Over-trimmed shingles are driving me crazy

pipeguy

Two nights ago I was laying in bed trying to get to sleep over the incessant TAP, TAP, TAP, TAP, TAP sound that rain makes because the roofer cut the shingles too close to the rake. When conditions are just right (light rain, little or no wind) rain will DRIP, DRIP, DRIP, DRIP, DRIP over the edge of the shingle and strike the top of the aluminum clad window casing. It's literally inches from my head and it drives me insane.
Having only inspected the shingles from the ground, looking up 3 stories, with both the naked eye as well as binoculars, it appears that there is approximately 1/4" overhang at the rake. Directly under the shingle is a piece of 1/2" x 1" (?) flat trim that runs along the rake. The trim is mounted over a 1 x 4 facia board. Both the trim and and facia are clad in aluminum. White vinyl siding covers the house from the facia down to the second floor. The top of the window in question, upon which water noisily drips, is anywhere from about 16" below the rake on one side to about 30" below on the other side. The casing for the window protrudes about 2" beyond the surface of the surrounding siding. What can I do (other than call Grumpy) to fix this myself?

Come to think of it, this brings up something else... My shingles have developed sporadic black streaks (like dirt ). Should I be concerned or is it just mold or something. I really don't care what it looks like, just don't want it leaking.

The roof is probably close to 15 years old. About two years ago nearly everyone in the neighborhood got a new roof and new siding after a major hail storm came through. Roofers started showing up on every doorstep with insurance claims forms. The first guy that came to my house swore, without inspecting it, that my aluminum siding was so messed up that it would require full replacement. After letting him look unsuccesfully for damage, for over five minutes, I pointed out that the siding was vinyl. He got in his truck and left without another word. Three more "roofers" looked at my roof and said it would not merit an insurance claim.

Jerry T

Can't give you any help on your first question, but the streaks you refer to are probably a fungus and it will most likely appear on the north side. There are fungus resistant roofs available that have Zinc that will deter the growth of fungus.

If you notice on some homes that the roofing around and directly below a chimney will not be affected because the flashing contains Zinc that effectivly washes down and the rest of the roofing will be streaked all over.

Just my opinion because I am not a roofer and have no yearn to be either.

pipeguy

Thanks JT, the streaks are only on the north side ('due' north in fact)

Hammertime

Pipeguy, you don't have any gutters on your house?

pipeguy

not at the sides of the roof (is that the rake or the eave? maybe neither...I can never remember.) The water is spilling over the side and hitting the top of the window below. Otherwise I have seamless "leafguard" gutters all the way around the house - they work well.
Sorry if I improperly used the term "facia" to describe the board that runs up the side of the house, under the edge of the shingles, to the peak of the roof line and back down the other side?

Hammertime

Well, I guess there's things you can do to eliminate that noise from the roof side. But, It might be easier to install something on the window top where the "tap" noise is coming from to try and drown the noise out. Like some kind of rubberized drip cap. Instead of installing something or more shingle under the existing to bring the shingle edge out further. Also, you wouldn't have to be as high up to work. Just above the window.

johnboy52

Install some metal flashing along the Gable edge, where the water is running off the shingles and falling on the window. You want to get Gravel stop type of flashing. You will have to pull the nails along the side where your going to install the metal. If your house is 3 stories you better wear a parachute...

Teetorbilt

Pipe, put some gutter up, vinyl, along the rake. Bed it in, apply a bead of caulk prior to install, be certain that it is seated and then run a second bead after it is in place.
Anything that you attach to the wall over the window will only echo into the house. I can address that too but I don't think that you want to go there.

Grumpy

The overhang should be at least 3/8" If it's as big a problem as youa re saying you should have a drip edge (ODE) installed. Now this won't extend the shingles but will prevent water infiltration.

The black streaks are probably an algae(BTW algae is not a fungus), but it's odd they would show up so soon. Zinc won't help to remove existing algae. Have your roof pressure washed with 500 psi (thes five hundred) and some chemical bio cide, then have the zinc strips installed.

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Sometimes the savings that comes from doing it yourself can be blown away with one mistake.

The information found in this post is not to be considered legal advice. All information should be considered relative, not specific. Never attempt any repairs you are not comfortable with. Always maintain safety! The author of this post takes no responsibility for any losses that occur. Use at your own risk.

pipeguy

Thanks' Grumpy. I'm writing this down on my "things to pester roofer about" list when I get quotes for the spring replacement.

unclej

Grumpy, the roofing god, apple roof cleaning, Barry M, johnk, and All,
noticed your suggestion of zinc strips AFTER black algae removed, Grumpy--have you/anyone in northern climate had positive experience with strips preventing algae re-growth AFTER algae removed?
...other posts say that zinc strips don't work/only work for 2-4 feet of roof, but these posts don't make clear whether or not the black algae was removed first.
My situation: northern climate--in E.Massachusetts, just south of NH border--black algae on N-facing 43-degree pitch on a Cape-style house...black algae streaks formed on roof cross-section directly above the "slanted" interior 2nd-floor walls, just started past 2 years after very thorough insulation done (by contractor)...i'm guessing because space between slanted interior walls and joists above the slanted walls was dense-packed with cellulose (above fiberglass batting, kraft-facing next to ceiling), without propavent, so North-side ventilation from knee-wall area (Hicks vents) blocked from flowing over the slanted walls up to the ridge vent (propavent was installed on the S side).
The insulation job increased comfort and decreased heating costs
significantly, so some algae (and a couple of pencil-erase-size green mosses just getting started) not a huge price to pay I guess, but doesn't look too hot and am concerned about possible long-term damage to roof (2 layers asphalt, 40-yr architectural 10 yrs ago over 20-yr flat, in very good condition)...so plan to wash off the algae and moss, just wondering whether or not to install zinc strips after (and if you've had good luck with zinc AFTER cleaning, would like to know which brand--Shingle Shield 3-ft pieces, Z-Stop continuous, or other?)
Many thanks, any experience-based comments appreciated!

OldNBroken

Actually, z-stop will kill the existing algae growth. The bad side of installing them now is possible damage to your older roof. Plus their maximum effective range is only 6-8 feet, but this would also depend on the pitch of the roof, the steeper the roof, the more effective range. Personally I think the cost, PITA installation and the "look" outweigh the benefit. It's one of those things that does work, but is it worth it.

As far as the annoying "ping". Proper way to fix it is to redo the rake with a d-style metal and extend the shingles out to it properly. Not really worth it at this point in the roofs life. As long as it's just an annoyance and not damaging anything, go to the source of the noise instead, the window. Easiest fix, Just get a couple tubes of NP-1 and caulk the top of the window, tapering it away from the house of course. This isn't keeping the drops from hitting it, but it's will remove the annoying pinging noise.

TazinCR

I reread and if the roof is 15 years old why is this now a problem.

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