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Old 08-23-2010, 06:52 AM   #16
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Calling the manufacturer for a certified roofer doe's not guarantee you a quality job will be done.

Look at manufacturer certified contractors, angies list, search engine searches, yards signs left by contractors in your area, ask friends/family, etc., and then take 'free' estimates until you find the contractor you feel most comfortable with.

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Old 08-23-2010, 07:43 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by OldNBroken View Post
So the prices you listed are for an 8 square job? Wow, what else is being done besides tearing off existing and installing a new roofing system? Or is this for the entire house?

The pictures he's showing us have snow on the ground. There hasn't been any snow in DC for at least a month or two.

There will certainly be some sheathing if not structural repairs necessary since water has been pouring in for at least months.

All of those prices sound pretty high. I've done some work in the DC area and disposal was pretty high compared to KY, but not enough to account for those prices. The PVC guy must be pretty proud of his product.

To the OP: Are you sure they're not proposing adding tapered insulation or re-sheathing or something else like that?
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Old 08-23-2010, 11:17 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slyfox View Post
Calling the manufacturer for a certified roofer doe's not guarantee you a quality job will be done.

Look at manufacturer certified contractors, angies list, search engine searches, yards signs left by contractors in your area, ask friends/family, etc., and then take 'free' estimates until you find the contractor you feel most comfortable with.
thanks for the input. unfortunately i dont know anyone friends with a roofing problem. so all i have to go on right now is google and all the estimates

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Originally Posted by seeyou View Post
The pictures he's showing us have snow on the ground. There hasn't been any snow in DC for at least a month or two.

There will certainly be some sheathing if not structural repairs necessary since water has been pouring in for at least months.

All of those prices sound pretty high. I've done some work in the DC area and disposal was pretty high compared to KY, but not enough to account for those prices. The PVC guy must be pretty proud of his product.

To the OP: Are you sure they're not proposing adding tapered insulation or re-sheathing or something else like that?
sorry my pics are not clear-the roof just started leaking like 3 weeks ago. we havent had snow since march. the pic is just from when the snow melted and i went up there to take a look. so hopefully the decking is still in good condition,etc. the estimates propose laying down 1/2" board insluation, but did not specify if its tapered. i think most roofers take average consumers as not very knowledgable.
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Old 08-23-2010, 12:05 PM   #19
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i think most roofers take average consumers as not very knowledgable.

Actually, very few consumers want very much roof knowledge. They just want it fixed.
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Old 08-23-2010, 12:43 PM   #20
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I can tell ya right now those gaping holes in two of those pictures are not going to be cured with 1/2" recovery board. When it's bad enough to look like that I pretty much guarantee that what you see is only a small fraction of the actual damage you will uncover when you tear it off.

No mention of deck replacement?

looks like you have good slope, no need for any taper system.
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Old 08-23-2010, 02:11 PM   #21
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the estimates say they will decide if decking needs replacing once they tear off the roof. but thats adding to the cost as well if they do new decking.

Quote:
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i think most roofers take average consumers as not very knowledgable.

Actually, very few consumers want very much roof knowledge. They just want it fixed.
haha true i do want to get it fixed asap
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Old 08-23-2010, 02:35 PM   #22
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This will give you a little bit of education... http://reliableamerican.us/articles/...questions.html

Your comparing an apple to an orange. There is more to the job than just the membrane being used.

What type of setup and staging? Who will do the best job to protect your property?
Tear off?
Is anyone including wood?
What type of insulation is being used if any?
What about edge metal?
What about new gutter?
What about system specification? 10 year? 15 year? 20 year? You see how the roof is constructed, according to manufacturer specification, will determine the longevity of the roof. For example comparing a 10 year modified bitumen to a 20 year pvc is ridiculious. Thats why you need a clear definition of the system rating.


I can tell you from experience based on those prices that someone is not doing the same as everyone else.


As for picking the right contractor... http://reliableamerican.us/articles/...contractor.htm
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The information found in this post is not to be considered legal advice. All information should be considered relative, not specific. Never attempt any repairs you are not comfortable with. Always maintain safety! The author of this post takes no responsibility for any losses that occur. Use at your own risk.
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Old 08-24-2010, 12:34 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy View Post
This will give you a little bit of education... http://reliableamerican.us/articles/...questions.html

Your comparing an apple to an orange. There is more to the job than just the membrane being used.

What type of setup and staging? Who will do the best job to protect your property?
Tear off?
Is anyone including wood?
What type of insulation is being used if any?
What about edge metal?
What about new gutter?
What about system specification? 10 year? 15 year? 20 year? You see how the roof is constructed, according to manufacturer specification, will determine the longevity of the roof. For example comparing a 10 year modified bitumen to a 20 year pvc is ridiculious. Thats why you need a clear definition of the system rating.


I can tell you from experience based on those prices that someone is not doing the same as everyone else.


As for picking the right contractor... http://reliableamerican.us/articles/...contractor.htm
thanks for the links-i actually read them already from reading around the boards here you brought up the exact point i was trying to make-i cant decide which roof is the best option, and 2 when i do i cant decide which contractor to go with!!! the similarities for the roofers include the flashing and insulation,etc. everyones recommending about the same stuff-aluminum flashing for drip edge, .5inch board insulation,etc. main different is the type they are proposing. based on the pic what do you think would be best? thanks!
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Old 08-24-2010, 06:01 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by federer View Post
thanks for the links-i actually read them already from reading around the boards here you brought up the exact point i was trying to make-i cant decide which roof is the best option, and 2 when i do i cant decide which contractor to go with!!! the similarities for the roofers include the flashing and insulation,etc. everyones recommending about the same stuff-aluminum flashing for drip edge, .5inch board insulation,etc. main different is the type they are proposing. based on the pic what do you think would be best? thanks!
All of the systems mentioned are fine systems if installed correctly. All roofers don't always do all systems. Of the three systems priced, I only do EPDM. The other two are not that widely used in this area.

As Grumpy mentioned, there must be some difference between the bids other than roof material. Some companies (like mine) price a worst case scenario when we see damage such as yours. Others, price the minimum and then change order you to death.

I'm not an advocate of getting 15 prices, but in this situation, I think you need to get at least one other price on each of the systems. That might help clear things up.
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Old 08-24-2010, 09:17 AM   #25
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The pictures are a little deceiving ,but have you considered a framed in gable roof system? As long as you have a "flat" roof ,you will always have problems. Can you take a more distant shot for a picture?
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Old 08-24-2010, 09:53 AM   #26
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Looks like the neighbor's house needs some new siding, too.
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Old 08-24-2010, 09:54 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by bernieb View Post
The pictures are a little deceiving ,but have you considered a framed in gable roof system? As long as you have a "flat" roof ,you will always have problems. Can you take a more distant shot for a picture?
As long as one has a roof that one lets wear out before one replaces it, one will always have problems, no matter the slope.

A properly applied low slope roof system will outlast a jackleg shingle job on a steep slope roof.
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Old 08-24-2010, 10:16 AM   #28
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Hi, don't use aluminum flashing with a torch applied roof!!!

What mill aluminum? .032 or .019? We typically will use the thicker .032 for flat roof flashings, although I suppose on residential single ply .019 would be acceptable. What paint finish? Baked on enamel 15 year color warranty or premium kynar coated 25 year color warranty?

What type of insulation are they recommending? 1/2" Polyisocyanurate or 1/2" fiberboard? The price difference is vast when comparing ISO to fiber. This actually also brings up another point, is the ceiling in that flat roof section insulated with fiberglass already? I'm assuming it is which I would then install 1/2" fiberboard... but that also brings up another question. What about ventilation?

Fiberboard has little R value, and isn't being installed for the R value, but as a seperator between the roof and the sheathing, which is necessary. Therefore ventilation is required.

What about system ratings? How is the modified goingt o be installed fiberboard with a base sheet and a smoot black membrane? This is a 10 year roof. Add a granulated over that and you now have a 20 year roof. See my point?

PVC or EPDM what mil? .45, .60, .80? How is it installed, mechanically attached or fully adhered? A .45 mechanically attached is a 15 year roof while a .60 or thicker fully adhered is a 20 year roof. .90 EPDM fully adhered and double seamed is a 30 year roof.


Any roof would suffice to be honest. Typically on a residential like this we would isntall a granulated modified bitumen to match the shingles. I would install no less than a 15 year rated roof, never a 10 or 12, and preferrably a 20 year rated roof if the budget allows. The only reason in this situation I opt for the modifiued is the color match. If it's completely not visible from the ground, any membrane will be fine. I personally prefer the single ply. If you want reflectivity go with PVC.
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Old 08-24-2010, 11:23 AM   #29
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Does the flat roof have any penetrations like vent pipes and stuff?

If not then why not go with the self adhered mod bit like the Certainteed Flintastic which is granulated and comes in different colors.
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Old 08-24-2010, 01:28 PM   #30
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Quote:
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All of the systems mentioned are fine systems if installed correctly. All roofers don't always do all systems. Of the three systems priced, I only do EPDM. The other two are not that widely used in this area.

As Grumpy mentioned, there must be some difference between the bids other than roof material. Some companies (like mine) price a worst case scenario when we see damage such as yours. Others, price the minimum and then change order you to death.

I'm not an advocate of getting 15 prices, but in this situation, I think you need to get at least one other price on each of the systems. That might help clear things up.
thanks for the input. i agree. my problem then is i dont know who to trust so the installation is done properly. i think i may go with one that my insurance suggests-thats a good idea right? yea i dont want to keep getting estimates but you make a good point. that way i can do a comparison

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