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-   -   Please help me decide what to put on this roof. (http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/please-help-me-decide-what-put-roof-31493/)

p9142 11-09-2008 12:01 PM

Please help me decide what to put on this roof.
 
I am trying to figure out what to put on this roof. It is somewhere in between 1/12 and 2/12. Probably around 1.5/12. I am not sure what the grey roofing material is, but it is leaking and I need it replaced. We had a contractor patch it last year, but the patch has already failed. I want to redo the entire grey part of the roof, and possibly the red shingles if that is necessary. You can see the patch in the attached pictures.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_baWx36LwTzc/SR...2/PB080754.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_baWx36LwTzc/SR...2/PB080755.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_baWx36LwTzc/SR...2/PB080756.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_baWx36LwTzc/SR...2/PB080735.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_baWx36LwTzc/SR...2/PB080740.JPG

OldNBroken 11-09-2008 01:55 PM

If you are looking to do it yourself, I recommend Certainteed Flintlastic SA 3-ply system on the low slope and a 30yr laminate on the red portion. Follow the instructions, do it on a warm day and roll the material thoroughly with an 80 or 100# linoleum roller. Use a good edge metal around the entire perimeter and sandwich it between the midply and the cap sheet.

Run the SA 2 feet up the steep slope area then begin the shingles 2-3" above the transition of the two roofs. You do not those shingles coming down on the lower deck like that.

Tear off all the existing to begin, replace any damaged decking and prep it well. Or resheet the whole thing. You want a good smooth surface to attach to.

the roofing god 11-10-2008 02:41 AM

what he said

p9142 11-10-2008 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldNBroken (Post 182362)
Tear off all the existing to begin, replace any damaged decking and prep it well. Or resheet the whole thing. You want a good smooth surface to attach to.

Thanks for your help. As far as removal of the old materials goes. Do you have any idea what I am going to be looking at? Will there be some kind of underlayment underneath the gray stuff, or will it be stuck right to the plywood? If it is stuck to the plywood would I need to replace all the wood in order to use the new system?

OldNBroken 11-10-2008 05:49 PM

Done properly it should be installed over a nailed base sheet so you'll just have rows of simplex nails to pop up and some staggered down the middle of the runs. That is "done properly". Best to tear off on a cold day for best results.

Go to your local hardware store and see if they sell spud shovels (roofing spades). Long-handled spades with a narrow, notched blade and a fulcrum plate welded on the back. Should run about $25-30 each. Pick up a few and should make it a pretty gravy tearoff for ya.

p9142 11-10-2008 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldNBroken (Post 182939)
Done properly it should be installed over a nailed base sheet so you'll just have rows of simplex nails to pop up and some staggered down the middle of the runs. That is "done properly". Best to tear off on a cold day for best results.

Go to your local hardware store and see if they sell spud shovels (roofing spades). Long-handled spades with a narrow, notched blade and a fulcrum plate welded on the back. Should run about $25-30 each. Pick up a few and should make it a pretty gravy tearoff for ya.


Thanks for all the help.:thumbsup:

4just1don 11-10-2008 11:43 PM

I am NOT a pro like these guys,,,BUT ,,,my experiences are not good with steep roofs running on low slope roofs. or ANY low slope roof. Best results would be to repitch the low roof up to the highest part of red roof and make a "T" ridge out of it. Otherwwise your looking at headaches every couple years(at least with OUR weather)

the roofing god 11-11-2008 04:53 AM

there`s no problem with that" if done properly"

Ed the Roofer 11-11-2008 04:11 PM

Ther is more than enough slope to the "Flat" Roof section that would enable a proper flat roofing material to work well for the long term future.

But, your most critical area will be the tie in to the sloped coral red 3-tab shingle roof, so you need to remove at least 3 feet of the bottom of the shingle roof as well. Since that is a pain in the butt, expecially for someone inexperienced in removing lower courses of shingles, I would recommend that you remove and replace that entire side of shingle roof at the same time.

Ed

p9142 11-11-2008 04:25 PM

Yes, I am not planning on increasing the slope of the roof. A contractor I talked with suggested that I use rubber roofing. Can anyone comment on a rubber roof system compared to the Certainteed Flintlastic SA 3-ply system.

OldNBroken 11-11-2008 07:01 PM

Rubber could be cheaper but it won't be very aesthetically pleasing nor will it be as durable as this 3-ply. You get what you pay for.

Ed the Roofer 11-11-2008 09:55 PM

With EPDM Rubber roof material, they can get it in a section large enought to cover the entire roof without having any seams.

Make sure they were not mis-informed and referring to Modified Bitumen, which is a 40" wide roll roofing torched down material, if the use the APP variety instead of the SBS version.

That too could be a good roof, but not typically for the DIY'er.

Ed

the roofing god 11-12-2008 05:16 AM

epdm wouldn`t be advised by me under all those trees,very easy for the system to puncture,as oldn broken says the flintlastic system is more durable in this situation,and epdm is one of the last things ,I`d recommend for a DIY`er

p9142 11-12-2008 06:55 AM

Yes, it was EPDM that he was recommending. Thanks for the advice everyone. He was not a licensed roofer, so I appreciate the input from all the professionals on here.

p9142 11-12-2008 08:24 PM

what?


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