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-   -   Is this normal/correct? Shingles overhanging drip ege by 1/2" or so (http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/normal-correct-shingles-overhanging-drip-ege-1-2-so-33013/)

diymonkey 12-02-2008 10:34 AM

Is this normal/correct? Shingles overhanging drip ege by 1/2" or so
 
I just had my roof done and it looks like they did a great job. Im a bit confused though about how the shingle is suppose to overhang or line up with the drip edge. Ive seen some roofs where the shingles are trimmed to line up with the drip edge, while other roofs have the shingles extend about 1/2" or so past the drip edge. It seems like the 1/2" overhang would be the way to go. Is both "correct"? My old roof had the shingles flush with the drip edge which I think caused the drip edge to rust prematurely.

Here is an image I snagged off of google to illustrate what I am talking about. My roof edge looks very similar.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../roof-edge.jpg

AtlanticWBConst. 12-02-2008 10:42 AM

Simple Answer: Yes.

skymaster 12-02-2008 11:18 AM

Most assuredly, positively,fer shure,uh yup, yep, dat right. Or as Atlantic said
Yes:laughing:

Ed the Roofer 12-04-2008 09:41 PM

It should overhang by at least a minimum of 1/2", with up to 1 1/2" being commonly acceptable by industry standards.

Being flush may not pose any problems, but I prefer to eliminate the possibility of reverse capilarry action, where the water flows under the shingles due to cohesion.

Ed

bluefitness 12-04-2008 10:08 PM

No, it doesn't always have to overhang. In high wind areas, they will cut it flush with the drip edge. The felt is run under the drip edge and a layer of cement is applied. I would say 95 percent of the houses in my area are cut flush with the drip edge.

Ed the Roofer 12-04-2008 11:16 PM

Correction:

As just stated, some codes may require a flush cut, as in Florida, due to wind uplift and they also do require the roofing cement to be applied at the perimeters and elsewhere.

Ed

AtlanticWBConst. 12-05-2008 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed the Roofer (Post 194117)
Correction:

As just stated, some codes may require a flush cut, as in Florida, due to wind uplift and they also do require the roofing cement to be applied at the perimeters and elsewhere.

Ed

At first, I thought that pic was the poster's actual house (palm branch in the background - high wind zone?), but now I see that it is an image that they found on the internet...

duane1982 12-05-2008 08:51 AM

I've done many both ways. I tend now to start them flush for the simple fact I've drivenback by houses I've did (and been called back) and noticed there are dents in the bottom row where the HO went up to trim a tree branch off the roof, or went up to look at something, install antennae etc. About half the houses around don't have gutters because of our freeze/thaw cycles in NY near lake Ontario.

AaronB 12-07-2008 01:23 PM

I agree with ed, and with the fact that in high wind zones, the cement not only acts as an edge anchor, but as a sealnt to prevent the capillary action. I like them to hang over.

We have ice barriers nowadays that makes it feasible to let everyone have gutters. :)

duane1982 12-07-2008 01:50 PM

Aaron,

Not having gutters isn't due to water backing up and making a roof leak. Not many have them because ice buildup will actually take the gutter down(fascia with it a lot). Even on new builds with little heat loss this happens around here.

AaronB 12-08-2008 06:31 AM

Really? We have not had this problem where I live. It may well be localized thing. What about insulation? Might that help to alleviate ice buildup?

duane1982 12-08-2008 08:29 AM

Aaron,

Insulation would no doubt help greatly. Most houses where we live are built from 1880-1910 so they aren't insulated well. For most people the simple solution is no gutters.


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