Need roof repair in Phoenix AZ

pawned · 06-01-2006, 10:44 AM

I would normally do this myself, but am now disabled and wife has a fit when she sees me on a ladder.

This is the overhang of the roof directly next to the chimney.
One picture is from the underside and shows that the rot is pretty much in the one spot only.
The other picture is from above and I show the roof and cricket of the chimney.

I have not investigated this too much. but can not see where the water is getting in. I also never looked if this was existing before I had the roof reroofed about 6 years ago.
I do not know if I should just monitor it to see if it does get wet when the rains come (if ever).

Suggestions

or if there is a roofer that wants a side job email me at pawned@cox.net

Thanks

Ed

AaronB · 06-01-2006, 11:05 PM

I think I would check the nail placement of those lower courses and also re-seal the top of the counter flashings and mortar reglet. That is if there is a proper step flashing assembly. If those are all correct, then I would dis-assemble it at the bottom of the roof and find the source.

pawned · 06-02-2006, 07:58 PM

IF I find that the cause of the water damage (rot) has been repaired at the last reroofing. If there is no additional water seepage onto that piece of roof deck.

Would if be a bad idea to fix the decking with autobody filler?

Normally, I would not think to do this. I would tear off the board and reroof that area, but as I told you I am now disabled and am not able to do any work for more than an hour or two without putting myself in danger. (especially on a roof or ladder)

Any work I do usually takes up to one week of bed rest to recoup from the exerction.

I hate to even think of a patch like this, but this is a health issue

MJW · 06-04-2006, 06:20 PM

Looks to me like 2 layers of shingles. Overlays always leak prematurely. That pipe isn't in a good place either. If I'm right, it should have been torn off and I&W installed. This way it would have been done right.

AaronB · 06-05-2006, 12:26 AM

LEts not start his relying on Ice barriers to install our roofing watertight ideal....they roofed without it for centuries, and had watertight roofing, too.

I still say start at the chimney.

I do not think that pipe has anything to do with it.

MJW · 06-05-2006, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AaronB

LEts not start his relying on Ice barriers to install our roofing watertight ideal....they roofed without it for centuries, and had watertight roofing, too.

I still say start at the chimney.

I do not think that pipe has anything to do with it.

You're right, don't rely on ice barriers, but it would be a good thing to have under there. I was mainly talking about the overlay when I said doing it right. Obviously it is the chimney leaking, but I bet it is on account of it not flashed correctly and/or the overlay. It looks like a nice saddle there though. At least that was done right.

pawned · 06-07-2006, 02:13 AM

I really appreciate all the feedback on this.
any more would be appreciated

pawned

pawned · 06-12-2006, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJW

You're right, don't rely on ice barriers, but it would be a good thing to have under there. .

I am sure that there is NO ice barrier under there.

This is the Phoenix area. once every 5 or 6 years it goes below freezing and only for an hour of two at most.
Most of the damage here is from UV rays and temps that exceed 115.

I am sure the roof gets even hotter. We never walk on the roof if the temp is above 80 degrees, the shingles start to soften up and walking will damage the shingles