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Old 11-15-2010, 08:11 AM   #1
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Open rafter tails


Hi,

My wife and I live in Louisiana and will be building our version of a Craftsman house early next year (Feb-Mar). We're trying to stick with as much of the Craftsman look as possible.

I'm currently trying to figure out what it will take to have open rafter tails on our roof line. One question that comes to mind is, how do I sister treated lumber rafters ends to the ends of pine or spruce lumber used to build the roof? I want to use treated lumber on what will be exposed, so that I can paint it later. I also want them to be strong enough to hold up the roofer if he get close to the edge. And, how does the drip edge for the roof shingles work if there is no facia board? Or,can I still have one (facia board) without hiding most of the rafter tail?

I have a few ideas, but wanted to see what you guys have to say...Thanks for reading my post.

Danny C.

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Old 11-15-2010, 08:47 AM   #2
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I would rethink the sistering of pressure treated tails.

With proper overhang, sealants and good quality paints, you should not have any problems with the tails being exposed to the outside.

It was done long before PT came out and if you look around your area, you'll see LOTS of old houses with gorgeous overhangs without rot.

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Old 11-15-2010, 09:01 AM   #3
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Thanks for the note... I was concerned about the humidity of Southeast Lousiana doing damaged to the untreated wood. I'll keep in mind your suggestion. Thanks for your insite to my question
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:12 AM   #4
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If you decide to connect the rafter tails. A 2 foot overhang would require a 6 ft long pressure treated piece atached to existing rafters. Just double the overhang lenght that you plan to use . (A standard candlelever formula) . I agree with the above responder too . You may consider a quality sealer and stain to acheive the look you desire . Sounds like a lot of work to attach pressue treated tails , although it is certainly possible . With the roof overhang , the rafter tails will not be in direct contact with the weather so a quality paint or stain should give you adequate protection and color choices.

Last edited by carpenter man; 11-15-2010 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:53 AM   #5
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Thanks, okay, if I leave the rafters alone and seal the exposed wood you guys think I'll be okay as far as protection from the weather, I'll buy that. What about the drip edge? Do I run a small facia board just wide enough to attach the drip edge to that? Do I even need a drip edge?
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Old 11-15-2010, 01:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny C View Post
Thanks, okay, if I leave the rafters alone and seal the exposed wood you guys think I'll be okay as far as protection from the weather, I'll buy that. What about the drip edge? Do I run a small facia board just wide enough to attach the drip edge to that? Do I even need a drip edge?
Around here, an open cornice is created by cutting down the rafter/rafter extension enough to accommodate the thickness of beaded tongue and groove material so that the top of that material is flush with the rest of the rafter. Regular sheathing is then run over the top of the beaded T&G. This gives enough sheathing thickness so the roofing nails don't blow through the exposed beaded board and also ties the rafter tail extensions back into the trusses/rafters.

The drip edge gets nailed to the sheathing and should be tall enough to cover the end thickness of it. There is typically no fascia on open cornice. Here, it sometimes gets added to support gutter, but there are lots of other ways to incorporate gutter if it's needed.

edit: PT would should not be necessary or even desirable for rafter tails. Hawaii is the only place I know where PT is used in this fashion and that's because of termites.
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Old 11-15-2010, 02:53 PM   #7
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Thanks for responding....I appreciate the detail.....
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Old 11-15-2010, 05:35 PM   #8
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I agree with Seeyou with exception; use 1x t&g bead on the soffit or 1x4 after champhering the edge 1/8 bevel on both sides of each over-hang board and add a wood shim under the ply/OSB bottom sheet so they transition level on each rafter top. Cheaper, if the labor' free. You may enjoy this:pp.#145, "B": http://books.google.com/books?id=E5S...20beam&f=false

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Old 11-15-2010, 06:39 PM   #9
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Thanks for the response and the link...
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Old 11-15-2010, 07:59 PM   #10
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Log home owners use a product called boracare to treat wood that will be exposed such as you describe. It is a borate with a glycol in it so that it penetrates thru the wood. It is sold by nisus corp. Nisus corp.com I have used it for years on my log home. It doesn't change the color of the wood as it is clear. It has to go on bare wood, so if you decide to use it, you have to treat the wood before you paint it, also you have to wait till it penetrates well before painting or staining. I usually give it a week in dry weather to penetrate well. then stain or in your case paint. you can research it out online at their website, or call them.

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