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Old 06-10-2009, 07:19 PM   #31
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My older shingles from GAF (07) had the tar strip on the face
Now its on the back side at the bottom edge of the shingle
Sucks cause I like to have the shingles face up with architect series
Much easier to put them down when you can see the pattern

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Old 06-10-2009, 07:58 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by MJW View Post
Cut them where the two laminates meet and use the single layer.

What kind of shingles are they with the tar strip on the face?

I wouldn't worry about sealing the bottom row. It's a good idea, but roofs were put on for many years without sealing the bottom row to the starter.

3 tabs work good, but it's easier using a shingle the same size as the starter. All the laminates I know of are metric here, but could be english in your area (36"). 3 tabs work the best if you cut the tabs off and put the tar strip at the bottom.
My new shingles are dimensionals, BP brand. They are 14" high by 40" wide. The tar strip I'm referring to is actually just 8 or 10 dabs of adhesive along the nail line, I guess to help hold down the next shingle. There is another sort of "strip" on the other side, along the middle. But this strip is covered with a layer of clear tape and it says "do not remove this tape" so I'm not sure what that is for.
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Old 06-10-2009, 08:13 PM   #33
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That tape it to prevent them from sticking together in the bundle.
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Old 06-10-2009, 08:46 PM   #34
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That tape it to prevent them from sticking together in the bundle.
So are you saying the tape should be removed before installing the shingles?
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Old 06-10-2009, 08:54 PM   #35
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Yep, every one.

Go look at them again.
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Old 06-10-2009, 09:20 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by MJW View Post
Yep, every one.

Go look at them again.
But why would it say "do not remove" right on the shingle? And it is fairly difficult to remove the tape and it comes off in random, sometimes small pieces, which would make it take even longer to remove.
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Old 06-10-2009, 09:50 PM   #37
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He is kidding you, hence the "Winking" Smiley.

Leave the cellophane tape strip on and olnly remove any straggling pieces that float out of the shingles on occassion.

They do not harm anything, nor prevent any sealing where they are postitioned, when the shingles are installed at the right exposure.

Did you ever hear back from that roofer again?

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Old 06-11-2009, 01:42 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Ed the Roofer View Post
He is kidding you, hence the "Winking" Smiley.

Did you ever hear back from that roofer again?

Ed
Ahh ok...I was gonna say...

The roofer has made no attempt to contact me, nor has he answered or returned my phone calls. I filed a police report today, and the police officer called him. He picked up the phone this time, and tried to get me to give him one more chance and said he'd come out Friday morning. I told him he lost his chance and that I had made other arrangements. I told him I wanted my $400 deposit back. He refused, stating that we were in a "contract" since I signed an estimate he wrote up. He threatened to take me to court, and said that even if I had someone else (or myself) do the roof, I would still have to pay him the remaining $1200 as stated in our "contract". Ha. I'd like to see that happen. It wasn't really a contract anyways, and he broke it by not finishing (or even starting) the job when he said he would.
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Old 06-11-2009, 02:54 AM   #39
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Send him a certified letter, return receipt requested, detailing the failure of him to comply with the contract and broken promises to show up.

This way, you create an authentic legal paper trail if and when this matter ever goes to court, or even the threat of court.

He will find out that it will cost him much more than $400.00 to defend his position, right or wrong.

Ed
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Old 06-11-2009, 07:28 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by dc4nomore View Post
I wasn't aware that there are two types of flashing, sub and counter. Thanks for pointing that out.

Could you please clarify what you mean by the following statement. It seems like you're telling me not to put any nails on, but then say to put nails on 1" from the edge:

"You want -0- nails in the L flashing field, nail roughly 1" in from the edges."

Also, I thought that the visible part of the step flashing ran in horizontal "steps" up the chimney. It seems like if I put in the step flashing, the exposed sections on the brick would be running parallel to the roof slope, and not horizontal. Is this what the counter flashing is for?

Thanks!
Sorry, I did word that pretty bad.
When you set your L flashing, you will nail across the top 'on roof deck' roughly one inch from the edge.
on the side of the L flashing you will do the same but you can not go all the way down to the chimney, it's hard to say exactly how close or far from the chimney your nails should be with out a visual/picture.
if your L flashing 'roof deck part only' is 18' by 22" the first inch in is the nail strip, the rest of it is what i called the field, the less nails in the field, the less risk of leakage in that area.


I spoke of two different methods for cutting your own starters because I was using 3-tabs in one example and laminates in another.
On your shingles, you will turn them over with the face of the shingle down and cut along the line where they are laminated together.


Step flashing's should be bent to where there's roughly 3" - 4" of each piece running up the chimney, the same or more running onto the roof deck and be at least 1" longer than the non exposed section of your shingle is high.
If your shingle is 14" high, and 5" is exposed, than 9" is not exposed, thus your step flashing's would be at least 10" long.
The part on the roof deck will be covered by shingle, the part going up the wall will be covered by counter flashing.


Another piece of prep work for you would be to go on line to the manufacturers website 'google it' and read up on installment procedures.
They will not only show spec's about fasteners, but also about flashing's, course adjustments, etc.
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Old 06-11-2009, 07:42 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed the Roofer View Post
Send him a certified letter, return receipt requested, detailing the failure of him to comply with the contract and broken promises to show up.

This way, you create an authentic legal paper trail if and when this matter ever goes to court, or even the threat of court.

He will find out that it will cost him much more than $400.00 to defend his position, right or wrong.

Ed
In Ohio a signed proposal is a binding contract, assuming you
'the home owner' signed it.
Thus you probably should do like Ed suggest in case the roofer pushes the issue, because if he/she shows reasonable cause 'weather, family death,
hurt his/her back at work, entire crew quit, etc., etc., he/she could be rewarded the remaining monies owed 'according to the signed proposal'.

Another avenue would be to renegotiate, tell the roofer your going to tear the existing off now that your all hyped to doing so and have him/her come in and install the new.
You may even end up selling all those roof jack's 'that you'll not need again' to the roofer.
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Old 06-11-2009, 08:15 AM   #42
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Just to speak more about the legal issues,
I was under the impression you had hired some week end warrior/fly by nite,
that you would not hear from again.

If you 'home owner' signed the roofers written estimate/proposal,
you are bound to that contract.
If money exchanged hands but there was no signature, than maybe you are, maybe you are not.

The re-roof I was supposed to start this am has been delayed due to weather, I all ready spoke with the home owner, have spoken with her three times this week.
The only contract I have with her is a signed proposal, that proposal became a contracted agreement the second she 'home owner' placed her signature on the piece of paper.

I always inform people up front 'home owners or contractors' that my schedule revolves around the weather.
I agree to start your job on the first of July, than I miss 6 days work the last two weeks of June, than your start date would be the seventh of July.
I would call to confirm that with you rather than assuming you will know that by our conversation during the estimate/signing meeting,
but even if I did assume, rather than calling to confirm, our contract would still be in tact.
The Judge would laugh at me for assuming, but once I produced a dozen signed letters from home owners and contractors with them confirming that I always am very informative about the weather and it's possibly delaying the start time of work, He would side with me.

I'm not trying to say the roofer had a legit reason for not calling to let you know why he/she was not going to be there on schedule.

I'm just saying, OJ is in prison for beating up and threatening some dude,
not for murdering his wife and her friend.
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Old 06-11-2009, 06:25 PM   #43
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I sent the roofer the below certified letter. I had it notarized as well. What do you guys think?

Mr. Gibson,

This letter is to serve as official notice that the contract to complete our roofing job, at (address removed), signed by you and myself, has been broken by you and is now null and void.

We feel that you have had more than a reasonable amount of time to complete the work which you promised to do, including numerous days where the weather was ideal for a roofing job. Your attitude regarding the matter, which is very unprofessional and inconsiderate, has forced us to make other arrangements to complete our roofing job. There have been multiple times when you did not show up at all, and did not even bother to call and explain why you did not show up. Specifically, and most notably, I met you on 6/2/09 and gave you a $400 deposit towards our roofing job. You promised to begin work on 6/5/09, weather permitting. The weather was favorable to start the job that day, yet you did not show up, or even bother to call us or return our calls. Once I finally was able to reach you late that evening, you gave another mediocre excuse as to why you didn’t show, and asked to begin the job the next day. You then proceeded to not show up two more times, which is more than I am willing to put up with. I do not have time to wait around for you to do the roof whenever it is convenient for you. In addition to you breaking our contract, your behavior in this matter has given me reason to significantly doubt the quality of your character, and I no longer wish to do business with you.


I have asked for our $400 deposit back, which you refused. I even offered to allow you to keep $100 of the deposit for your trouble, which you again refused. We plan to take legal action to recuperate our loss, if an agreement cannot be reached.
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Old 06-11-2009, 06:37 PM   #44
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With all due respect......it's only been 9 days and you haven't started yet either.

You don't have to "wait around" for a contractor. He doesn't 'have' to do the job. You hired him, but you are not his boss persay, meaning you are not paying him by the hour. There is a big difference when hiring a contractor and buying a hamburger. This is why we never guarantee any times of when we will be there and when we will be done.

I'm sorry sir, but only 9 days....I would gladly give your money back and go to the next job.
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Old 06-11-2009, 06:44 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slyfox View Post
Sorry, I did word that pretty bad.
When you set your L flashing, you will nail across the top 'on roof deck' roughly one inch from the edge.
on the side of the L flashing you will do the same but you can not go all the way down to the chimney, it's hard to say exactly how close or far from the chimney your nails should be with out a visual/picture.
if your L flashing 'roof deck part only' is 18' by 22" the first inch in is the nail strip, the rest of it is what i called the field, the less nails in the field, the less risk of leakage in that area.


I spoke of two different methods for cutting your own starters because I was using 3-tabs in one example and laminates in another.
On your shingles, you will turn them over with the face of the shingle down and cut along the line where they are laminated together.


Step flashing's should be bent to where there's roughly 3" - 4" of each piece running up the chimney, the same or more running onto the roof deck and be at least 1" longer than the non exposed section of your shingle is high.
If your shingle is 14" high, and 5" is exposed, than 9" is not exposed, thus your step flashing's would be at least 10" long.
The part on the roof deck will be covered by shingle, the part going up the wall will be covered by counter flashing.


Another piece of prep work for you would be to go on line to the manufacturers website 'google it' and read up on installment procedures.
They will not only show spec's about fasteners, but also about flashing's, course adjustments, etc.
My shingles are 14" high, with 6" exposed and 8" unexposed. So I will need flashing at least 9" long? I will have to return what I bought then because what I bought is 5" by 7". Do I bend the flashing on the short axis or the longer axis?

I'm not really sure about the L flashing, but I will look at the Depot tonight to see what they have. Is that stuff sold in one big piece, like 2 feet by 3 feet? Also I guess I still need the counter flashing...

Rain today and yesterday, so now tomorrow is the big day...

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