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Old 10-21-2008, 07:45 AM   #16
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That info on sq/ft isnt on the quote but he has 50 ,1/2"osb sheets. so 1600 or less. I should have asked. Not to bad? Is it?

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Old 10-21-2008, 02:07 PM   #17
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Price is much less important than a very detailed written scope of work which covers all of the potential "What If" scenarios.

What is he doing for that price and what may need to be added on to the scope?

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Old 10-21-2008, 05:28 PM   #18
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As usual, Ed beat me to it.

Still gonna re-affirm it. Whether it's a good price or not depends on what you are getting for that price. With a job like yours, the job being done correctly is critical.
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Old 10-22-2008, 08:29 AM   #19
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That info on sq/ft isnt on the quote but he has 50 ,1/2"osb sheets. so 1600 or less. I should have asked. Not to bad? Is it?

well 50 sheets osb and a 30year landmark thats not a bad price. But you need a detailed estimate. Are you getting ice and water shield if so how many feet up? Does that include getting new furnance pipe? Hey i want 5/8 inch osb not 1/2 inch. I don't understand why more roofers aren't getting back with you. They should be slowing down now. Just sit tight until more get back to you. Finally do you have any neighbors who got new roofs for recomendations?
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Old 10-22-2008, 01:22 PM   #20
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Here ya go, just don't try pickin on our bones

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Old 10-22-2008, 01:29 PM   #21
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The house has a footprint of <> 1920sq/ft with a valley or two the garage of about the same but its all strait roof.
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Old 10-22-2008, 07:35 PM   #22
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Here ya go, just don't try pickin on our bones


Are there truly any flat roof areas or how low of a slope for those referenced to in the scratch pad estimate?

Gutter Apron Style Drip Edge at all eave edges and ODE drip edge along all gable/rake edges. There is a difference. What style is he using?

There is no 1/2" OSB. It is either 7/16" or 15/32" and is also a rated board for roof decking. Look up the APA Engineered Wood Products web site for the particular details and see why one is not correct to use per code and specifications.

Length of job and approximate start and finish dates.

Daily clean-up or just at end of job?

No mention of the roofing/building permit. If he picks it up, he is responsible for complying with the codes. If you pick it up, the onus falls on you.

Metal Ridge Vents are crappy and even most cheap builders stopped using them around 15 years ago. Blow offs in heavy winds and leakage and splice caps for every seam butt joint. Use the Shingle Vent II Ridge Vent instead and then have it capped with true Ridge Cap Accessory shingles.

There is no mention about addressing the Intake Ventilation for a proper balanced ventilation system.

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Old 10-22-2008, 07:44 PM   #23
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Roofing is Not Brain Surgery. There are many Wrong ways to roof a house. But…There is only…One “Right Way”, By Following All of the Manufacturers Specifications. Over 90 % of All Roofs Done - DO NOT Qualify for the Manufacturers Long Term Warranty!!! ( According to studies by GAF Roofing Corp., Air Vent Inc., & Alcoa )
10 Important Tips You Should



Always Follow On

“What You Should Know



Before Hiring Any Contractor!!!”



1) RELIABILITY: Verify that the contractor you call has been in business in your area for At Least 10 Years. Over 85 % of all roofing contractors are out of business in less than 5 years, way before the warranty expires and before many roofing problems begin to show up and cause problems. 85 % of those remaining do not last till the 10th year. (Department of Labor Statistics)


2) INTERVIEW: Make time to meet with any contractor you call, in person, at your home to review the proposal and detailed specifications. Try to select a Knowledgeable, Organized, Experienced, and Locally Established contractor who will take a personal interest in your roofing project. Choose one who has an established track record of many similar roofing projects done in your local area. If they will farm out your roofing job to an unknown subcontractor, you should interview them as well.


3) REFERENCES: Insist on a minimum of at least 20 - 50 recent job references &
also several from each year they say they were in business. Ask for customer
testimonials. Drive past several of the jobs to check for proper venting, flashing
details, and general appearance. Ask previous customers if they were satisfied and
if they would use them again. Contact your local
building inspector for verification.



4) BUYER BEWARE: Be suspicious if any contractor requires you to get the roofing permit. The party who applies for the permit is responsible for building code compliance. What happens when the roofing specs do not conform to the local codes? Why won’t they be responsible for it? Also, Do Not Ever pay more than 50 % when paying a deposit.


5) ADDRESS AND PHONE NUMBER:Make sure that the contractor actually has a physical location that you can find if you need to locate them in the future, not just a mailbox etc., drop box. Do they have an actual office and material storage shop or just work out of the back of their pick up truck. Make sure they have an actual local telephone # and not just a cell phone. When problems occur, it is much easier to find someone if you already know how to, in advance. Check out his drivers license address.


6) LICENSE, INSURANCE AND BONDS: Insist on receiving a copy of the Contractors State of Illinois Roofing License, General Liability Insurance, Workers Compensation Insurance and their Roofing Bond. Don’t just assume they have it because they tell you so. They should have enough pride in themselves to include a copy for each customer.


7) PROPOSAL AND/OR CONTRACT:Insist on a very thorough and detailed written proposal and examine it for complete descriptions of the work and specifications, including approximate length of the job and payment procedures. Verbal agreements should be added to the written agreement. You MUST, by law, be advised in writing of your 3-Day “Right To Rescind” if you change your mind and receive all of your deposit money refunded to you.


8.) EMPLOYEES OR SUB-CONTRACTORS: If your contractor farms out the job to a sub-contracting crew, they too must supply you with their Roofing License, General Liability and Workers Compensation Insurance and Roofing Bond. If they don’t and someone gets hurt, you may be liable. The sub-contractor should be interviewed as well. Dedicated trained experienced Employees are more desirable due to continuing training and experience.


9.) CONTRACTOR TRADE ASSOCIATIONS: Quality control begins with dedication, the amount of proper knowledge and previous training from past projects and from advanced learning through many contractor trade associations. Memberships in any related trade association and certificates of completion from manufacturers product training classes authenticate the more dedicated professional.



10) USE YOUR NOGGIN: 85 % of all construction lawsuits involve roofing related
problems. You only have one chance to make the “Right 1st Choice”. If one
contractor tells you something extremely different than another contractor, then
either do your own research or have the contractor provide documentation to justify
and support his analysis, especially about Intake & Exhaust Ventilation, Plywood
versus OSB Board or Particle Board, Ice & Water Shield & Flashings.

You need to be concerned with the initial price only once… But you are goingto be concerned about Quality…for many years to come!!!
The following named Roofing Contractor is an esteemed selected board member of the Professional Roofers Advisory Council, (PRAC). If You Want Solutions, Not Problems, Call…
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Old 10-23-2008, 07:14 AM   #24
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First I'm not going to scare off the ONLY roofer thats called!
Second NO codes here in the fly over parts of Iowa (In the county)
Also NO inspectors.
I'll look into the wood sheathing and the vent

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