polycarbonate corrugated roofing question
I currently have a deck with a lean-to type of roof with plywood sheeting and shingles. I plan to tear off the plywood (leaving the rafters which are approx. 16 inches apart) and replace the roofing with polycarbonate corrugated roofing panels from one of the two major big box stores in my area. The panel mfrs install instruct one to attach horizontal 2x3 beams i.e. purlins, to the rafters, then attach their foam closure strips on those purlins, then use their fasteners (hex screw with foam washer) to attach the polycarbonate panels on the crest of the panelís curve.
My question is: Does anyone know of a way to avoid using the foam closure strips? For my 9x12 roof, the foam strips will cost about 120.00, nearly as much as the panels for the roof. I understand that the foam strip helps ensure that the crest of the panel doesnít get forced too far downward when using the fasteners, but I wonder if there is a cheaper way to achieve the same result.
I found a review comment on a big box website that suggested one could rip 2x4ís to the appropriate thickness and put those on top of the purlins, but I plan to use the panels with a curvy wave, as opposed to a panel with a square-type pattern, so I donít think that would prevent me from bowing the curve on the panel when I screw into it. Any thoughts or suggestions on this would be greatly appreciated!
These things are just strips of foam, I assume to ensure you don't break the panel by tightening too much? Do they follow the profile of the panel?
Why not just use shingles or a metal roof? I don't think you'll get the longevity out of these panels you are looking for.
Here are the two closure strips that you need, will cost about $20 one goes on top of the purlin and the other on top of the blocking on the 2 outsiide rafters. I attached the installation instructions.
Josall, thanks for the links. Those wood strips are not on the shelf at my big box so I'll need to order them, but never would've known they existed if you didn't point them out. MUCH more economical than the foam. Thank you!
I am a little concerned that they may not work with the tuftex panels I want to use, since the strips are for palruf, but I can order them and check them out. Here's the panels I'm planning to use:
If the strips don't fit my panel, perhaps I can compromise and find a Palruf panel that will be acceptable to me.
Shazapple, I hear what you're saying--I personally like the metal roofing panels better too (strength, ease of install and I think the rain would sound pretty fantastic on them.) However, I plan to sell next year so I'm going with opaque polycarb for aesthetic reasons.
And I believe that the foam strips are to ensure both that you don't break the panel by screwing too far and that you don't compress the crest of the wave on the panel when you drive the screws.
The strips should work on either panel they are both a 2-1/2" corragated pattern.
support for ridges of corrugated roofing
just came upon this site; I use 1/2" dowels cut about 2" long, drill a 3/8" hole for the screw & place them under the ridges for support; cheap but time consuming. Time I got.
Re: polycarbonate corrugated roofing question
Hi, I'm a few years late to this thread but if I just found it I assume others may as well. I work for Palram, the company that manufactures Palruf and Suntuf, and I wanted to clear up a few points:
1. Palruf which is sold at Home Depot among other places and the Tuftex Seacoaster panel, currently sold at Lowes, are both round profiles but the closure strips are not interchangeable as the Palruf is a 3 inch corrugation and the Seacoaster is a 2 1/2 inch corrugation.
2. The wood closure strips listed earlier in the thread are only stocked in the pacific northwest. In the rest of the country they are special order (or ordered online from some retailers). There is a plastic closure strip option available in the rest of the country as well that is generally much more durable than foam and easily worked. (To my knowledge Lowes only offers the foam option for the panels they sell)
3. The seacoaster panel and the Palruf panel are both entry level panels made from PVC. They hold up pretty but generally speaking need to be well ventilated (think patio covers where at least 3 sides are open to allow air flow and prevent heat build up).
If it's an option for you the polycarbonate panels at Lowes (Tuftex) or at Home Depot and other lumber yards (Suntuf) are top end options that carry better warranties and perform better under a variety of conditions. We offer a nice overview of the difference between PVC and Polycarbonate on our website.
Hope this is helpful to the next person who comes along
Re: polycarbonate corrugated roofing question
Well I have a similar question too...
Here is what we have:
==>We have a cider pergola which is surrounded by 3 sides. The top part(roof) is 18'X18' and it has 14 slats(vertical) of 2"X6" and Horizantal slates are 2"X2" which is 1.25" apart on top of the vertical slates. This is the equivalent of 70% coverage.
Here is we are planning:
==>Building==> We want to make a waterproof cover on top of the pergola using polycarbonate panels. We are leaning towards suntuf panels which they sale is home depot. Ordering==> suntuf 12' panels, side ridge, wall flash ridge.
Here is my question :
==> Do we have to put closure strips before putting panels? (since we have lots of 2"X2" 's) The guy who build pergola is the same guy putting panels for us and his opinion is that we can get away without the closure strips because we have 2"x2".
==> Although we are planning to order side ridge and wall flash ridge, we will still have a challenge with 45 degree part near door and window. Palram doesn't have anything that can go on 45 degree area. We might just bend panels to make it waterproof in that area!!
==> I am adding two pictures here to give you an idea.
One picture is showing my entire pergola.
Second picture is showing horizontal slates (2"x2") view from top. (It's partial view since it was taken from my balcony)
Thanks in advance. :)
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