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Old 06-14-2009, 08:37 AM   #61
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Not the real pro's. We have two people, sometimes 3, and do entire jobs from roofing, to siding, to additions, garages, whatever. Crews are for wimps.

Slyfox, you better be the finest roofer in the universe the way you always talk about workmanship. lol

You are correct though, many roofs fail because of poor quality, but the shingle itself fails because of a manufacturer problem usually.
Any decent roofer with a good distributer should be able to find out what any manufacturer or roofing, siding, etc. The records will still be handy, just saying, it's not necessary.

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Old 06-14-2009, 09:29 AM   #62
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You should take a couple pictures of wood replacement, felt paper installed, vents, flashing's 'pipe and chimney' and the shingles during install showing your fastening patterns, etc.
Than write down the information on the shingle wrappers,
lot#, date, which plant they came out of 'manufacturers have several plants', color, life span '25yr, 30yr, etc.' and put all the info- into a folder and keep safe, like where ever you keep your insurance documents, etc.

It's information you will need should you end up in failed roofing material situation.
Great advice! If someone doesn't have this information saved, how would they even know what company to call if there is a problem with their shingles?
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Old 06-14-2009, 09:33 AM   #63
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You hire a contractor.

For the DIY'er, it's great idea to keep those records. Most people remember what they put on, and most defects will show up within 5 years.
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Old 06-14-2009, 09:38 AM   #64
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Most crews I have seen are around 2-4 people
Depends upon the size of the roof too
Smaller roofs 2 people can handle
But seems they work on stripping one side 1st
Then 2 people start roofing that side while the other 2 strip the other side. I've seen roofs replaced in one day
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Old 06-14-2009, 11:28 AM   #65
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Slyfox, you better be the finest roofer in the universe the way you always talk about workmanship. lol
------------------------------------------------------------------------
LMAO,
I look at roofers the same as roofing materials, not one is the best in all area's.
I'm as good as any, better than most.

Other than the environmental issues 'weather conditions in certain areas'.
workmanship is the only other issue to explain how one roofer would say this or that shingle is trash and can/should not be used,
and than another roofer claim those same shingles to be the best on the market.

Plus, I was a repair tech- with every company I ever worked for.
You learn a lot when repairing your own work and even more when repairing other roofers work.
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Old 06-15-2009, 10:50 AM   #66
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A Duo-Fast Hammer Tacker, also know as a Slap Tacker is the best one to use, in my opinion, but they cost about $30.00 each.

3/8" staples work best for the felt paper.

If you have Menards stores by you, they carry the Duo-Fast.

Arrow brand would be the next best recommendation, but much farther down the scale, in my opinion.

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Old 06-15-2009, 08:15 PM   #67
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Glad it's going good thus far, are we going to see some pictures?

You should take a couple pictures of wood replacement, felt paper installed, vents, flashing's 'pipe and chimney' and the shingles during install showing your fastening patterns, etc.
Than write down the information on the shingle wrappers,
lot#, date, which plant they came out of 'manufacturers have several plants', color, life span '25yr, 30yr, etc.' and put all the info- into a folder and keep safe, like where ever you keep your insurance documents, etc.

It's information you will need should you end up in failed roofing material situation.

We haven't spoke about proper ventilation much yet,
there are 3 steps to be taken.
1. Intake, normally in the overhang coverings.
2. Free Flow, unobstructed air flow from the eave to the ridge.
3. Exhaust, vents placed near or on the ridge.
I'll try to get some pictures on here soon. I tried to get my girlfriend to snap a few pics while we were working over the weekend, but am not sure of the quality or quantity of pics that she took. It is supposed to rain ALL week, so I'll take a look at them soon and see what I've got.

About the ventilation, I currently don't have any at all. I am installing 4 box vents on one side and plan to add some intake vents under the eaves sometime after the rest of the roof is finished.

That's a good idea about keeping records for the warranty and what not. Thanks.

The roof was going well, but now it's taken a bit of a turn. First, we were working on Sunday and it started raining on us. So in addition to frantically trying to get all the tools and loose shingles inside, I had to scramble all over the wet roof trying to get tarps put down. I slipped because it was wet and almost fell off. The wind was incredibly strong and threatened to pull all the tarps off, so I had to nail them down everywhere, including over the newly installed shingles in some areas. And I've got 2.5 and 5 pound weights hanging on bungees from the tarp grommets all around the house. It looks ridiculous.

Not to mention I had my a few people helping me install shingles that day, and they messed a lot of stuff up by laying shingles crooked or not staggering them. So I had to rip all those off.

And I tried to get a couple hours of roofing in after work today, but I noticed that a couple of boards on the deck had been completely snapped in half, under a row of new shingles. So now I have to tear that whole corner of shingles off, the drip edge, and the felt paper so I can cut out and replace those boards. Then redo it all again. Fantastic.


I do have a couple install questions...

If there are extra holes in a shingle (from removing a nail or whatnot), do you have to worry about sealing them as long as they are underneath the shingle above?

I've got 1x6 planks for the deck, and very often it seems like when I put the nails in, they are hitting nothing at all (likely a seam in between the planks). In this case, it is ok to move the nail upwards off of the nailing strip?

Last edited by dc4nomore; 06-15-2009 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 06-15-2009, 08:21 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by Ed the Roofer View Post
A Duo-Fast Hammer Tacker, also know as a Slap Tacker is the best one to use, in my opinion, but they cost about $30.00 each.

3/8" staples work best for the felt paper.

If you have Menards stores by you, they carry the Duo-Fast.

Arrow brand would be the next best recommendation, but much farther down the scale, in my opinion.

Ed
Ok I'll definitely go with 3/8" for the other side.

We don't have a Menard's around here, and I haven't seen the Duo-Fast. I have seen the Arrow one, but even it was $30, and it looks absolutely identical to my harbor freight one. I will definitely have to get something though because the cheap ones I've got just don't cut it.
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Old 06-15-2009, 08:55 PM   #69
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I used to have the same problems with the Arrows as you are having with the Harbor Freight.

Is their an ABC Supply in your area? They carry the Duo-Fast also. Make sure you buy their brand of staples too.

The Bostich Slap tackers are probably the best, but those things cost over $50.00 each and use a staple shaped like a gabled house and cost a lot more too.

Per your questions to Sly, yes you should insert some roofing sealant into the holes, even if they are covered by the succeeding course of shingles, due to wind blowing rain upwards on the roof and under the tabs.

Also, yes it is okay to adjust the nailing position so that you do not wind up in the gap between the two plank boards.

Ed
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Old 06-15-2009, 09:18 PM   #70
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I used to have the same problems with the Arrows as you are having with the Harbor Freight.

Is their an ABC Supply in your area? They carry the Duo-Fast also. Make sure you buy their brand of staples too.

The Bostich Slap tackers are probably the best, but those things cost over $50.00 each and use a staple shaped like a gabled house and cost a lot more too.

Per your questions to Sly, yes you should insert some roofing sealant into the holes, even if they are covered by the succeeding course of shingles, due to wind blowing rain upwards on the roof and under the tabs.

Also, yes it is okay to adjust the nailing position so that you do not wind up in the gap between the two plank boards.

Ed
I googled it and I guess there is an ABC supply near me. I will check them out when I get a chance. Thanks for the tip on that.

And I wasn't necessarily directing those questions at Sly only...and since you went ahead and answered, that takes care of that. It will take longer to seal the holes, but as long as it does a better job, I'm all for it. Thanks.
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Old 06-16-2009, 08:04 AM   #71
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I was hoping Ed or MJW would answer your staple questions because I do not use them, I hand nail everything, including the felt with either roofing hand nails or cap nails so I knew they would give a better answer.

Ed's correct about using roof cement to cover the old nail holes in the shingles you pulled up.
You also need to apply roof cement on the self sealing strip if it was damaged when you pulled them up, some times they rip and leave fibers from the interior felts showing and they will prevent the shingle from properly sealing.

Always use roof cement when your sealing the shingles, it's made up of the same materials and will allow a bonding seal,
metal, concrete, gutters, etc., will require a different type of caulking.

Measure down from the ridge of the roof to the top of your highest installed shingle, than go to the other end of the roof and measure down and mark it, than using a chalk line snap a line from those two points.
That line will be a guide while your straightening your shingle courses out,
meaning you'll want the shingles at the other end to end up on or very close to that line.

You never want to run your shingles high, do what you have to running them low to get them back on course.
The lower you run a course the easier you'll be able to see it from the ground, thus, take your time and keep them as close to the notches / guide strip as possible.

When you get those nails that hit the gap between boards, pull them out or leave them but cover them with roof cement either way,
the heat over the years will actually suck them upward creating a pop up,
a pop up will not leak more often than it will but they will leak on driving rains and snow/ice back ups.
plus that dab of roof cement will help against wind lift which sometimes can be an issue when you nail above the nail strip.
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Old 06-17-2009, 11:39 PM   #72
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You also need to apply roof cement on the self sealing strip if it was damaged when you pulled them up, some times they rip and leave fibers from the interior felts showing and they will prevent the shingle from properly sealing.
So that strip on the back side with the cellophane on it, is actually a self sealing strip? Does the cellophane melt into the tar when it heats up? So then I suppose on the starters, they are supposed to be installed with the strip towards bottom? Yeah...I installed it towards the top. I'll just dab a little cement in there along the edge...

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Old 06-18-2009, 07:26 AM   #73
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This is getting a little out of hand with the "sealing" and roof cement. We have done thousands of square in the past and never even brought out the caulking gun. Do what you want, but I just had to say that.........don't worry too much. If it is steep enough to need roof jacks, you won't have any problems with a tiny nail hole.

The plastic cellophane strip is only for one thing that I mentioned way back in this thread.........it's purpose is to prevent the shingles from sticking together in the bundle.
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Old 06-18-2009, 11:36 AM   #74
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This is getting a little out of hand with the "sealing" and roof cement. We have done thousands of square in the past and never even brought out the caulking gun. Do what you want, but I just had to say that.........don't worry too much. If it is steep enough to need roof jacks, you won't have any problems with a tiny nail hole.

The plastic cellophane strip is only for one thing that I mentioned way back in this thread.........it's purpose is to prevent the shingles from sticking together in the bundle.
I don't carry roof cement of a shingle roof either, but I don't tear badly installed shingles off and re-use them either tho, nor do I install more than a few nails into gaps because once you have one nail hit a gap you know that course will be a lil high all the way across that section.
The talk about roof cement is to re seal shingles that he has torn off and is going to re-use and if the sealer strip was damaged when he pulled them up than that surely should be resealed also, but only if it was damaged.

Were not helping a newbie roofer out here, were helping a home owner that is doing this for the very first time, thus all precautions should be taken to make sure he provides himself and his family with a secure roof over their heads.

I would have done several things differently than how I told him to do them, but I have been doing this type of work for a few years as a teen and all of my adult life.
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Old 06-18-2009, 11:43 AM   #75
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[quote=dc4nomore;289178]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slyfox View Post
You also need to apply roof cement on the self sealing strip if it was damaged when you pulled them up, some times they rip and leave fibers from the interior felts showing and they will prevent the shingle from properly sealing.[\quote]

So that strip on the back side with the cellophane on it, is actually a self sealing strip? Does the cellophane melt into the tar when it heats up? So then I suppose on the starters, they are supposed to be installed with the strip towards bottom? Yeah...I installed it towards the top. I'll just dab a little cement in there along the edge...
Yes it is a sealer strip, but when laying your starters the granule side goe's up, that will seal against the first shingle installed over it.

You do not have to do anything with that strip, unless, you damaged it on the shingles you pulled up and are going to reuse.

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