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Old 08-26-2010, 12:29 PM   #46
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My Flat roof project-help!


Yes, only where the hangers are but it shouldn't look that ugly
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Old 08-26-2010, 01:14 PM   #47
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My Flat roof project-help!


haha yea thanks looks awful to me. all of that flashing needs to come up when they put the new roof in right
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Old 08-26-2010, 01:50 PM   #48
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Please, I'm begging you.......and the cost may surprise you, and not to under-cut all these professional roofers that have offered help and ideas, but I've been in the building trades for quite a few years and I'm stuck with this proposal. Since I'm so cheap ,this is how I'd go about it......Go to a local large home builder and see if you can find out who the hired in rough carpenter crew is (probably out of work now) and talk to them as they'll have the insurance . I can't see all your roof, and I could be way off base, but 5 grand would go a long way with a gable roof system. A good framing crew could frame in your roof in less than three days,to do the finish work, call in a siding man. So there.......Bernie
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Old 08-28-2010, 10:43 AM   #49
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i appreciate your concern. its just that i dont have the money to go and take on such a project right now. and also i have a ton of other projects that needs to be addressed before it gets cold again, so i also am looking for something that wont require more time and getting permits, etc.
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Old 08-28-2010, 10:49 AM   #50
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so i think i have decided going with a firestone 180 APP mod bit on the flat slope and 30year certainweed shingles on the steeper side. what do you experts think?
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Old 08-28-2010, 12:46 PM   #51
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Good choice on both. Show us pics when it's done
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Old 08-28-2010, 07:54 PM   #52
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so these 2 products are good quality. in regards to the 2 different slopes though, how do you correctly flash the two materials together at teh ridge? also, what do you think would be best to vent it? i was thinking like 2 or 3 box vents. would that suffice?
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Old 08-29-2010, 06:03 AM   #53
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so these 2 products are good quality. in regards to the 2 different slopes though, how do you correctly flash the two materials together at teh ridge? also, what do you think would be best to vent it? i was thinking like 2 or 3 box vents. would that suffice?
Shingle ridge caps.

How big is the attic you're venting?
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Old 08-29-2010, 06:44 PM   #54
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Shingle ridge caps.

How big is the attic you're venting?
sorry i dont know what shingle ridge caps look like...

the attic is finished so its not a big space. i would say about 3ft in height max
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Old 08-31-2010, 06:42 AM   #55
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so i think i have decided going with a firestone 180 APP mod bit on the flat slope and 30year certainweed shingles on the steeper side. what do you experts think?
APP 180 is a granulated modified bitumen rated at 15-20 years depending on installation method. How are they installing it?
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Sometimes the savings that comes from doing it yourself can be blown away with one mistake.

The information found in this post is not to be considered legal advice. All information should be considered relative, not specific. Never attempt any repairs you are not comfortable with. Always maintain safety! The author of this post takes no responsibility for any losses that occur. Use at your own risk.
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Old 08-31-2010, 06:44 AM   #56
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so these 2 products are good quality. in regards to the 2 different slopes though, how do you correctly flash the two materials together at teh ridge? also, what do you think would be best to vent it? i was thinking like 2 or 3 box vents. would that suffice?
If I am thinking what youa re asking, you are asking how to flash where the shingle meets the flat at a kind of ridge... Shingle first, modified wraps over the shingles 3-4" then a strip of metal is installed and stripped in.

Alternatively you can use the reverse strip in, where you installin the strin in first under the metal and then seal the field membrane to the metal, but the end result is the same. Always use metal at your flat roof edges.
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Sometimes the savings that comes from doing it yourself can be blown away with one mistake.

The information found in this post is not to be considered legal advice. All information should be considered relative, not specific. Never attempt any repairs you are not comfortable with. Always maintain safety! The author of this post takes no responsibility for any losses that occur. Use at your own risk.
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:56 AM   #57
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APP 180 is a granulated modified bitumen rated at 15-20 years depending on installation method. How are they installing it?
oh cool. they told me its only 12yrs. hah. they only said in proposal 'installed according to manufacturer's direction' i need to find out!
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:57 AM   #58
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If I am thinking what youa re asking, you are asking how to flash where the shingle meets the flat at a kind of ridge... Shingle first, modified wraps over the shingles 3-4" then a strip of metal is installed and stripped in.

Alternatively you can use the reverse strip in, where you installin the strin in first under the metal and then seal the field membrane to the metal, but the end result is the same. Always use metal at your flat roof edges.
thanks yea thats my question-how to connect the 2 different materials at the ridge top
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Old 08-31-2010, 11:00 AM   #59
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Why would you even consider installing a 12 year roof only to go through this hassel again in 12 years? It just doesn't make sense to me, and I lose alot of jobs to the 10-12 year roofers. I wouldn't do less than 15 for my own peace of mind. If it were my house I wouldn't do less than a 20 year.

As for the 12 years you are right... We normally install a double layer of base sheet which is what gives it the extra 3 years, a single layer of base with the granulated cap is a 12 year. Ask about them installing an APP 160 smooth mid ply before installing the granulated cap. This would up the system rating to 20 years.

I once had a potential customer say to me "They can put a man on the moon but can't make a flat roof last longer than 10 years." I said to him "We can make this flat roof last 20 years if you want, but you don't want to pay for it. Remember that putting a man on the moon costs billions of dollars, doubling the life of your roof only costs a few thousand more." When I asked him weeks later why he didn't hire us, he said someone was cheaper. LOL It was the 3rd time he got a new roof since he bought the building. To me, that's the definition of a moron.
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Sometimes the savings that comes from doing it yourself can be blown away with one mistake.

The information found in this post is not to be considered legal advice. All information should be considered relative, not specific. Never attempt any repairs you are not comfortable with. Always maintain safety! The author of this post takes no responsibility for any losses that occur. Use at your own risk.

Last edited by Grumpy; 08-31-2010 at 11:04 AM.
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Old 08-31-2010, 01:24 PM   #60
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Why would you even consider installing a 12 year roof only to go through this hassel again in 12 years? It just doesn't make sense to me, and I lose alot of jobs to the 10-12 year roofers. I wouldn't do less than 15 for my own peace of mind. If it were my house I wouldn't do less than a 20 year.

As for the 12 years you are right... We normally install a double layer of base sheet which is what gives it the extra 3 years, a single layer of base with the granulated cap is a 12 year. Ask about them installing an APP 160 smooth mid ply before installing the granulated cap. This would up the system rating to 20 years.

I once had a potential customer say to me "They can put a man on the moon but can't make a flat roof last longer than 10 years." I said to him "We can make this flat roof last 20 years if you want, but you don't want to pay for it. Remember that putting a man on the moon costs billions of dollars, doubling the life of your roof only costs a few thousand more." When I asked him weeks later why he didn't hire us, he said someone was cheaper. LOL It was the 3rd time he got a new roof since he bought the building. To me, that's the definition of a moron.
I'm gonna have to steal that quote.
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