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Old 06-08-2010, 09:54 AM   #1
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Newly Installed Roof Drip Edge question w/pics


The contactor did this job a few days ago and after they left I noticed that the shingles are not flush with the drip edge in spots and are sticking up 2 to 3 inches at the drip edge. Does it look to be a problem? To me as the homeowner I think the water could leach back under the shingles or not make into the gutters properly. Plus all the problems wind could cause. They are coming out to look at it and I don't know what to say any help is appreciated.
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Last edited by searayrunner; 06-10-2010 at 07:49 AM.
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Old 06-08-2010, 12:52 PM   #2
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Newly Installed Roof Drip Edge question w/pics


I would not be happy.Which i'm sure your not.The drip edge appears to be hanging to far out,wrinkled and looks like it isn't fastened correctly.He also didnt pop lines for the shingles.Looks like his coarses ran high then he tried to drop them.I also see where he dabbed tar to possible hold the first coarse to the drip edge.Very shoddy workmanship.Its possible that it can leak in a driving ran with winds blowing in that direction.Not to mention the wind could blow the areas up.I never run my first coarse of shingles flush with the drip.I always leave a 1/2 inch overhang.It is fixable,and diffently needs attention.

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Old 06-08-2010, 02:09 PM   #3
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Looks like they must have left the chalk line at home that day.

From what I understand, FL code requires the shingles to be flush with the drip edge. In Fl, I would install the shingles flush. In the other 49 states and Canada, I'd overhang them a minimum of 1/2".

I'd call for a mulligan on that section of roof and any others that look like that.
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:27 PM   #4
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Thanks for the help so far.

They are coming sometime this week to look at it. What should I be expecting to be done as a permanat fix. Do they need to replace the ice shield or just black jack the old holes and fix a few shingles or the whole botton section? What do you all think is the best fix or any other ideas?
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:38 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by searayrunner View Post
Thanks for the help so far.

They are coming sometime this week to look at it. What should I be expecting to be done as a permanat fix. Do they need to replace the ice shield or just black jack the old holes and fix a few shingles or the whole botton section? What do you all think is the best fix or any other ideas?
They started off wrong. I'd insist they tear it off and do it all over again. If my guys had produced that roof, that's what they'd be doing if they wanted to get paid.
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:41 PM   #6
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I would have to say do it again aswell.The shingles cant be dropped to fill in the bottom.If that was done the shingles above would run higher then the nail lines of the next coarse.I disapprove of taring a brand new roof.You paid to have it done right the first time.So the contractor should honor that.
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:50 PM   #7
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When you say "do it again" do you mean the whole side of the house and ridge cap?
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:59 PM   #8
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When you say "do it again" do you mean the whole side of the house and ridge cap?

Exactly.The extra time and money to repair it is worth my reputation.Not to mention the fact it should have been do right the first time.
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:17 PM   #9
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Did a handyman/GC install this, or a roofing contractor?
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:08 PM   #10
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Actually it was the largest roofing contractor in my local area. I am really starting to get angry about the whole deal.
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:44 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by searayrunner View Post
Actually it was the largest roofing contractor in my local area. I am really starting to get angry about the whole deal.
Where do you live?

I guess a lot of contractors assume home owners never go up and check.
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:47 PM   #12
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I’m surprised none of the roofing pro’s here have clicked in yet.

Sloppy Job? Yes.

Worth tearing the roof off? No.

Worth tearing off if you are looking out of your second story window or deck and you can’t stand the sight of crooked lines? You might have something there.

Can it be fixed without the entire roof being tore off and still have a roof that doesn’t leak? Absolutely.

Most importantly, and the lesson to be learned here is if you hire the “largest roofing contractor in my local area” the owner/founder/pro roofer is the furthest eyes from the job.
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:09 PM   #13
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First off this is a bad display off workmanship the problem is not the drip edge is to far out it is that the shingles are too high above the drip edge.Was this a complete tear off? It looks to me like the drip edge was reused.If that roof is 1-2 weeks old it is impossible for that drip edge to show that much dirt unless you live on a dirt road.It is also obvious that no lines were used on the gutterline.Those shingles have a 5-5/8" exposure.,exposure meaning how much of the shingle is made to be exposed to the elements.Throughout this thread Florida was mentioned is this where you live? I was referred to Florida by one of our Missouri customers to roof several of they're families homes so I am no way affiliated with stormchasres.,Our roofs were inspected up to 3 times.If your in florida then this roof is definately a code violation according to the revised edition of the Florida building code.In Florida the drip edge has to be lapped 4" and the starter course should be lapped 7" and then the starter has to maintain a 6" offset.Then the starter has to be "bulled"(sealed) to the drip edge followed by the lap as well.With these obvious workmanship infractions one would have to wonder waht the nail patterns look like?In
Florida from Orlando north the requirments for fasteners is 5 nails with 4 out 5 nails within the nail strip.Orlando south the fastener requirements are 7 nails with 6 out of 7 nails within the nail strip.Regardless where you live no shingle manufacture on the planet will honor any material warranty if improper fastening is used.You could have total roof failure and if the workmanship is not to specification then it falls under a mechanical failure which means improper application.And if they reused the drip edge then you might wonder what else was reused?(Pipe flashings,vents,step flashing,ridge vents?)Actually I have a hard time detrmining if any starters were used.I would call your local building department to obtain a roof inspection.,it might cost you but how much would it cost later down the road.Have the inspector check nail patterns,flashing,valleys,vents etc.I would also look over your contract and start from the beginning and evaluate whether or not everything that you signed to have performed was in fact performed.What you have to do is obtain as much evidence of incompetence as you can to warrant a complete tear-off.The only way of fixing this proplem without a tear off is to pull the entire first course replace the drip edge and add a short course.,basically doubling up the first course to make up for the under course.It will look hideous because your 30yrs are thick and it will look bulky.,I would try to find as many imperfections as possible.,and I am not a double crossing contractor I am just sick of these wannabe contractors performing substandard workmanship practice.And with drip edge you are able to have 1" in the gutters and 1" on the rakes.,however I prefer about 1/4" past the drip edge because I feel it gives a cleaner look and the drip edge prevents the shingles from rolling into the gutters.Any more than 1/4" past the drip edge is pointless unless you have no gutters or have a problem with ice daming.Hope this helps..,,,Good luck

Last edited by Roofmaster417; 06-08-2010 at 11:11 PM.
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Old 06-09-2010, 12:24 AM   #14
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RoofMaster gave you a very valid opinion.

My main concern is about the possible omission of the Starter Strip Shingles since I could not tell for sure that they were installed also.

Will the roof leak because of that? Probably not, or at least not to invade the interior of the home, but unless they want to go to major expense to satisfy what should have started off correctly, they may offer to install 2 short courses in lieu of the one bottom course and that is a decision that you would have to accept or decline. It would be functional, but not aesthetically pleasing if this spot is in an obviously visible site line.

Most contractors, especially many of the the larger ones, use subcontractors that they farm out there work to, so I would see who did the job for them and put a gentle squeeze, but being reasonable at the same time to get the satisfaction that you desire.

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Old 06-09-2010, 06:31 AM   #15
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Even the biggest and the best are human, their installers screwed up.
'crew of employees or a sub crew is neither here nor there'
I can think of a half dozen reasons why something like this issue could occur, none of them are acceptable, but not all of them are neglect,
some times it's a simple matter of lack of experience.

The biggest contractor in your area will honor their workmanship commitment and do what's needed to correct the situation.

Do they need to completely re-do that section of roof, probably not. Inspect it first, than decide.
Do they need to inspect the entire section as well as the rest of the entire roof on your home, yes.

Once they have completed/corrected the issue and inspected the entire roof, have them put their findings & work performed in writing and make sure they note their additional work is guaranteed.

If they try and get out of fixing the issue/s, than get angry.

You already have before pictures, get during "if possible" and after.

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