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freddie 06-04-2006 11:16 AM

Patio Roof Renovation
 
1 Attachment(s)
My existing patio roof has been leaking for a few years now. Last week I finally decided to get to fixing the roof. The roof has a slope of 3/8:1 so very low slope. The roof was originally fashioned with tar paper, on top of that was 3 tab shingles and on top of that was roll roofing. Needless to say this mess was a disaster in the making. The roof was leaking in several places where the roof meets the eave due to standing water. I removed several of the sheathing boards due to rot and replace the end fascia board for the same reason. The roof had no overhang and the drip cap was installed on top of the roll roofing serving no purpose other than to ensure more rot. I now have a sheathed patio with a low slope deck upon it. I have been unsure of what roofing material to install back upon the deck.

Yesterday I noticed a patio roofing episode on diynet called Poolside Patio Oasis and being in southern central California, I have climate that isn't all that different from Arizona. It rains in March and that is about it. They used a two layer process that was peel and stick. First a membrane was put down that stuck to the deck. On top of that a granule covered roll was put down that stuck to the membrane.

Quote:

The waterproof barrier used on the Hussers' roof was two-layered, with each layer requiring the same installation method.
  1. Roll out the first row on the end of the roof furthest from the house and cut the ends to leave about an inch of overhang on all sides (figure F).
  2. Fold the piece in half to remove the plastic backing and expose adhesive.
  3. Stick this side down and repeat the folding to the other side and once again remove backing.
  4. Roll the next row out over the first, working your way up the pitch toward the house.
  5. When all rows are adhered trim the excess overhand closer to the edge of the plywood.
  6. Add a drip edge to the perimeter, then add the second layer of roofing material over the first layer using the same process.
  7. Be sure to let the second layer extend over the drip edge by at least a quarter inch.
  8. Finally, use a water filled roller to press all of the waterproof material together and into the plywood roofing.

I didn't see any torches or nails being used on this system. I am interested in using this system on my roof but have been unable to determine exactly what it is called and any brand names that it may be sold under. Can any one point me in the proper direction?

Attachment 180

freddie 06-04-2006 06:01 PM

Nvermind, I've found that this is Polyflex SA P and Elastoflex SA V from Polyglass.

christian1 10-31-2006 09:16 PM

Hi Freddie,
How are you? I was interested in the same product. I also live in SoCal.
Where do you purchase that product?
Thanks Freddie!
Ron

AaronB 11-01-2006 06:19 AM

I do not trust Self-adhered modified bitumen systems, as the seams ar e left open by way of the system design. I believe you need a 2/12 slope, no gutter, and no penetrations if even to consider using it.

troubleseeker 11-01-2006 09:01 PM

The only membranes I trust are the large one piece sheets, but they are very expensive for the typical residential job. I have seen way to many problems with torch down caused by too much/little heat. A properly applied felt/tar build up is a good roof, but it is only as good as the installer, and the number of plies. If you only want to pay for two plies , installed by some drunk melting tar in an old crab boiling pot , don't expect much.


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