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Old 09-07-2011, 06:35 PM   #1
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No starter course?


I recently found a leak in my 1.5 year old roof, at the eave. Water was coming in somehow, and dripping out of both a soffit vent, and around exterior window trim. Upon inspection, I see that the water is find it's way between the butt joint of the first course of shingles. I lifted them up as far as I could, and found that there was no starter course of shingles underneath. It's happening at each butt joint of the first course all around the house, but I only noticed the leaking in one place. The water is hitting the "ice damn barrier" stuff (really sticky roll of stuff only used at eaves), then flowing down under the metal drip edge and behind the PVC (good call by me when that got replaced) fascia board. Is there any possible (easy) cure for this? Can a starter course be installed "after the fact"? Would a really deep drip edge (4"+) work as well? Thanks for any help you might be able to provide!!

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Old 09-07-2011, 07:09 PM   #2
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No starter course?


Short of pulling the nails from 3 courses of shingles , adding a starter course and reinstalling them all, you could use 7"-8" long pieces of aluminun, about 8" wide.

Of course, the roof is still under warranty, so I'd go for the roofer first!

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Old 09-07-2011, 07:18 PM   #3
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No starter course?


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Short of pulling the nails from 3 courses of shingles , adding a starter course and reinstalling them all, you could use 7"-8" long pieces of aluminun, about 8" wide.

Of course, the roof is still under warranty, so I'd go for the roofer first!
Why that width of aluminum? Is that a standard size piece of aluminum or something?
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:39 PM   #4
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No starter course?


Because the water is going to wick 4" or more to each side.
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:42 PM   #5
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No starter course?


It's a simple ranch style house, roughly 60' of eave on both the front and the back. 3' width of the shingles, means that there are roughly 20 seams on the front of the house, and 20 on the back. You're suggesting I get 40 pieces of aluminum so that I can "patch" each? I guess that wouldn't be so bad, but I was thinking that a continuous strip, like a new 6"deep drip edge (or something similar) would be better, though possibly harder to install.
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:54 PM   #6
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No starter course?


I also assume that somehow installing a starter strip now would not be a fun process, right?
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:18 PM   #7
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No starter course?


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I also assume that somehow installing a starter strip now would not be a fun process, right?
Not at all! But, it's doable.
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:38 PM   #8
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No starter course?


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Not at all! But, it's doable.
As I think this would look better, how would it be done? Thanks again for all the help!!
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:03 PM   #9
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No starter course?


Like I said earlier, you need to remove all the nails form the first 3 rows. Buy a Malco 'I' Beam Roofer Bar. And maybe a round pointed trowel to cut through the sealant.
At fourth row, slide it under to break the seal as far across as you can. Do this for all 3 courses. It takes finesse! Don't rip any shingles. If you do, go up another row and plan another repair! After they're all loose and the bottom row out, Take 3-tab shingles and cut the tabs off at the top of the keyways. Lay them in place even with the bottom edge of the roof, granule side up, and the sealer strip at the bottom so the first course will have a good wind seal. Put the nails in the starter course as close to the bottom as possible! AND DON"T FORGET TO STAGGER THE STARTER COURSE AT LEAST 6" FROM ANY JOINTS!!!!!!
Use geocel-2300 to seal dab-any nail-holes left in the reused shingles and a 1" dab here and there for wind seal.

A tip. When the shingles just won't unseal, I use a torch to heat the trowel and slide it between the shingles to break the seak. USE FINESSE! Pay attention to what you're slicing with it.
It is easier than it sounds to do. Just be patient.
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:05 PM   #10
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No starter course?


Since I hate typing, feel free to call during the day for clarifications if needed. I'll try to walk you through if possible. Post pix if you can.
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:07 PM   #11
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No starter course?


PS, Ed and Roofmaster are more fluent than I am when it comes to explanations!
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:33 AM   #12
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No starter course?


Thank you so much for all the help. My contractor is coming over tomorrow to take a look at it and see what can be done. I guess it was a good thing that I noticed the leak in one spot, as it's happening at ever butt joint on the first row of shingles. Water damage could have continued for years all over the roof had this gone unnoticed. I'll post more with what is going to be done.
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Old 09-08-2011, 03:28 PM   #13
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No starter course?


So I talked with the contractor who did the roof. He says that a starter course is only for when you don't use the ice/snow guard. I'm not sure sure about that. He also says that if we used a starter course with my very low slant roof that it would make a "bump" at the eave, and make it harder for water to run into the gutters. He does acknowledge, though, that the ice/water guard should have been put on top of the drip edge rather than under it so that water running down it will still find it's way into the gutter. That's what's causing the one leak that I found.

Anyway, he's saying he can install flashing, about 6-8" wide and lengths as long as he can handle, to be placed under the first course of shingles - tucked back as far as possible - and going over the drip edge to catch any water that finds it's way between the butt joints of my first row of shingles and carry it down into the gutters. Doing this may also help with the water that finds it's way between the drip edge and the back of the gutters, right?

Any thoughts or concerns before we proceed with this course of action?
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:53 AM   #14
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No starter course?


We're going to be installing this flashing idea this evening and over the weekend unless I hear of any better options. Thanks again for the help with this!
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Old 09-09-2011, 10:49 PM   #15
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No starter course?


Get a real roofer.

Ask him what not having starter course on does to the shingle wind warranty.

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