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-   -   Need to modify drip edging but how? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/need-modify-drip-edging-but-how-197766/)

DwayneAB 03-13-2014 10:51 PM

Need to modify drip edging but how?
 
The roof over my patio is an extension of the regular roof. It appears when the home was built the patio was covered with open rafters and later those rafters were covered so the ceiling has a plywood covering . When doing so they added a 1x2 along the outer bottom edge of the eaves to cover the end of the plywood ceiling panels Although it gives a clean finish to the eaves it has become a problem.
During wet weather (rain or snow) the water running off the roof runs over the drip edging and onto the 1x2 at the bottom of the eave. That is causing a build up of water and moisture that causes the paint to come loose and I am seeing some degraded wood surfaces.
I plan on scraping the paint off, sanding the wood down, filling with caulk, sanding again, priming and then painting - BUT I know I will have the problem again.
TWO QUESTIONS: (1) is there some type of material I can cover the degraded wood with or will good caulking do it.
(2) Is there some type flashing that will slide under the normal drip edge, come down the 2x6 eave and be able to bend or fit over the 1x2 trim so the water will continue to run off without damaging the wood anymore?

TedLeger 03-14-2014 12:14 AM

cover
 
I think I am understanding you correctly, but if not, I do apologize. Pictures would help though.

If the wood isn't rotted, you can save yourself the trouble with the caulking, etc...(again, I am not exactly sure if I am understanding you, but I think I do.)

You can just wrap it all with metal. If you go to a metal building supply, a sheet metal shop, or a place that sells metal roofing, you can get them to bend the metal for you. You would have to tell them the way you want the metal to wrap around the board, and they will bend it on a brake.

We always glue the metal on with liquid nails. Once you apply it, put the metal on the wood, pull it off, then put it back on. Screws aren't necessary and it will have a cleaner look without them. Make sure that the metal tucks under whatever soffit you have, or it will leak right into the metal, and rot the wood.

Again, pictures would help us to know exactly what you are talking about.

joecaption 03-14-2014 06:41 AM

That would be the simplest way to do, but a to add to that, the wood strip may be able to be removed and use the coil stock to take it's place to cover up the ends of the plywood.
PS, no way would I be gluing it in place. It's done with what's called trim nails. Metal expands at a different rate then the wood, It's going to cause the metal to buckle or come loose.
Any siding company could bend these for you one site in just a few min.
No way would I want to try and have them bent off site and then try to transport them.
There To easily damaged.

joecaption 03-14-2014 06:43 AM

A rain gutter may also be called for.

1985gt 03-14-2014 07:27 AM

Unless your using a heavier gauge metal, 26 ga + having it done on site will minimize the risk of the metal being damaged in shipping. There really is no reason to have a heavier gauge bent for this. Some times we will do fasica wraps in 24 ga but it really isn't nessisary on most residential homes. Most of the time its because it's a multi step fasica. And hopefully the experienced person you pick puts it on with nails. There is ways to hide the nails if looks are an issue but glue will not last long like Joe said.

DwayneAB 03-14-2014 10:10 AM

Many thanks - all good and appreciated replys. Advertisements cut off some of the left side of the comments but I got the message anyway. I was fearful I may have to tear the old boards off and rebuild; that's beyond my skill level.
Still wonder if I should sand and caulk before repainting and covering. If so, what should I use to cover the wood before paining (long life caulk, etc.) ?

It is great being able to ask and get answers - again, thanks to all!

1985gt 03-14-2014 11:24 AM

If the boards are not rotten you could sand them, putting a coat of good primer would be a good idea just in case some moisture gets in there. Covering the wood in caulking, you wouldn't be able to sand it.

TedLeger 03-14-2014 03:18 PM

Have you ever glued them before? We always glue them up and never have an issue with them. The liquid nails never solidifies, so it moves with the metal. We have been wrapping fascia boards for years that way without ever a problem. I mean I have never gotten a call back. And we always transport the metal because we don't have to carry the portable break around.

How come people think there is only one method of working with something? If someone never has an issue doing things a certain way, then you keep doing it that way. Reply the way you want to to this post, but I am going to keep wrapping the wood by gluing it up. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

1985gt 03-14-2014 03:27 PM

If it never solidifies how does it hold the piece up? Not solidifying to me is like water stop, sure it will hold for awhile but it will slowly side down leaving a mess to go with it. What liquid nails are you using? I'll be honest we rarely if ever use any liquid nails.

If I was to glue it up I would use NP-1, that would allow some expansion and contraction. The liquid nails I'm use to because hard as a rock. Not like a urethane caulking.

Again we don't wrap many fascia's but when we do it has multiple steps and we use 24 gauge, Whitney punched and nailed above the drip edge before it is installed. Some times it's face nailed if you can't hook the bottom.

There's also a reason why they are portable brakes, so you can move them around. We don't bend light gage metal. But I have put or Chicago brake on a trailer for one job, the other time it was for moving to the new shop, now it sits and the Cidan brake gets all the action. 1/2 the man power to run and 10 times the speed.

TedLeger 03-16-2014 04:23 PM

fascia
 
I just realized I sounded cranky in my last post, and I do apologize for this. I shouldn't have responded like that.

There is a job that we did about 10 years ago, wrapping the fascia with metal and using liquid nails. It is still going strong. With liquid nails, you have to apply the liquid nails, then put the piece up, pull it off, then put it back up again.

I personally never had liquid nails dry on me before, and I have done a lot of remodeling and home improvement over the last 15 years or so, including the roofing. I have used it quite a bit and never had a problem with it, but that may be just me. Others may have had a bad experience with it, so I can't say for anyone else.

I did check the liquid nails website because I never had it dry on me like that, and there was a list of questions on there. One of them was:

"Will LIQUID NAILS Adhesive products become rock hard after they dry?"

The answer was:

"No. LIQUID NAILS construction adhesive and caulk products remain flexible to allow for expansion and contraction of the substrates."

Again, someone else may have had an issue with it, but I never have. And sorry again for being such a grouch the last couple of posts. I know you have been in the business for a long time, so apparently you know your stuff as well.

TedLeger 03-16-2014 04:26 PM

brake
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 1985gt (Post 1322038)
1/2 the man power to run and 10 times the speed.

That sounds like a great break. So it only takes one person to use it? How does that work? That sounds like it is something worth investing in.

Windows on Wash 03-16-2014 11:02 PM

Things of beauty but $$$

1985gt 03-17-2014 11:18 AM

It's computerized. http://www.petersenmachinery.com/fol...ew=application Program in your profile and go to work. Ours is older then the one pictured and thankfully it's not that neon green. One of the best pieces of equipment we've ever purchased. You don't have to worry about the guy on the other side of the brake missing his mark. No need to "prick" each piece, just cut your blanks and feed them, push the pedal a few times and wala. It does have some limits though, bending a collector head would take longer plus ours doesn't have the box and pan option. So we still have the Chicago, and a 4' box and pan.

joecaption 03-17-2014 12:22 PM

Fine machine and might be great for commercial but useless for residential siding jobs.

1985gt 03-17-2014 12:26 PM

Correct, Since we are 98% low slope residential and commercial it fits us. I did fold the 24 fascia wrap on it though. Fit perfectly. :whistling2:


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