam, Batten Seam, Then Structural Trapezoidal Standing seam, and the Hybrids. Remember, you know more than anyone in that class you are giving, Go get em mate!

jagans 03-27-2013 02:50 PM

Tinner, I forgot to mention, people that attend these things absolutely love hands on. I did one on metal roofing and had a good friend of mine who is an artisan with architectural metal showing people how to solder while I did the narrative. I made a couple of mock ups and we installed some panels on sheathing. Actually doing it trumps sitting on your axe regurgitating text any day of the week. The seminar we gave received rave reviews. Just do what you know, and you will do just fine.

A couple shots of Wild Turkey helps too. :thumbup:


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