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-   -   New roof - problems with old plywood (http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/new-roof-problems-old-plywood-179412/)

NWChris 05-12-2013 09:43 PM

New roof - problems with old plywood
 
Hi All,

I just had my roof replaced last week. The estimator initially felt that a lot of the plywood sheathing could be saved and thought that replacing all the sheathing was not necessary. We agreed that they would replace by the sheet and left the estimate open for additional plywood if it was needed. The contractor brought 30 sheets and ended up using them all. This was about half a roof worth of sheathing.

I went up on the roof this morning and did a walk around. I noticed that there are still soft spots in the sheathing in some areas. It is not extremely bad but bouncy when you put all your weight on it. Two small areas are bad.

I am wondering if this is normal to have a certain softness in a roof that is not completely new and if it was okay that they re-shingled over it. I am going to argue with them about fixing the two bad spots but do I have anything to worry about with the bouncy areas? When I called them this morning they seemed to get defensive about it and said that does not mean it is bad if it is a little soft.

I don't understand why they did not continue to replace plywood as I said I was fine with paying for it if it was necessary.

Thanks

Gary in WA 05-13-2013 12:05 AM

Welcome to the forums!

As you did not personally list/mark the areas for replacement but left it to their discretion, they fixed it to their standards. You could add solid blocking under the soft areas without fastening to the sheathing with a 2x4 flat, not on edge to block air flow. Nail to rafters/trusses only. House location means a lot- if 4' of snow/ice. They could easily replace the sheathing, anytime, at an extra charge. Terms of written contract- exact wording?

Gary

NWChris 05-13-2013 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary in WA (Post 1178121)
Welcome to the forums!

As you did not personally list/mark the areas for replacement but left it to their discretion, they fixed it to their standards. You could add solid blocking under the soft areas without fastening to the sheathing with a 2x4 flat, not on edge to block air flow. Nail to rafters/trusses only. House location means a lot- if 4' of snow/ice. They could easily replace the sheathing, anytime, at an extra charge. Terms of written contract- exact wording?

Gary

Thanks Gary. My problem with the contractor is that I was the one open to the entire redeck and they continually talked me into replacing only the pieces that need to be replaced. Also a piece around the chimney that they indicated needed to be replaced was not. From the attic you can see the past water damage.

I am located outside of Philadelphia and occasionally get heavy snow.

jagans 05-13-2013 10:07 AM

I generally agree with Gary, but:

1. What is your rafter spacing?

2. What is the thickness and type of your substrate (Decking)?

3. What do the stamps on your substrate say?

There is a difference between soft under foot, and bouncy, and anything that is water damaged should have been replaced.

As one of the professional painters says in his signature, it is better to come here with questions before you proceed, than to go ahead and do the job and come here to ask how to fix it.

In my opinion, and based on what you did, you would have been much better off simply specifying a complete new deck of 19/32 Fir plywood (Assuming 24" OC Rafter Spacing) It is always more expensive doing this on a unit price basis.

All the above notwithstanding, I think your contractor is an ass. If you told him to go ahead and replace it all and you would pay for it, what does he have to lose by replacing it? I learned a long time ago that if a man wants a green suit, you sell him a green suit, don't try to talk him into a blue one.

NWChris 05-13-2013 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jagans (Post 1178221)
I generally agree with Gary, but:

1. What is your rafter spacing?

2. What is the thickness and type of your substrate (Decking)?

3. What do the stamps on your substrate say?

There is a difference between soft under foot, and bouncy, and anything that is water damaged should have been replaced.

As one of the professional painters says in his signature, it is better to come here with questions before you proceed, than to go ahead and do the job and come here to ask how to fix it.

In my opinion, and based on what you did, you would have been much better off simply specifying a complete new deck of 19/32 Fir plywood (Assuming 24" OC Rafter Spacing) It is always more expensive doing this on a unit price basis.

All the above notwithstanding, I think your contractor is an ass. If you told him to go ahead and replace it all and you would pay for it, what does he have to lose by replacing it? I learned a long time ago that if a man wants a green suit, you sell him a green suit, don't try to talk him into a blue one.

Rafter spacing is 16" and decking is 1/2" plywood. I have no idea what the plywood type is but everything they did replace is solid.

jagans 05-13-2013 04:53 PM

1/2 inch APA rated sheathing is fine with 16" O.C. Support, with three support minimum.


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